Duplicolor paint job

[LGAFF]

My 140K mile 90 has some pretty rough paint. the back bumper had a 1" wide, deep scratch from the lic plate opening to the bottom, I was surprised at how well it turned out.....I have not even cleared, color sanded, or buffed it...obviously with 20+ year old paint there is a color match challenge, but looks pretty damn good for $30 paint job..paint is smooth and glossy

Makes me think about painting the car myself some day....

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Lee, you could do the whole thing with about 45 cans. JUST JOKING!!!!!

Looks like a good touchup. Sounds like you're enjoying the 90 more than the 92 these days. Congrats on the motor build!!

[rhipsher]

Can spray paint is good for painting bed frames or work benches but painting a car with it? No way. It will look terrible. I used high heat Duplicon engine paint on the 302 4V in my 68 mustang after rebuilding it and it looks great for a few years but after that it starts fading. For engines powder coating is the only way to go. For exterior paint leave it to the professionals. Most body and paint shops will paint one section at a time if you can't afford to have the whole car at once.

[LGAFF]

Paint really depends on the prep and amount of wet sanding you are willing to do.....you can roller a car if you are willing to wetsand enough

[rhipsher]

You can give it a shot Lee and see how you like it. If it looks much better than what you have now then it's the a win win.

[LGAFF]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-1q8...eature=related

[Paul Workman]

I have had excellent luck with the Langka kit. Some will say it doesn't work, or have bad things to say about it, but it's all in the preparation, plus a little nuance (procedure available upon request).

For example, some meat-head with a buffer burned the paint clear through to the primer along a line at the edge of the hood above the driver side wiper, and again along the vertical edge next to the door.

A little touch up paint from GM, and the Langka kit and you tell me where the burn was!



I'm just sayin...

P.

[DaveK]

I tried the langka kit. Had no luck with the de-blobbing though. Rubbed and rubbed and rubbed (minds out of the gutter please ladies ) but the blobs remained... blobs.

Still have another kit, but it didn't seem worth trying further.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by DaveK

I tried the langka kit. Had no luck with the de-blobbing though. Rubbed and rubbed and rubbed (minds out of the gutter please ladies ) but the blobs remained... blobs.

Still have another kit, but it didn't seem worth trying further.

The secret to success is drying time, and it varies with ambient temperature and humidity. Trial and error on some obscure place is how I determine the drying/curing time for the blob.

At about 70 degrees F and humidity around 50%, my touch-up paint was "ready" at about 20-30 minutes drying time. Less time results in a divot (easy to fix). But, too much drying time, and you get what you experienced.

But, like I said, ambient conditions makes all the difference. In my case I got lots of experience with the kit after I repaired a couple hundred chips in my black LT1 Vette as result of getting caught in a hail storm. I figured it would be good enough till I could afford to repaint the car. However, after getting the knack of the drying/curing time down, there was no way to tell where it had been repaired! Oh...I should mention that a Dawn pre-treatment or clay barring to remove all wax/polish is essential too.

P.