Coolant Hose Question

[BlackZR1]

I'm in the process of replacing coolant with Zerex GM spec 1825-M and large hoses with Jerry's silicone hoses. I'm not one to give up but the hose that runs between the water pump and thermostat housing looks like a bear. I can barely see the connection to the water pump.
The other hoses were stuck to the fittings and required prying 360 around to get them off.
Is there a trick to getting this hose off of the water pump connection without removing the water pump? I can't even get my hands in there no less tools. Maybe get the belt tensioner out of the way?

Thanks,
Roger

[RussMcB]

I did it a few months ago and it was way more difficult than I anticipated. I used a variety of tools like razor blades, screwdrivers, pliers, breakaway fluid, etc.

A thought: Search here for tips about unbolting the t-stat housing, then maybe you can use the leverage to help remove the hose from the water pump.

The lower (skid bar?) and oil cooler are easy to unbolt and swing out of the way. That may give you more room to work.

Good luck.

[Dynomite]

Use single edge razor blade cutting lengthwise the hose on the fitting.
To replace the short hose between thermostat housing and radiator you have to remove the two bolts holding the thermostat housing to the chassis.

[efnfast]

I put Jerry's hoses on my car. Red, it really dressed it up. I also used heat shrinks instead of clamps. Looks sweet. Jerry's hoses tend to run small i.e tight fit.

[32valvesftw]

Pardon my ignorance, it is vast, but heat shrinks instead of clamps? Where can I get more information on this?

[efnfast]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4O91YqHbp8c

[BlackZR1]

Mission accomplished.
Removing the belt tensioner gave me the access I needed to the water pump hose. Fortunately I could wrestle the hose off the fitting without major surgery. My hoses were 25 yr. old factory original with the original spring clamps. Amazing they lasted this long. Also thank you to tomtom75 who offered the thermostat fitting tips in "Solutions."

Wish me luck on refilling with no leaks. I'll be trying Cliff's method of blowing into the driver's side "L" to clear the air out of the water pump.

Roger

[Dynomite]

Fill with the Green Coolant and do it very slow.....let lots of time for the coolant to equalize on each side of the thermostat which does have vent holes but holes/slots are very small. Also....since you did not remove water pump there should be fluid in lower half of water pump after draining coolant from the engine. As far as leaks....yes....good luck and just tighten the clamps one more turn

Last.......keep hand on Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds and if they are not getting warm within a minute stop and reconsider. If they are warming up......let the engine run for a bit. After you have reached operating temperature rev it up a bit to get the air out. Shut it down and let it cool off. Then replenish coolant in the overflow in front of passenger side window and also keep coolant within 3 inches or so on coolant reservoir under passenger headlight.

[BlackZR1]

Cliff's coolant refilling method worked great.
Here's a picture of the final product.

The only problem is the water pump hose is leaking – of course the hardest one, at the connection to the water pump.
Next weekend I will dive back in.

Roger

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by BlackZR1

Cliff's coolant refilling method worked great.
Here's a picture of the final product.

The only problem is the water pump hose is leaking – of course the hardest one, at the connection to the water pump.
Next weekend I will dive back in.

Roger

Nice

I use just a tad of Permatex inside the hoses but that does make the hose slippery. As long as the hose clamps (rounded edge type for silicon hoses) is just behind the raised ring on the coolant pipe, you should be fine...just tighten it up one more turn. Oh....and place the hose clamps so they are easily reached with 1/4 socket extensions and socket .....see Hose Clamps