Clutch Slave/Master Cylinder

[LGAFF]

Well been through hell and back with the Cylinder slave and clutch master cylinder. For the newby this is not an easy job.....The clutch master cylinder must be released from the clutch pedal, so the drivers side kick panel must be removed, and then a deep dive inside to find it.

The Clutch slave hose is a PITA to remove as it is bolted to the firewall with a 7MM screw. Biggest pain in the AZZ was the slave cylinder.....the aftermarket one I used is cast so it is much larger than the OEM. I had to fight it to get it in the right position, it is blocked by part of the trans, and CATs make putting the nuts on the screws a pain....especially on your back. I had to grind down part of the body so I could get a socket on the nut.

Needless to say, the first time I positioned the slave cylinder, the rod slipped off the seat and bent...so I had to transfer the OE.

The aftermarket one from Rock Auto appears to be crap....so I anticipate it will not last long. If you can find a smaller one similiar to OE it would be much better to work with....

[Sgreg]

The aftermarket one from Rock Auto appears to be crap....so I anticipate it will not last long. If you can find a smaller one similiar to OE it would be much better to work with....[/quote]

If anyone needs one of the AC Delco original slaves, I have one to sell. They are not a bargain but I will sell mine for what I paid, $149. Lee is right about the tight spaces.

And people have been praising the aftermarket versions. Helps to use a set of longer studs where it mounts, and then I have never installed one with Factory cats, but it is a tight fit in general.

[LGAFF]

Longer studs might be a plus, but then again it might make it impossible to fit in........I just took the one off my 92 with headers it was easy....

Should the Clutch slave be a bitch to hold down to bolt it on?

[Kb7tif]

Its normal for some pressure. Have you added fluid yet. These should bleed out quite easily. You Shoulnt Have to pump the $%^* out of these Either. Pm me. Partsladi has gm masters for pry less then rock auto.

[LGAFF]

Its on the car, and fluid in....just surprised the pressure needed to put it on dry.....although the angle is a tough one.

[rhipsher]

Theres a cylinder that sticks out of the transmission that blocks the slave from coming straight out so I've found it easier to unscrew the two studs from the bell housing which is probably why they made them removable then it comes out easy. But you will need an extension and a swivel. Also Lee reverse bleeding is much better than having to pump pump and pump till the preasure builds back up. Just take an automotive cerenge with a hose that will fit snug on the bleed screw. Fill the cerenge up with clutch fluid. Open the bleed screw and pump the fluid in. Have a buddy watch as the master cylinder resevour as it starts to fill . And when there are no more air bubbles coming up though the master then fill it up the rest of the way and your done. It takes maybe 5 minutes and your done.

[Pete]

Lee,you should've called me,what i did was remove the new seals from the Rock Auto slave and installed them in the OE slave no more leaks and works great.

Also FWIW the Rock Auto cast slave has a steel piston in it the OE is aluminum i would think the steel piece would get hotter.

Pete

[Kb7tif]

Figures I open my mouth about clutch master slave, and i will be dammed i had a spongy peddle for the first half of my cruise today. Air came out after a while, checked the master, out. that will do it.
I have pulled the trans twice, pulled the plenum,seats ect. Never thought to check the master.

[bldavis11]

Lee,

Which master and clutch from Rock Auto did you go with? They list multiple manufacturers, including AC Delco. I'm about to drop the money on this as well.

Ben