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#1 |
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 305
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I am probably splitting hairs on this one but I am also posting some pictures to verify. I am rebuilding the fuel rails tomorrow, including a new fuel pressure regulator. I have noticed in some owner?s photos that show the rails, the pipes seem to be fully seated against the rail. As you will see from my photos, my pipes are not fully flush against the rail.
I know the O rings are what handle the sealing but this seems like the rails have been tweaked during removal at some point if the flange is not flush against the rail. I have had these off before but I remember the first time I pulled them years ago they were like this before I ever touched them. Figured it would not hurt to double check with the group. Last edited by 1991 Corvette ZR-1; 02-23-2024 at 11:34 PM. |
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#2 |
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 305
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Wondering if someone can help me see what I am missing. I got a fuel rail O ring rebuild kit from Jerry?s but only the holes on the pressure regulator appear big enough to accept the replacement O rings? They came in a set of 9.
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#3 |
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 305
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So I am a bit of a stopping point because I do not want to force anything and damage parts. The FSM states to remove left fuel rail retainer screw and retainer THEN remove left fuel rail. Well, this thing is on here. It feels like there is something inside the rail holding the pipes in. According to the diagram, there are O rings inside. What am I missing. I have applied a decent amount of pulling force and it is not budging.
Anyone who has done this, what the hell am I missing? |
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#4 |
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 305
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Posting pictures for reference on O ring size. Not sure what is holding this together still with retainer and screw out of the way.
Last edited by 1991 Corvette ZR-1; 02-23-2024 at 11:34 PM. |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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On my experience with carburetors, the tubes joining the bowls just float in the ends on the o-ring they dont press tightly into both sides. In fact, if you would push them in all the way on one side they would typically roll the oring and not seat..... I would say as long as the oring is seated inside the rail you are ok... I have heard from some people there is some trial and error... but I think generally you want to make sure you are letting the o-ring slide in and seat naturally and not forcing it in ...
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 |
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#6 | |
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 305
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Last edited by 1991 Corvette ZR-1; 02-23-2024 at 11:34 PM. |
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#7 |
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 305
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Picture of the carnage. I guess I just had to sweet talk it while it came apart.
Last edited by 1991 Corvette ZR-1; 02-23-2024 at 11:34 PM. |
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#8 |
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 305
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I got all bent out of shape on not hurting anything taking the rails apart but I got it all rebuilt. I did not think that there was actually a recess further in the fuel rails for the larger O rings to be pressed into but trust in the FSM. FSM says to reconnect negative bat cable and key on twice and check for leaks. I think I did it four times out of paranoia. Went for a test drive and the idle seems to have improved with the new regulator and it looks pretty nice. Guess I can only stall on doing the clutch job for so long?
Last edited by 1991 Corvette ZR-1; 02-23-2024 at 11:34 PM. |
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