Rear Spring Issues Pt 2

[32valvZ]

Ok, I replaced my rear spring with a 12,000 mile unit. I love the increase pressure from the 39.9 N/mm spring and poly bushings.

What I dont understand is why the car is still a 1/2" lower on the driver side. I set the original bolts with the castle nuts lined up with the cotter pin holes just like factory.

So what gives here. The replacement spring looks to be in excellent condition and was much firmer when installing than the original. I could even see the arc of the spring was greater than the one I took out.

[flyin ryan]

Why don't you crank it up on the one side & drill a new hole for the cotter pin, just to see? Won't cost you anything to try . I know fibreglass springs are more of an art than a science, all springs actually to some degree.

[Kb7tif]

Originally Posted by 32valvZ

Ok, I replaced my rear spring with a 12,000 mile unit. I love the increase pressure from the 39.9 N/mm spring and poly bushings.

What I dont understand is why the car is still a 1/2" lower on the driver side. I set the original bolts with the castle nuts lined up with the cotter pin holes just like factory.

So what gives here. The replacement spring looks to be in excellent condition and was much firmer when installing than the original. I could even see the arc of the spring was greater than the one I took out.

Thats a nice choice for replacement. Does the firmness match the front well.
Im going to do the same. 1/2 " not a big deal, adjust a bolt.

[lbszr]

Originally Posted by 32valvZ

Ok, I replaced my rear spring with a 12,000 mile unit. I love the increase pressure from the 39.9 N/mm spring and poly bushings.

What I dont understand is why the car is still a 1/2" lower on the driver side. I set the original bolts with the castle nuts lined up with the cotter pin holes just like factory.

So what gives here. The replacement spring looks to be in excellent condition and was much firmer when installing than the original. I could even see the arc of the spring was greater than the one I took out.

I've got about 1/2 inch lower on dr side also but it handles really good with recent alignment (but just looked for any delamination because your posts are makeing me paranoid and getting ready to take it to track and would not like it to snap). A theory I've been thinking about for this winter, is a shop with scales on all four with torsion bars disconnected would show were the problem is. I'm cheap though soooo.......another theory is disconnect bars, jack front-in-center point and see if it leans, and then jack rear and check same because I think the front spring is the problem on mine. Torsion bars might need adjusted also.

[32valvZ]

Originally Posted by flyin ryan

Why don't you crank it up on the one side & drill a new hole for the cotter pin, just to see? Won't cost you anything to try . I know fibreglass springs are more of an art than a science, all springs actually to some degree.

I'm gonna play with it some today and see if I can get it leveled out. I have some waxed locking nuts, so I wont need to drill another hole.

[32valvZ]

Originally Posted by Kb7tif

Thats a nice choice for replacement. Does the firmness match the front well.
Im going to do the same. 1/2 " not a big deal, adjust a bolt.

The car seems to handle nicely. On the highway when at speed, where the road dipped, my B&B was kissing the asphalt and throwing sparks I'm not sure why the original 49k mile spring was so soft........