Questions/Help on buying a ZR1

[J-Bonez]

I am flying out to look at this 1992 zr1 with 42,000 miles. It has a chip and a tune, and a catback exhaust. "The car was completely stripped down and repainted with all new weatherstripping in 2010. The engine got all new gaskets and hoses and was painted along with the car. The work was done at Vettestorations in Southfield Mi." Everything else should be stock. I owned a 1994 LT1 and when I bought it the Adjustable suspension electronics were disconnected by the ABS computer under the rear compartment. So I plan on checking that. What else should I be looking for to make sure everything is in running order? I have a 600 mile drive home if I purchase this car and want to make sure I am not buying someone else's problems. I've waited my entire life to finally afford this ZR1 and I don't want my Dream Car to blind me of issues it may have. What advice can you ZR1 owners give me on what to test/ look for ? before handing this owner a ton of cash.

[Dynomite]

Welcome to the ZR1.net Forum

ZR-1 inspection TIPS
Initial Maintenance TIPS

More information in Signature

[J-Bonez]

Thank you dynomite. as to you reply :
Oil pressure idling?
Oil pressure at 3,000 rpm hot?
Stock Exhaust?
Do you know if the secondaries function with power switch ON?
What is the time between vacuum pump cycling with ignition key on?

What should the oil pressure be idling? and at 3,000 rpm hot?

What are the secondaries that i need to check with power switch on?

and what time range am i looking for between vacuum pump cycling with ignition key on?

I really appreciate all your help and hope to soon be in the ZR1 brotherhood!!

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by J-Bonez

Thank you dynomite. as to you reply :
Oil pressure idling?
Oil pressure at 3,000 rpm hot?
Stock Exhaust?
Do you know if the secondaries function with power switch ON?
What is the time between vacuum pump cycling with ignition key on?

What should the oil pressure be idling? and at 3,000 rpm hot? Gauge oil pressure is a bit varied between gauges but 50-60-75 psi

What are the secondaries that i need to check with power switch on? This is a bit difficult to explain and in any event if the vacuum pump cycles and then stops and the indicator light is on when you turn the power switch, your secondaries should be working which function at Wide open Throttle (secondary throttle ports.....32 valve of which 16 throttle ports are secondary)

and what time range am i looking for between vacuum pump cycling with ignition key on? A bit varied again but 5-10 seconds to a minute or so is workable....just make sure the vacuum pump (under passenger head light) does turn off for at least a few seconds

I really appreciate all your help and hope to soon be in the ZR1 brotherhood!!

Look for oil leaks under the oil pan and water leaks around the water pump or radiator hoses.

Check the oil level and color of oil (should be light transparent NOT BLACK).
Check coolant level in overflow container under passenger head light.
Check brake fluid level and make sure clutch releases. It is hard to check clutch fluid level as reservoir is hidden under ECM just in front of drivers side behind left front tire high point on engine (should be removable flat black cover held on with Velcro on top of ECM)

Fire it up and listen for any knocks of any kind just in case.
Let it warm up until temperature stabilizes which should be mid gauge between 100 and 260.....around 180 more or less.
Idle should be around 800 after it levels out.
Idle should be smooth.
Rev it up and listen for any hesitation.
Just check overall condition of paint and interior for stains of any sort.

Actually.....Anything except a rare rod knock or other knock and except for any serious dents or exterior damage or interior carpet stains/trim breakage are easily fixable. But when you get it home...do a compression check for starters and then post up photos and any questions you may have

Would be nice if someone from the Forum could stop by and look at the Z with you just in case.

If the fluid levels are where they should be and the items above check out with the clutch disengaging so you can shift easily, you should be able to drive it almost anywhere

Others I am sure will add suggestions....would be nice to post up photos beforehand so we can all take a look

[alnukem]

I agree with dynamite, I would ask if a forum member was available to look at the car with you. I would also do a Compression check there! Unlike other V8's, these require the engine to be pulled to change a head gasket.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by alnukem

I agree with dynamite, I would ask if a forum member was available to look at the car with you. I would also do a Compression check there! Unlike other V8's, these require the engine to be pulled to change a head gasket.

I concur on the compression test but I usually delay that test after confirming it is running smooth until I get the Z in my garage. I definitely do a compression test then. I look for 210-230 lbs and within 5 lbs on each cylinder (ALL plugs removed.....three compressions with the starter on each cylinder with fully charged battery).

Priscilla (my wife) hands me tools and runs for parts (even suggests what might be the issue) when I am under/or in the Zs

I just hand the Plugs to Priscilla as I remove them.
Priscilla is the one operating the starter when I do compression tests

[We Gone]

Good Luck, Let us know the outcome. If you buy it be sure to check out the tires before you drive home.

Don't know if you found this.

http://zr1netregistry.com/Marketplace/BuyersGuide.aspx

[Kevin]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I concur on the compression test but I usually delay that test after confirming it is running smooth until I get the Z in my garage. I definitely do a compression test then. I look for 210-230 lbs and within 5 lbs on each cylinder (ALL plugs removed.....three compressions with the starter on each cylinder with fully charged battery).

Dynamite is my wife (Priscilla) who has been banned because she shares same IP address. Dave was going to correct that but I guess got busy doing other stuff. Priscilla hands me tools and runs for parts (even suggests what might be the issue) when I am under/or in the Zs

I just hand the Plugs to Priscilla as I remove them.
Priscilla is the one operating the starter when I do compression tests

Let me look into that today

[efnfast]

The timing chains on these tend to rattle on start up, this is normal. It sounds like a rod knock, it will quite in a couple seconds.

To check for secondary operation, floor it. Under load, not sitting still. If the motor falls on it's face at 5000 rpm, secondaries are not opening. The engine should fly to 7K, rev limiter is at 7250. In third, this will put you around 100, so you may want to do it in second, if everything is working properly, hang on.

Good luck.

[J-Bonez]

Thanks you all, pretty much know the general things to look for now I was just wondering if there was some common ZR1 problems I should be looking for. The car is just outside Detroit. Liviona Michigan I believe. I want to fly up a weekend in May. If any forum members live around there and would like to meet me I would love a little extra help. PM me and I will send you my number.