Seatbelt and infl res light

[mlipmd]

In my '90 ZR-1 - Months ago when I got my car I had these lights on and I have checked the codes and both 16 and 26 showed up so I cleaned the sensor/frame contacts on both sides, painted them again for insulation, and then cleared both codes and it lasted for a few months. Then the lights came on again, this time only with code 26 - driver's side impact sensor electrical contact fault. So I cleaned and sanded it again, got the code to clear, and in a week it came back. This time the code won't clear for more than a few min, then it returns. I have read that this may also be due to bad/dirty contacts in the yellow connector for the air bag, located in the left side of the driver's footwell. I know where it is and have seen it, but, my question is, how sensitive is this to being taken apart and put back together, should the battery be disconnected when you do this, is there anything special in doing this to avoid the airbag from being set off? I really don't want a disaster inside my car in an effort to clear the warning lights and code. I know having it is harmless, just annoying because it's not right. Thanks.

[sleazy rider]

well, after a 6 month rest i got the 91 started and got a 'infl rest' light on. guess i will be reading up on how to correct it.

[max76]

Originally Posted by mlipmd

In my '90 ZR-1 - Months ago when I got my car I had these lights on and I have checked the codes and both 16 and 26 showed up so I cleaned the sensor/frame contacts on both sides, painted them again for insulation, and then cleared both codes and it lasted for a few months. Then the lights came on again, this time only with code 26 - driver's side impact sensor electrical contact fault. So I cleaned and sanded it again, got the code to clear, and in a week it came back. This time the code won't clear for more than a few min, then it returns. I have read that this may also be due to bad/dirty contacts in the yellow connector for the air bag, located in the left side of the driver's footwell. I know where it is and have seen it, but, my question is, how sensitive is this to being taken apart and put back together, should the battery be disconnected when you do this, is there anything special in doing this to avoid the airbag from being set off? I really don't want a disaster inside my car in an effort to clear the warning lights and code. I know having it is harmless, just annoying because it's not right. Thanks.

if i'll be in you for the first thingh i'll disconnect the battery and i'll wait some minute before put my hands on yellow connector...i already disassemble the airbag on the steering wheel and i haven't any problem...After that clean the connection on the yellow connector and close all...clear the code and cross your fingers

[mlipmd]

OK, so just for ? safety's sake, I disconnected the battery for about a half hour, then opened up and looked at the yellow connector in the driver's footwell and it was as clean as can be. No dirt, corrosion, anything, inside. So I put it back together and took it apart again a few times to freshen up the contacts, and got it all back together. Cleared the code again (3 sec off, 3 on, you know the drill), and the lights are now out. We'll see how long that lasts. What a PIA to get to those sensors on the frame rail and I can't believe there's any corrosion or rust in there after only a few weeks after all the cleaning up I did.

[Corvette95]

Bad SRS sensor? Also the 90 wiring was a weak point, changes in 91. Probably would do good to have a scanner with live data display and record. See the event that caused the light..loss of communication (voltage on a 90) and the sensors and connectors have very specific ohm tolerances- all fairly quick test other than battery/fender r/i . Could even be the DERM? Keep up posted. (Tech1 oem scan tool (OBD1) s your best friend - may want to invest)

[GOLDCYLON]

The inf rest light is an infamous on the MY90 after doing everything you listed it took me 5 try's to clear out the code from the ALDL port using a Tech1A.

When you reattached the sensor you said you painted but mentioned no dylectric grease being used to help with contact. That maybe the issue

[garyhugo]

Had same problem with my 90 and replaced LF sensor with used one 10 years ago and still works fine.

[mlipmd]

Dielectric grease is actually an insulator, not a conductor. It is basically a silicone grease and is used as a moisture barrier to protect moisture intrusion into connectors and should not be applied to the mating surfaces themselves. There are a variety of conductive greases you can use for this, but not "dielectric" grease. I did apply a fair amount of this around the base of the sensor to try and keep water and moisture out of that area and on the bolts holding the sensor to the frame rail. I doubt the sensor itself is bad, these things hardly ever, if at all, fail.
And clearing out the codes can be a PIA. You have to get the timing on/off very accurate or you have to keep trying until you get it right. So much easier in the C5.

[Livin' in the 80's]

Watching. I am having he same issue but it started after I hit a curb and the airbag never deployed-which is good. Got the 26 code and cleaned the right sensor mating surface. Cleared the code manually with grounding and ungrounding the k port. Code is cleared and INF REST light shuts off after you start it. Do the sensors get ruined if they are jarred from hitting a pot hole or curb? Are the sensors available still if I were to need one? I haven't test driven it yet because it just snowed here.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by Livin' in the 80's

Watching. Are the sensors available still if I were to need one? I haven't test driven it yet because it just snowed here.

No they are not. Your only option is to get them from a parted MY90. The good news is while these are MY only year parts this is not ZR-1 specific.