NPP Exhaust Valve Controls

[XfireZ51]

NPP Exhaust Control Valves help control resonance without the weight and backpressure of a resonator. However the use of engine vacuum can also cause the valves to open during low vacuum or high MAP conditions. Typically, this happens on inclines causing the valves to crack open increasing resonance. I recently had the opportunity to find an NPP Retrofit kit by Nakid Parts. However, in trying to install it, it didn't work well or not at all. Everything checked out and it did work when using a brake bleeder as a vacuum source. When applying engine vacuum however the exhaust control valves remained in whatever position they were in with engine start. Everything checked out. NakidParts checked the unit and found it to operate properly. They stated that they had 800 units in operation including one for Jay Leno. Maybe it's an issue w the LT-5 v an LS-3 or LS-7.
Reviewing the electrical, pneumatic circuits there was no reason why it shouldn't work. But it just didn't.as Sherlock Holmes would say to Watson,

'How often have I said to you that when you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth?'

It's now clear the solenoid used w the NPP in a Box Retrofit kit has an issue, at least, w LT-5 engine vacuum. mike100 has done his own NPP control using a GM EGR solenoid. I decided to try this solenoid in place of the one used for NIAB retrofit.
So here's a video showing the operation of the NPP retrofit BUT using a GM EGR SOLENOID in place of the stock NIAB solenoid.

[mike100]

Already posted on the other forum, but glad to see you verified function of the solenoid I recommended in the write-up for the next HoTB newsletter.

[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by mike100

Already posted on the other forum, but glad to see you verified function of the solenoid I recommended in the write-up for the next HoTB newsletter.

Yep Mike. Works great. Valves snap open and shut smoothly. I happened to look at the remnants of my AIR equipment and noticed that the solenoid used there is the same or very similar. However, it does have a vent at the bottom that leads to the AIR valve.

[efnfast]

Well, ain't that cool!

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by mike100

Already posted on the other forum, but glad to see you verified function of the solenoid I recommended in the write-up for the next HoTB newsletter.

There's another forum? (that's NOT run by anal-orifeces? )

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I'm still thinkin' on a way to remotely actuate the valves on the PE pipes I got from Jeff [Shrek]; either mechanically, by cable, or vacuum actuation, maybe with the secondary port actuators somehow, which tested functional, before I removed them after top end work...



Either way would call for affixing some sort of arm onto the valve controller knobs:

[WARP TEN]

Originally Posted by Schrade

There's another forum? (that's NOT run by anal-orifeces? )

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I'm still thinkin' on a way to remotely actuate the valves on the PE pipes I got from Jeff [Shrek]; either mechanically, by cable, or vacuum actuation, maybe with the secondary port actuators somehow, which tested functional, before I removed them after top end work...



Either way would call for affixing some sort of arm onto the valve controller knobs:

You might be able to adapt the QTP motors and wiring to the PE valves. Depends on how much torque it takes to turn the knobs I suppose; also the QTPs only turn the cutout valves 90 degrees. QTPs website has some pdfs on the components but I didn't see info on motor torque etc. --Bob

[XfireZ51]

Have run into a glitch that really has me scratching my head. The M2W remote fob works just fine when the motor is running BUT when the vacuum solenoid and wireless receiver are powered using my little lawn tractor battery as a stand in. However, once I transfer power and ground over to the car BATT and ground, it won't work with engine running. With ignition ON, but no engine start, I can hear the solenoid clicking as I press the fob. Once I start the motor, NADA. Appears that no signal is getting through to the wireless.
At this point, I'm about to give up on the fob and install a ground interrupt switch in the console. I don't see the real value of the fob. It's not like I am going to be walking around the car while it idles and I click the fob on and off.
A toggle switch in the console should work just fine as you drive.
Maybe one of you EE geniuses can come up w a good solution. I may try it just to solve the mystery but otherwise, I've spent way too much time messing w this thing. Altho I definitely want to be able to control the opening and closing of the exhaust valves.

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by WARP TEN

You might be able to adapt the QTP motors and wiring to the PE valves. Depends on how much torque it takes to turn the knobs I suppose; also the QTPs only turn the cutout valves 90 degrees. QTPs website has some pdfs on the components but I didn't see info on motor torque etc. --Bob

THanks for the lead there Mr. B - will do some reading there...


Dom; any chance that you could PhotoChop the wiring diagram with your wiring chopped into the schematic???

Snappics do show things in a different perspective, AND YOU MIGHT SEE THE PROBLEM / SOLUTION AS YOU MAP IT OUT THERE...

...and, try POWER from lawnmower, with GROUND on car, and then POWER from car, GROUND on mower.................................

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Have run into a glitch that really has me scratching my head. The M2W remote fob works just fine when the motor is running BUT when the vacuum solenoid and wireless receiver are powered using my little lawn tractor battery as a stand in. However, once I transfer power and ground over to the car BATT and ground, it won't work with engine running. With ignition ON, but no engine start, I can hear the solenoid clicking as I press the fob. Once I start the motor, NADA. Appears that no signal is getting through to the wireless.
At this point, I'm about to give up on the fob and install a ground interrupt switch in the console. I don't see the real value of the fob. It's not like I am going to be walking around the car while it idles and I click the fob on and off.
A toggle switch in the console should work just fine as you drive.
Maybe one of you EE geniuses can come up w a good solution. I may try it just to solve the mystery but otherwise, I've spent way too much time messing w this thing. Altho I definitely want to be able to control the opening and closing of the exhaust valves.

[XfireZ51]

OK. Decided to forego the fob. However, I have it connected so if I ever figure out what the issue is, I can use the fob as an alternative. Frankly, I don't see myself wanting to close or open the exhaust valves when I am outside of the car with motor running.

Here's my solution. BTW it was idling like that and THEN I realized I had left off the brake booster hose AND the vacuum supply to the Fuel Pressure Regulator. DOH!

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

OK. Decided to forego the fob. However, I have it connected so if I ever figure out what the issue is, I can use the fob as an alternative. Frankly, I don't see myself wanting to close or open the exhaust valves when I am outside of the car with motor running.

Here's my solution. BTW it was idling like that and THEN I realized I had left off the brake booster hose AND the vacuum supply to the Fuel Pressure Regulator. DOH!

So your vacuum was off when you plugged in the actuator?

Doesn't that warrant a re-try?