Wheel bearings

[Fully Vetted]

Looks like I'm going to need new rear wheel bearings. I did a thread search and most everyone complained about vibrations which I'm not getting. On a recent Hill Country trip I started noticing some rotational squeaking when I did uturns. I checked for play on the driver side wheel and there was some play but very little. I checked the passenger side and there was so much play I thought the wheel was lose. A good 1/8 in at least. I can't believe it's not vibrating.

I do have a couple of questions...

Is this a ZR-1 specific part or do all C4's use the same part?

Do I replace the entire hub?

Is this something that can be done in the garage with a formidable amount of tools and some decent mechanical skills or is it a trip to the Vette Clinic?

[Billy Mild]

I believe the F Body part is actually cheaper. I bought my rear wheel hub assemblies at Advance Auto Parts using one of the coupon codes

This can be done in the garage no problem. There are plenty of How Tos on it. Make sure you have a lot of extensions and a U Joint for your rachet.

[Demps]

Timken 513020

Amazon ~$106

Easy but you'll need a few non-common tools.

36mm socket & breaker or air wrench
55 (I think) torx
Anti-sieze
Wire brush
Optional--Teflon washer replacement

Ted

Can provide tips/instructions if needed.

[Billy Mild]

What is the Teflon washer for? I have heard that it's a good idea to replace the concave washer that is on the axle but.

[Coupe89]

Summit racing has them for $104

[Fully Vetted]

After reading some past threads (and Cliff's Solutions thread) I think I'm going to retorque the axle nuts first. That seems to be a common problem with C4's.

[pantera1683]

I replaced my bearings earlier this year. I had a strange intermittent squeal at speed and a noticeably loose bearing when I shook the wheel to test it. I vote for replacing the bearings and the washers. Replacement was straightforward and you'll have some piece of mind. Also you can rent the axle nut from Autozone.

[Fully Vetted]

That's the same symptoms I'm getting. It's def not a loose axle nut. I retorqued to 160 lb ft and it didn't budge. That's all I could muster without a cheater bar. I don't think 10 lb ft is going to suddenly tighten everything up. Hub is still loose as a Vegas stripper.

I'm hearing good things about the SKF F-body hubs so I'll look into those. Would really prefer some USA made Timken but I don't think they exist any more or are pretty expensive if the do. I was thinking about doing the half shaft ujoints while I've got it torn apart. And the shocks. That's why I was asking about the bushing replacement in the other thread.

Might as well make it a real project and kill about 4 birds with one stone, right?

[Karl]

http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread.php?t=24859

I installed f body in the front and here is the thread.

So far so good.

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by Fully Vetted

I'm hearing good things about the SKF F-body hubs so I'll look into those. Would really prefer some USA made Timken but I don't think they exist any more or are pretty expensive if the do. I was thinking about doing the half shaft ujoints while I've got it torn apart.

You're on the rear of the car and there are no F-body choices. There is an application using the front T-trucks on the rear but there's always been questions as to the construction of them. Actually at this particular time and the "age" of the C4 are these guys maybe just packaging the same product with different ID's on the boxes? One just doesn't know.

The T-truck is the fronts that would have been used for the T-Blazer/T-GMC builds and the FWD Eldorado/Tornado/Riviera/Seville You actually need to watch the part #'s of what you buy!