06-17-2018 | #1 |
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Norway
Posts: 345
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Headlight motors keep going after switch off
After we had the battery disconnected the headlight motors now keeps going for 3-5 seconds after switching the lights off, even if only the park lights were on.
How do we fix this? I assume it's a matter of re-setting something, but not sure how. Sent from my SM-G955F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app
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Roy Martin 1994 ZR-1 #112 Admiral Blue/Black Dana 4:10 Aluminum flywheel Corsa exhaust Watson headers Haibeck chip 470 HP/399 RWHP 1991 ZR-1 #400 White/Red (SOLD) Dana 4:10 Powder coated engine Haibeck performance chip Borla exhaust |
06-17-2018 | #2 |
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Ypsilanti, MI
Posts: 116
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Re: Headlight motors keep going after switch off
Sounds like the headlight motor bushings. It is a somewhat common C4 ailment. I used this YouTube video to walk me through the repair process. Some people replace the gears as well (sometimes with brass parts) but chances are you will only need the bushings.
https://youtu.be/sPj1kJm4AnU Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry
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1991 ZR-1 #1438 Black/Black & Red |
06-17-2018 | #3 |
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 899
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Re: Headlight motors keep going after switch off
I did it it two weeks ago. Remove assembly from hood and do it on the bench. Just get the 6 round plugs to begin. If you need gears you will know when you open it and clean it. Then it will be all good for another 27 years!
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07-15-2018 | #4 |
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 363
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Re: Headlight motors keep going after switch off
I just completed replacing the 3 Delrin Bushings on my '94 passenger side headlight. I kept hearing the same knocking noise which lasted about 20 seconds after I switched the parking lights off (which I've modified to LEDs).
Apparently, the early 90s models headlamp motor assemblies are slightly different than the '94. But in any case, I found a combination of three sites helpful - and even then there were a few differences from reality. Each has a few tips and tricks to apply. This one is a '92 C4 and has four parts, but some good suggestions throughout... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKxs7oDV334&t=3s This is a text procedure (no video), though the photos are small... http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...-installation/ This one was posted by KPW... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sPj1...ature=youtu.be As always on these projects, it helps to take your own photos of the assembly at different angles, before and during the disassembly. Then when reassembling and the video's angle isn't helping, one can refer to your own photo. I ran into a few differences/snags - the first one self-induced. 1. After loosening the two screws which held the motor & worm screw in, I simply could not work the plastic gear out of the housing. So I made the error of removing the screws. This is what they tell you not to do... but ya gotta love adventure... The good news was that the plastic gear came right out. The bad news was that the electric motor brushes and springs popped out of their slots. After I cleaned the plastic gear of all the granulated Delrin Bushing remnants, inspected the gear (it was in perfect shape), replaced the three bushings, reassembled and lubed the gear with White Lithium Grease, I was ready to put it all back together. After putting the plastic gear back into the housing, the challenge was how to hold the brushes against the springs while inserting the motor shaft back in. A bent wire and a clipped/bent paper clip held on each side by a vise grips against the housing worked well. After inserting the shaft and worm gear almost completely down (maybe had 1/8" or .5cm showing - just not pinching the wire or clip), it was easy to remove the vise grip, push the clip/wire in slightly and twist it approx. 180 degrees to free it from the motor's brush wire, then pull it out. (See pic) 2. The other difference was instead of hammering the roll pin back into the shaft, a large vise grips turned upside down worked perfectly. Make sure the pin and the hole in the gear shaft are aligned by looking down the shaft hole. I also covered the top of the metal shaft block with a small cloth to keep from marring it. Then, gently use the vise grips to push the pin back into place. (See pic of pin punched out of shaft - ready for pressing into block.) Anyway, I hope yours goes together more easily than mine did. It works perfectly now.
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'94 ZR1 LT5 - Dark Red Metallic '79 L82 4-speeds of fun '96 LT1 Borla, H-pipe, TB, CAI (Sold) "An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered." -- G.K. Chesterton Last edited by G-Sting; 07-15-2018 at 11:50 AM. |
07-15-2018 | #5 |
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Norway
Posts: 345
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Re: Headlight motors keep going after switch off
Bought a repair kit on eBay and they work flawlessly now. Also installed a new wiper motor.
Sent from my SM-G955F using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app
__________________
Roy Martin 1994 ZR-1 #112 Admiral Blue/Black Dana 4:10 Aluminum flywheel Corsa exhaust Watson headers Haibeck chip 470 HP/399 RWHP 1991 ZR-1 #400 White/Red (SOLD) Dana 4:10 Powder coated engine Haibeck performance chip Borla exhaust |
07-15-2018 | #6 | |
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 363
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Re: Headlight motors keep going after switch off
Quote:
Awesome.
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'94 ZR1 LT5 - Dark Red Metallic '79 L82 4-speeds of fun '96 LT1 Borla, H-pipe, TB, CAI (Sold) "An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is only an adventure wrongly considered." -- G.K. Chesterton |
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