Suspension refresh

[Billy Mild]

My car doesn't seem really solid at speed 100+ mph. I assume this is due to worn out balljoints, bushings, and maybe alignment. The shocks still respond to the FX3 selector and when in Perf mode it is very still, but still seems a little disconnected from the road. I run Nitto NT05 tires, and I doubt that is my issue. 1991 ZR1 with 79,000 miles.

I'm just in the beginning phases of acquiring parts for this to be done over the winter. I have read a lot of blog posts about doing bushings and that looks like a huge task on this car, especially the rear. There is a shop in town that has lifts for rent and this is one of those jobs it looks like will come in handy.

What does the typical suspension refresh look like?

Does anyone have a program where they ship out reconditioned parts with new bushings, ball joints, and what not and you send the stock old parts back?

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[secondchance]

Originally Posted by Billy Mild

My car doesn't seem really solid at speed 100+ mph. I assume this is due to worn out balljoints, bushings, and maybe alignment. The shocks still respond to the FX3 selector and when in Perf mode it is very still, but still seems a little disconnected from the road. I run Nitto NT05 tires, and I doubt that is my issue. 1991 ZR1 with 79,000 miles.

I'm just in the beginning phases of acquiring parts for this to be done over the winter. I have read a lot of blog posts about doing bushings and that looks like a huge task on this car, especially the rear. There is a shop in town that has lifts for rent and this is one of those jobs it looks like will come in handy.

What does the typical suspension refresh look like?

Does anyone have a program where they ship out reconditioned parts with new bushings, ball joints, and what not and you send the stock old parts back?

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I have not run into any shop that would ship out reconditioned part. Also, in my opinion, replacement urethane bushings are better in that urethane bushings will sharpen the car's response by taking out slack found in rubber bushings.

A lift is a must. Also, hydraulic press is needed to press out old rubber bushings. Actually I think rear, two dog bones each side, a pair of bushings each side for sway bars, two bushings on each struts and shock absorber to spring bushings, is relatively easy replacement. Front suspension (I need to do this soon) needs to be disassembled pretty much to remove A arms. Lowers, from what I see, can be replaced relatively easily. Upper A arms are bit tricky due to a bar that goes front to rear. I may just elect to buy a set of reconditioned upper A arms from Corvette Central. I would consider replacing ball joints and control arm outers when doing the front. And, replacing tie rod ends when doing the rear.
Replacing sway bar bushing are not a must but up to you.

If you go with urethane bushings, make sure you order a small jug of lubricant. What shows up with bushings are not enough to lube them up.

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...-pictures.html

[XfireZ51]

I redid ALL my bushings w Poly units, replaced ball joints, and tie rod ends.
Running Michelin Super Sports.Also upgraded rear trailing arm to chassis brackets and rear tie rod to diff brackets w DRM units. Lgaff drove my car and thought it felt like new.

[Billy Mild]

Did either of you drop the pumpkin?

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[secondchance]

If you mean batwing body mount, I left that one alone.

[XfireZ51]

Same here.

[Billy Mild]

Did you replace the rear tie rods?

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[Jagdpanzer]

The batwing rubber mounts are a real bear to replace. I would leave them alone unless they where shot due to hard use or old age.

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by Billy Mild

Did you replace the rear tie rods?

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Not yet. Namely because they are fine even after 156,000 miles. No slop and rear tires are wearing fine.
I will be doing the front because of inner tie rod ends are worn resulting in dead spot on steering and tire outer edge wear. This also makes the car follow road rut. I could just replace tie rods but seeing leakage around the rubber boots figured worth replacing the entire rack. To get in there I have to pretty much remove lower A arms - might as we'll take care of bushings and ball joints.

[Billy Mild]

I don't think my rack leaks at all. I have only 78k miles on the vette.

I will replace my tie rods on the front for sure since my steering seems vague

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