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#1 |
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Cornwall UK
Posts: 7
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I think I have read every word on here (and elsewhere) regarding the dreaded no start. I have done all the corrections - purple wire, relay, direct wire from solenoid to be touched to battery positive- and it still won't start as soon as it gets hot. The starter throws when hot but does not crank. I had the starter motor rebuilt last year and it was OK for a while. I am in UK so am short of good resources.
It ALWAYS cranks strongly and starts when COLD, even after standing for two weeks so battery is fine (and only a year old). When hot I can usually get it to crank weakly (enough to start) by using jumper leads. My battery has 60AH and 550CCA. The motor is out again and back with the starter company who I trust as experts. They confirm my view that the fault must be with the starter but they say that they cannot fault it on any test (as should be the case as it's barely done any work). They have sent it for a second opinion. My question is - can anybody indicate what to look at in the starter itself so that I can pass this knowledge on.( or indeed any new suggestions) This is ruining my enjoyment of this fine car. |
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 104
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If you read every word I guess you read my recent saga. Hopefully you've also been stranded within walking distance of pubs ..
Anyhow, the best info I found was from this article: http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20W...%20Probems.pdf He explains at the end of the article why a no-start condition could be caused by the starter itself: "OE solenoid coils that I have seen are wound unevenly. The turns of wire cross over each other. This creates pressure points that might break down the shellac insulation coating on the wires and lead to a short circuit between turns. The insulating coating is further stressed by the oven like environment that the starter lives in. This could cause a silent no start condition." I just replaced mine with a part # matching Remy rebuilt unit. So far so good. -Stephen |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Clayton, North Carolina
Posts: 1,133
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Jerry’s sells a totally refurbished starter, not one that was repaired.
Also check the leads connections at the starter. They tend to deteriorate under the heat and age. Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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"Rebuilding" a starter: service actions are confined to electrical connections, etc., and bearings/bendix. As pointed out ^^^^ the windings of the solenoid are not usually included in a starter rebuild "kit".
If your purple wire voltage is normal when cranking, and the connection to the starter is clean and not shorted, and the solenoid actuated contacts are in good condition, its time to swap out the starter, OR change out the solenoid coil...if that is even possible [that I don't know]. Give Jerry's Gaskets a try, if a local parts store doesn't carry the Denso starter (these starters are installed in many Japanese cars and many domestics as well: not uncommon to find in better parts outlets, you may find). |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,884
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OP - if your starter is actually in a shop ask that they check the solenoid coil. A 'denso coil should be an easy find for a professional shop.
I'd think these are potential coil replacements WAI 66-82456 or maybe an Accurate 7-1113 OR 6790-9507 A shop should be able to confirm ***I don't know that you could rule out just a battery. 550CCA. I'm quite sure a local fellow close by had a similar issue 'always' when shut down @ temp. Battery I'm real sure fixed him. 650CCA or better maybe fix. Last edited by WVZR-1; 03-12-2019 at 12:20 PM. |
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#6 |
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Cornwall UK
Posts: 7
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Thanks for help. No, I wasn't anywhere near a pub! Saved by a jump from a trucker. Mine is not like any of the Starter Diagnosis write up. When hot it tries to start but sounds just like the battery is flat - but it's not. Checked and double checked battery, earth, and solenoid positive connections. Will make suggestions to motor shop.
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#7 |
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Sparks, NV
Posts: 2,843
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#8 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: NYC
Posts: 30
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Starter in ZR1s lives in a HOT environment
Have the starter heated by a blow drier while it's out of the car You'll find out if it is windings or starter selenoid ....etc |
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#9 | |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,884
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I don't know if a 'hair blow' dryer would accomplish the needed 'heat soak' but I'd think a commercial 'heat gun' I'm sure would. ***You also need to consider 'on the bench' can't possibly duplicate an 'in car' experience! Last edited by WVZR-1; 03-13-2019 at 10:34 AM. |
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#10 |
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Cornwall UK
Posts: 7
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Well I got my starter back and fitted. It is far stronger sounding and faster than the previous "rebuilt" one and so far is starting hot no problem. The supplier is avoiding giving details beyond "we completely rebuilt it again with new parts". I'm afraid I think that they just did a lousy job, or used lousy components at the first rebuild.
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