How to remove LCD connector from IP circuit board

[ghlkal]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

Good job!

Thanks! Yes, the calibration worked well. It looks like about 220K ohms will do the trick for me. I don't care if the tach is dead-on, but 70% error was weird. I need to learn how to drive again with the tach - before I was hitting 7K easily on the tach (which was really something less than 4K on the motor).

BTW, I measured resistance across pins 4 and 10 and got about 390K ohms. Since you have several IP's laying around - if any are good - what value do you get there?

Now, I need to get up the courage to pull the IP out again ... I wonder what code it will throw this time

[ghlkal]

Originally Posted by DaveK

Does anyone happen to have pictures of what's behind the instrument panel? Just wondering what kind of room there is, volume etc.

Dave, you can't see behind the IP frame very well ...



Through the openings you can see a few large bundles. When I pull the IP off again, I'll try to look behind the frame and see what I can see.

[DaveK]

Thanks Gary, any info would be useful.

Dave

[ghlkal]

Originally Posted by DaveK

Thanks Gary, any info would be useful.

Dave, the quantitative answer is, "not much."

I can't see behind the "frame," but I'm sure you could push a good size bundle of wires back there with the others. I don't think there's enough room to hide any electronic box (eg, alarm, radar detector, etc).

Not much help, I know.

[scottfab]

I guess I would just have used a trim pot and left it that way.
http://www.bourns.com/ProductLine.as...litary_quality

These are typically multi-turn pots (as many as 25) with a small profile.
You don't need no stinking precision. Just a pot that gets to the value you want and stays there. Once set these don't wonder about. I worked with them for years on military and other equipment.

As for the car not starting with the air bag fuse out,
that's good to know. Thanks for sharing.

[ghlkal]

Originally Posted by scottfab

I guess I would just have used a trim pot and left it that way.

You're right, scottfab, this would be a better solution. I did replace the pot with 220K worth of resistors. I used one 220K plus three 1K ohm resistors in series. Because they are +- 5%, the 223K stated value was actually 220K. The tach works great now!

Here’s the thread containing Paul’s instructions for fixing the tach (for future reference)
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=17728

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by ghlkal

You're right, scottfab, this would be a better solution. I did replace the pot with 220K worth of resistors. I used one 220K plus three 1K ohm resistors in series. Because they are +- 5%, the 223K stated value was actually 220K. The tach works great now!

Here’s the thread containing Paul’s instructions for fixing the tach (for future reference)
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=17728

That's a great procedure. Looks comprehensive. The only thing I'd do different would be to use a trim pot and make it permanent. I would add it's not necessary to use precision resistors only that the value come out right. You can do that even with 5% carbon composite resistors. You do have to measure each on in a box to get one close enough Or just use a trim pot (10 or 20 turn) and leave it. One would have to probably live with it dangling down far enough to adjust it though. It's one failure I've not experience on mine. (yet)