WMD - Saturday - 13 June 2015

[QB93Z]

I am scheduling a Westminster Maintenance Day on Saturday, 13 June 2015 at my garage in Westminster, Maryland.

We will be working on rear wheel bearings and shocks for Charlie, and if we have time we will install C-Beam plates for Scott.

If you have anything else you want to do to your Z, please let me know.

Start time is 9:00 AM but come when you can and stay as long as you like. Come and hang out with us.

Location: In the garage behind my house at 195 W Main St, Westminster, MD

If you need directions of have questions, contact me at 443-244-1347 of jim@gizmosart.com

Jim

[93 Vette]

Hi Jim,

I'm not sure yet if I will be able to make it this Saturday. Have a great time if I don't make it.

Thanks,
Matt

[ZR-1nce removed]

Can't make this one fellas, I could tell you why but then... Well you know...

[Arctic91]

I should be there a little late... can't make the 0900 start due to a swim meet. Looking forward to seeing everyone again.

Scott

[Rex Ruby]

Headed to the in-laws in Cape May to do some chores for them.
I will make one this year!

[secondchance]

Sorry... Can't make this Saturday. I'll be down at VA Beach getting baked.

[93 Vette]

I'm trying to work it out so that I can come for a few hours in the morning.

Matt

[nelson007]

I'll be there.

Nelson

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by QB93Z

I am scheduling a Westminster Maintenance Day on Saturday, 13 June 2015 at my garage in Westminster, Maryland.

We will be working on rear wheel bearings and shocks for Charlie, and if we have time we will install C-Beam plates for Scott.

Jim

Hi Jim......just in case you get to the C-Beam Plates.......I always have on hand SS bolts to replace the Stock Exhaust bolts to the Exhaust Manifold rather than install the rusted old Bolts (6 bolts of two different lengths). Have some HEAT handy just in case the Exhaust Manifold bolts are rusted beyond letting go with reasonable torque (you do not want to break them off....yes I have done it all).

Some other items just in case......And make sure you remove the washers on TOP of the C-Frame (did that also)

C4 Beam Plates and Installation

C4 Beam Plate Installed On Differential ......................C4 Beam Plate Installed On Transmission
.................................................. ................................Note C4 Beam Plate Bevel Location

5. Why Take Measurements?
It is kind of a corny measurement since you are measuring between the C-Frame and the side wall/Underbody which is heavily coated and made of light steel and the accuracy of the measurement needs only to be within 1/4 inch + or -. I think you are just making sure you did not put an angle in that front driveline U-joint by moving the transmission appreciably during the installation of the new C4 Beam Plates.
A Quick Measurement in regard to Transmission Yoke height can be checked from inside the car by measuring the height of the Shifter. A height of 6.25 inches from the counsel to the top of the shifter (at the center of the shifter in neutral) will be very close to the correct transmission height.

a. The 1.77 in spacer should fit between the top of the driveline support to the underbody. The 1.1 in spacer should fit between the right side (passenger side) of the driveline support to the side wall.
b. You might check that alignment spacing before you start the project to see where your alignment is now. Then just keep that alignment with the installation of the new C4 Beam Plates.

Secondary to Transmission/Driveline Alignment is ground clearance of Transmission Drain Plug. The Transmission Drain Plug clearance to ground is approximately 4 to 4.5 inches on my ZR-1s which is NOT the lowest point on the ZR-1 Drive Train/Chassis. The Ground Clearance depends on many things including Tire Pressure, Tires, Wheels, and Suspension.
6. Re-Installing the Exhaust.
The Exhaust System can be re-installed after the C-Beam Plates are torqued and the front Exhaust Hanger is re-installed in the location of the Front C-Beam Plates.
The Entire Exhaust System can be reinstalled by sliding the Exhaust System under the ZR-1 and setting a rolling hydraulic jack under the rear of the center Exhaust and lifting up to within about 8 inches of the final position.
A. Lift the two rear Tail Pipes and slip the slider into position on the slip joints. Slide the Entire Exhaust System to the rear of the ZR-1 about 1 inch completely engaging the slip joints holding the Tail Pipes.
B. Raise the front of the Exhaust System with the rolling Hydraulic Jack to the final height aligning with the Catalytic Converter Connections. Slide the Entire Exhaust System Forward and install 6 NEW SS 10mm x 1.5 bolts. (10mm x 1.5 x 30mm on Passenger Side and 10mm x 1.5 x 50mm on Drivers Side). The SS Bolts shown have 17mm Hex Heads and Washers are NOT required.

SS 10mm x 1.5 x 30mm and SS 10mm x 1.5 x 50mm Bolts


C. Reinstall the two Front 13mm Head Hanger Bolts and the two Rear 13mm Head Hanger Bolts.

[QB93Z]

Thanks Cliff. I have broken several exhaust flange bolts over the years. The good news is that it has always been the bolt that is easy to get to for drilling and tapping.

Regarding the measurements, what would you "adjust" if the dimensions were not what you expected?

When I reinstall a C-Beam, I have a rolling jack under the back of the oil pan. Raising the back of the engine changes the angle of the motor and transmission so the back end of the C-Beam can be exactly aligned to the differential.

Jim