04-22-2014 | #1 |
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Eastern Missouri
Posts: 773
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Cleaning Stainless...
Speaking of cleaning up your Z - I was given a stainless Borla exhaust by Paul Workman. Another example of "The Brotherhood" in action. I am SO appreciative!
Anyway - I figured I would clean it up a bit before installing. Hadn't really had to clean stainless before - but I think it turned out pretty good... Mufflers before - Mufflers after using a fine wire wheel and mineral spirits on a Scotchbrite pad: Pipes were a bit heat tarnished - so I used Bar Keepers Friend and a Scotchbrite pad in the kitchen sink (don't tell the wife lol)... Actually she came home and caught me so I had to super clean the sink.. After: Looks pretty good I think!
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[LEFT][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/LEFT] [CENTER][COLOR=Indigo][SIZE=4][I][B] **Now Sold** 1990 ZR-1 #2093, Black on Black..[/B][/I][/SIZE][/COLOR][/CENTER] |
04-22-2014 | #2 |
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,168
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Re: Cleaning Stainless...
looks good,
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Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold |
04-22-2014 | #3 |
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: NC
Posts: 1,786
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Re: Cleaning Stainless...
Looks good.
(ya' gotta' put in the extra clean BEFORE she shows up, and then when she asks why it's so clean, you say it's because you cleaned some parts in the sink. Then she'll say, "You need to clean parts in the sink more often". One of my ex'es actually said that) I can't believe PW gave you DIRTY stuff tho'. Although I COULD stoop to accept a dirty plenum there Paul, if you're holding... THat is pretty cool tho'
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I'm getting my snappics / threads removed blindly as fast as I can, to get in compliance with copyright / license TOS on the boards here (lots of FSM pages and other copyright / license violations on my part; sorry guys). And thanks to all the guys who didn't whine when I posted those FSM copyrighted / licensed stuff in my threads... ( :thumbsup: [b]and to think I complied with a mod's request to delete a pic of him in a Challenge Car in NCM Museum, so he wouldn't get in hot water)[/b] Thanks to several guys here for sending parts FREE; BearlyFlying, WeGone, Geezer, GoldCylon, and more there, TonyD, mike100, fletchusmc... 1990 #2794; 4L60e Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless, Power Effects 3" [IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GHpfzty7DVU/UQn-0Ru2xAI/AAAAAAAAA14/08mz1p4QLD4/s445/Screenshot-5.png[/IMG] Last edited by Schrade; 04-22-2014 at 09:58 PM. |
04-22-2014 | #4 |
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Olive Branch,MS
Posts: 291
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Re: Cleaning Stainless...
Great job, and I know how hard it is to clean stainless steel. It took me about three hours to sand and polish my plenum bolts. That stuff is tough as nails.
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04-22-2014 | #5 |
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Portland Oregon metro area (Washington side)
Posts: 3,206
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Re: Cleaning Stainless...
Lots of work. Good job.
There's nothing "stainless" about stainless steel. They should have called it "rustless steel" or "not brown steel". I'll be looking at the corsa tubes soon. Got a tiny leak somewhere that I can hear. I'll do some "shining" of the mufflers as well.
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Scott Vett owner since 1979._It's about the car and the people |
04-23-2014 | #6 |
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 243
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Re: Cleaning Stainless...
Looks good to me! Nice job, cleaning that is hard work.
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Constantine Registry Founding Member #0235 1991 Corvette ZR-1 -- Stock, 94 ZR-1 exhaust system, muffler delete. 1956 Chevrolet Belair -- Pro Street, 531ci Cadillac, 8-71 Blower, 8pt roll bar, built TH-400, 9" rear, 1,100 HP -- Street Car. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8y4cwcvK0s 1968 Mustang "Pegasus" -- Zeeker Chassis, 584ci Dart Block, Brodix Big Brodies, 2-1150 Dominators, FTI 'Glide, 1168 hp, best ET & Trap(holding back) 8.57@159 -- 7.9X -- 1/4 mile car. 1970 Chevelle -- 468ci, TKO600, shaved and smoothed everything. |
04-24-2014 | #7 |
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Springfield, Minnesota
Posts: 446
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Re: Cleaning Stainless...
Awesome job.
Here's a helpful hint that has worked for me. Go to Napa and get some aluminum brightener. This is an acid and you will want to use it in a ventilated area and use rubber gloves. Also, to apply it, you will want to use it in a spray bottle (the aluminum brightener comes in a gallon jug or a smaller spray bottle). I recommend the fine mist spray bottles like old empty Meguiars "spray detailer" bottles. MARK THE BOTTLE so you don't spray it on your paint, which will probably be harmless anyway (but you want to know what you have put in the spray bottle). Also buy the gray scotchbright pads. They are fine enough that they won't scratch aluminum surfaces. You will be amazed at how quickly stainless cleans right up using aluminum brighter...seconds to make it look new with scrubbing with the gray scotchbrite. Anyway, you will want to rinse off your completed job with water. This also works in cleaning the undercarriage aluminum parts of our cars...makes them look like new. Again ventilation, rubber gloves, and rinse with water. Lastly, one more helpful hint when working on the undercarriage...those aluminum coated bolts and fasteners...spray them with the brightener and after a few second of letting the treatment work, rinse. If you let the acid on too long, these coated bolts will streak their coating onto the surrounding surface. The aluminum brightener works superbly on grime and grease, when nothing else will. And again will make the extruded aluminum parts and castings look just like when they came off the Bowling Green line. Obviously, don't use this stuff on polished aluminum. Last edited by Meanmyz; 04-24-2014 at 01:28 AM. |
04-24-2014 | #8 |
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Eastern Missouri
Posts: 773
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Re: Cleaning Stainless...
Good tip! Never heard of that stuff before. Also didn't know there were different colors/grits of Scotchbrite pads. The Home Depot only had one kind so thats what I got. These are like a maroon color..
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[LEFT][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/LEFT] [CENTER][COLOR=Indigo][SIZE=4][I][B] **Now Sold** 1990 ZR-1 #2093, Black on Black..[/B][/I][/SIZE][/COLOR][/CENTER] |
04-24-2014 | #9 |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,491
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Re: Cleaning Stainless...
Fleetwood (Addison, IL) 630-543-0190 carries a white rouge "stick" used to load up a buffer pad that is specifically intended for SS for "show quality" polishing...FYI.
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[I][COLOR="Blue"]Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez![/COLOR][/I] 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
04-24-2014 | #10 | |
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Springfield, Minnesota
Posts: 446
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Re: Cleaning Stainless...
Quote:
The gray Scotchbrite, which I also got at Napa, I THINK many times is used for light removal of "nibs", contaminates, etc., after you after applied lacquer finishes to wood...prepares it for that final smooth finish. On stainless, I don't think it really matters. Stainless is some tough stuff. But, when you are cleaning your undercarriage, you don't want scratch marks on the aluminum showing every direction that you scrubbed. |
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