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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Between Texas & Calif
Posts: 120
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Okay, I am the guy that when I wax a car I always have a great deal of clean up around the logos and lettering. Is there a secret of not getting wax where it belongs and not? Also what works best of getting wax off of lamo lens and molding?
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#2 | |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,418
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I always use a wax that goes on clear and does not haze up. Solves your problems for me. Good luck. Try having your problem on a BLACK car... ![]()
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95 ZR-1 BLK/Gry #392 LT5 Reg# 868 *RIP* ZR1NET Founding Mem #155 |
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#3 |
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: SoCal
Posts: 407
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Taping... at least thats the way I go, that and just using a steady hand in tight areas. A few minutes with blue or green masking tape BEFORE you start working will save you an hour or more of cleanup later.
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 74
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I know this is an older post, but I'm new but do have a solution to this problem. I am also a motorcycle rider and I use a product on it called "Original Bike Spirits- Roadside Detailer" I don't think I have used water to wash my bike in several months. I have been using it long enough on bikes to know that it's not going to hurt any plastic or paint. The PO of my car did a quick wax job on it before I bought it and had tons of wax stuck in the cracks. I used a micro fiber rag and a little of my Bike Spirits and it made short work of the leftover wax. I also used it on my 1991 wheels to clean between the slots.
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 107
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Use a detailing toothbrush type with microfiber cloth, the brush reaches up close then wipe w cloth
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,170
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Been using one of these for years works great. Around emblems dash and any other area I can reach with it. Sonic Scrubber
http://compare.ebay.com/like/1907441...Types&var=sbar
__________________
Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold |
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Eastern Missouri
Posts: 773
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My car had wax all over the center molding strip when I got it. Three applications of Mother's Back to Black got 95% of it off. Thinkin the next time I do it should get the rest. I waxed the car yesterday with Meguiars Poly and I taped off the trim and emblems first with blue painters tape. The Meguiars seemed to not fill the body gaps with white stuff as bad as most others I have used....
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#8 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 529
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Old post but a good quality paint brush works for me.
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Clayton, North Carolina
Posts: 1,133
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I tried the brush tricks for many years, but that was time consuming. I found an easier solution.
Once you've cleared the car cracks, and logo's of the wax, use a synthetic wax, like Mequiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax® 2.0. $20 and it is better than wax and won't yellow. On the engine use a quality paint cleaner and follow with a polishing coat. Do not use wax to seal it. Let it go with just the polish. Same for the wheels. |
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Texas
Posts: 529
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The new synthetic waxes are awesome thats for sure, I also use NXT good stuff.
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