![]() |
#11 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Jacksonville, FL USA
Posts: 4,645
|
![]()
I bought the one from Jeggs and as far as I'm concerned it works just fine.
I've had it about two yrs now and it still works just fine. It obviously doesn't work as fast as one that could be hooked up to shop air, but in your driveway it works just fine. I figure about max 1/2 an hr to get most of the oil out of an LT5. I say most because the legend scale on the container is a decal and I'm not sure how precise it is. When it's done I estimate it sucked up between 8 & 9 qts of old oil. One thing with this unit is it works best if the oil is at normal operating temp. On cold oil the container will start to collapse. To counter act the fact that it may not be getting all of the old oil out, not counting the cooler, I shortened my change intervals....just to be on the safe side. JMHO, if I owned a home with a garage I proly wouldn't have much use for this type of tool. Stands & a good hyd jack and up she goes for winter / spring get ready maintenance protocols. I rent space in a garage which has rules against mechanical work on your vehicle so this made sense for me to buy. ![]() Tom
__________________
1990 ZR-1, Black/grey, #2233, stock. ZR-1 Net Reg Founding Member #316 & NCM member |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,096
|
![]()
Agreed if you have to pull filter or do other work but on z since filter is on top it's nice.
On the z though I'm really liking mityvak. The first time I used it, it was a cluster **** as Tom knows but when you get the system down it's a piece of cake. I think I can do my oil change in 15-20 mins max. I also don't like working under car when I'm alone even with floor jacks. Accidents occur and human error as well. I know it's odd but I know a guy who died. Yes, he didn't use proper technique but many times people use china jacks or floor jacks and put them under car hastily. I would like some floor ramps. Do rhinos get job done or they makeshift? I like those race ramps but they are pricey. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 | |
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Cedar Hill, Texas
Posts: 154
|
![]() Quote:
![]()
__________________
[B][U]---SOLD BUT NOT FORGOTTEN---[/U][/B] [SIZE="1"][SIZE="2"]1992 ZR-1 #483 [COLOR="DarkRed"]Dark Red Metallic[/COLOR] [U][B]Mods[/B][/U] -Jeal headers -Stock exhaust with X-pipe -4.30 Gears -Corey Henderson tune -375 RWHP[/SIZE][/SIZE] |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,096
|
![]()
It's pretty easy. My main issue was I thought the liters went up by 1 at each "rib" since the first rib was 1 liter. However that was because of the base, the next 1 liter increment is between ribs and so on all the way on the cylinder. I therefore thought I overfilled but I did not but its sometimes hard to tell on the LT-5's dipstick as it reads funny (compared to other dipsticks)
You will see, the 9L mark at the top. That is your goal. 1 liter = 1.05668821 Quarts so if you get to that 9L line, you need to put in 8.5 Quarts. Give me a ring, and I'll walk you through it. They key is to get a full stream of oil in the tube as opposed to alot of air, the process will go alot quicker. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
![]() Join Date: May 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 307
|
![]()
FYI: 9 liters = 9.5 quarts
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 |
![]() Join Date: May 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 1,096
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 | |
![]() Join Date: May 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 307
|
![]() Quote:
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|