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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 129
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OK, so I have to replace the slave cylinder in my ZR-1. There are instructions in one of the recent Heart of the Beast issues. There are also instructions in the service manual. But I have no clear instructions for how to jack up the car in my garage.
I've seen instructions on that "other" site that were inadequate. I've also seen instructions online that were borderline stupid - like lifting from the side where they state that you will only damage the paint a little. I don't want to damage anything. My ZR-1 is pristine and I want to keep it that way. 1. I do not have either a 2 or 4 post lift. 2. I do have an ARCAN 3 ton lift. It will not, however, reach the front cross member without impacting the body. 3. I also have 2 jack stands. 4. If necessary, I can borrow another portable lift and additional jack stands. The service manual shows 3 lift points: - a, the 4 "Frame Contact hoists" - b, the Floor jack (which no floor jack on earth could possibly reach - c, the suspension contact hoist Sure I can use the ARCAN to lift at the frame contact location, but then I would not be able to put the jack stands under. I want to do this safely both for the car, and especially me. Help?!?!?!? |
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#2 | |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Clayton, North Carolina
Posts: 1,133
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Get a racing floor jack and then use your jack stands. Use the lift points in the manual and you will be OK. Sent from my iPhone using ZR-1 Net Registry
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Lou[COLOR="Red"][B][SIZE="4"][/SIZE][/B][/COLOR] |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: TX
Posts: 1,999
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Do you want to lift the front or just the drivers side?
I just changed out a slave cylinder with the front raised. Jack the front sides one at a time. Lift each side far enough to sit your tires back down on blocks about 4" thick. I use 2 2X12's stacked on each side. With the tires sitting on the blocks you can get a low profile floor jack under the front cross member to raise high enough to get it on the stands. Be sure and use something to spread the load on the floor jack across the cross member. 2X4 or 2X6 about a foot long. I put the stands just inboard where the frame starts turning. Be sure & use a hockey puck or similar if you are lifting the sides with a floor jack. Also, be aware of brake & fuel lines when jacking. Here's a pic of the area of where the slave cylinder is located. You can see about where I have the stands on the side of the pic. Hope this helps. z031718-3.jpg
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Kenny 1990 #442 ![]() |
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#4 | |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 129
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: TX
Posts: 1,999
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See post #3
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Kenny 1990 #442 ![]() |
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#6 |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont,Ca
Posts: 3,058
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I’ve made several lifting pads for my jacks ranging from aluminum to ABS/thick polyethylene plastic. I’m the same way as far as using a jack to raise my car,why put a mark on something if it wasn’t there to begin with? I use the pinch welds at the front/rear and use small aluminum pads mounted on jack stands if I need to use jack stands to support the car,no metal jack contact has ever been used for as long as I’ve owned the car. I even have a round aluminum pad that fits in the recess of the floor jack. I must had made about 10+ of these jack pads over the years. Would love to posts some pictures but we all know how that goes. When I need to jack the car from the cross member I have a set of small wooden ramps I made and a small board that fits the cross member to raise the car.
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: TX
Posts: 1,999
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Here's a pic of what I made to lift the car.
One on the left is for the rear. Right one is for the side lift points. I use a 2X6 for the front. 1217-4.jpg
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Kenny 1990 #442 ![]() |
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#8 | |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 129
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#9 | |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 129
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: TX
Posts: 1,999
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I just made do with what I found laying around. (I have access to a manufacturing facility that does metal work)
The piece I made for the rear is 4" OD mechanical tubing. I think either 1/4 or 5/16 wall. Cut it 6" long and bonded baler belt (as in hay baler) to the ends w/ E6000 adhesive. Any thick rubber material would work. I just happened to have some of the belt. The piece for the sides is 3/4 inch plate cut in a cicle with the baler belt adhered to it. Diameter about 3 1/2". I have heard a hockey puck will work for the side piece. Just need something to put in the floor jack saddle to contact the frame lip without putting too much stress in a small area. The piece for the rear fits nicely just behind where the exhaust turns to the outside towards the mufflers. Might have to find someone to cut this piece for you. There is also a jack adapter for the rear available for sale that I have seen. Can't remember where I saw it. I'll look around and see if I can locate it.
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Kenny 1990 #442 ![]() |
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