Dreaded no start

[Vetman]

After 12 years, two trips to NCM from WA state, one to Carlisle, PA, one to Chicago to have Marc replace injectors etc, at 90,000 miles my 1990 Z has blessed me with that ?no start?. The battery is new, lights are bright and instrument lights stay bright when I turn the key to start, no click, nothing. I assume the clutch switch has gone bad. If you all agree, where is this switch located? Can I just bypass it?

[tccrab]

It's about half way up the clutch pedal.
Here's a Youtube video.
https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...8&action=click
It's a bit of a chore to get to, removing the drivers seat makes the job a little easier.
Be forewarned, at 90k miles you might be dealing with a little more than a bad switch, you might be replacing the starter itself.

Crabs

[Thomas ZR-1]

What about worn contacts on the key for the VATS? The integrated key resistance needs contact to the system into the ignition switch. The anit-theft device awaits the fitting signal...if not: no start, no click...nothing. Check it again with your spare key. Maybe the contacts on the key bit are a little higher coming out from the surface.

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Often times on C-4's, owners encountered the No-Start and we would see that there were two sets of floormats, which interfered with a full clutch depression.
Simple, but saw it over a dozen times.

Next step is the VATS. Clean the key; try again, then as Thomas correctly suggested try another key. I have a new tested spare secreted within the car just for such fun days.

The FSM details a very correct diagnosis procedure.

I would rule out the simple things first, but the no dim on turn to start, APPEARS to point to VATS or Clutch Switch, however I would also confirm that there is no deflection , even a minor one of the voltage needle as the key is turned.

Once you see the small gauge of the white wires from the ignition switch running down the column to the module you will understand how easily they can be pinched and fail to accurately convey the needed resistance value.

Bypassing the clutch switch to TEST would then be the next step, although I am not an advocate of permanent bypass. While you or I may never forget to depress the clutch and ensure you are in neutral out of habit, some one else who might move the car may not have the same religion, so if it tests bad, replacing it is the best path. The 90-92 years are very prone to such failures.

If the switch bypass fails, then trace that purple wire as best you can to make sure it is not pinched somewhere.

If still a no go, search for a starter and plan on the plenum pull, but first as said earlier review and perform the diag procedure in the manual.

Keep us posted on your progress.


Marty

[Vetman]

I assume the clutch switch is the same for ZR 1 as it is for L-98?s?

[Thomas ZR-1]

Yes that`s correct...and same to LT1

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Yes, same replacement switch for 90-96 Corvettes.

Marty

[mlipmd]

Is this a continuing problem, ie, it has failed to start since the first time it happened, or is it intermittent or only happens when the engine is hot?

[Vetman]

First time. Very cold when I tried.

[Vetman]

I?m out of town currently. Will try my second key whenI return.