Headers install tips? Cliff??? - ZR-1 Net Registry Forums

Schrade · 02-04-2014

Headers should be here in a few days; anyone got tips? Snappics?

Did this once in a CJ-7, with lots of working real estate; not quite so much room under this twister...

Dynomite · 02-04-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Schrade

Headers should be here in a few days; anyone got tips? Snappics?

Did this once in a CJ-7, with lots of working real estate; not quite so much room under this twister...

Exhaust System Replace with Headers
Exhaust Headers Locking Bolt Tricks

I would definitely use Stage 8 Locks and take your time.....You do not have to place Header Bolt in every manifold bolt hole.

Installing Headers and Exhaust

I would highly recommend using a 1/4 inch socket, 1/4 inch Universal and 1/4 inch extensions (wobbles) as much easier to work in tight spaces around Headers.

Also....I think the Stage 8 Bolts are steel and can be picked up using a magnet on a stick...so have that handy

We Gone · 02-04-2014

Be ready to address the dip stick were it attaches to the header bolt.

Schrade · 02-04-2014

Thanks there Steve; will keep it in mine here...

Cliff - second link is dead Dbase error

Quote:

Post 45 - Exhaust System Replace with Headers

Dropping bolts? You mean there's hiding places UNDER the headers?

THAT'S good news...

Quote:

Now if you drop stuff....here is the tool...

Dynomite · 02-04-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Schrade

Thanks there Steve; will keep it in mine here...

Cliff - second link is dead Dbase error

Dropping bolts? You mean there's hiding places UNDER the headers?

THAT'S good news...

The links seem to work for me.....

I mean dropping those locks (two parts consisting of the lock and the keeper for the lock) which are thin and find themselves among the header tubes.....

efnfast · 02-04-2014

Regarding the stage 8 bolts, I couldn't get the keepers on, actually, the shop that installed my headers couldn't get the keepers on. The clip was thicker than the groove it goes in. So in other words, I paid $75 for header bolts.

GOLDCYLON · 02-04-2014

Remove the inner fenders for more room.

mike100 · 02-04-2014

Getting the original manifolds off are the biggest challenge. You need to remove the fender liners as previously mentioned and some fasteners are easier to see with the engine raised up an inch or two so you need to take off the motor mount studs. I also found more room by removing the frame K-member reinforcements down below as well. The next biggest issue is the dipstick and then how to connect the rest of the pipes to the headers. There's a good amount of room to slap on the headers once the original parts are removed.

The original manifolds only used 7 fasteners to attach to the head- you do not have to use all 16. basically you can't get them all unless the engine is out of the car...if you get about 10 or so, you should be fine. I had to retighten a few of mine about 2 times until the gasket was set from heat cycles.

you need one o2 sensor extension on the p/s. It is the oddball 3-wire plug only used for a couple of years by GM until they went to 4-wire O2 sensors. I couldn't find an off-the-shelf unit so I made my own out of GM weather pack parts at Napa (I made a post somewhere about that I think). I also bough some heat sleeve for both O2 harnesses since the new pipes route differently and the O2 sensors are farther downstream exposing the wire harness a little more.

efnfast · 02-04-2014

My headers rubbed on my steering shaft.
Someone here fabbed up some dip stick relocation brackets. (Paul Workman?)

Dynomite · 02-04-2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by efnfast

Someone here fabbed up some dip stick relocation brackets. (Paul Workman?)

Yep....here ya go and Jerry has the Dip Stick Tube Seal

Dip stick tube seal
Dip stick bracket

02-04-2014	#1
Schrade Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: NC Posts: 1,786	Headers install tips? Cliff??? Headers should be here in a few days; anyone got tips? Snappics? Did this once in a CJ-7, with lots of working real estate; not quite so much room under this twister... __________________ I'm getting my snappics / threads removed blindly as fast as I can, to get in compliance with copyright / license TOS on the boards here (lots of FSM pages and other copyright / license violations on my part; sorry guys). And thanks to all the guys who didn't whine when I posted those FSM copyrighted / licensed stuff in my threads... ( :thumbsup: [b]and to think I complied with a mod's request to delete a pic of him in a Challenge Car in NCM Museum, so he wouldn't get in hot water)[/b] Thanks to several guys here for sending parts FREE; BearlyFlying, WeGone, Geezer, GoldCylon, and more there, TonyD, mike100, fletchusmc... 1990 #2794; 4L60e Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless, Power Effects 3" [IMG]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GHpfzty7DVU/UQn-0Ru2xAI/AAAAAAAAA14/08mz1p4QLD4/s445/Screenshot-5.png[/IMG]

02-04-2014	#3
We Gone Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: ATL. GA. Posts: 2,170	Re: Headers install tips? Cliff??? Be ready to address the dip stick were it attaches to the header bolt. __________________ Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold

02-04-2014	#6
efnfast Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Dunbarton NH Posts: 7,486	Re: Headers install tips? Cliff??? Regarding the stage 8 bolts, I couldn't get the keepers on, actually, the shop that installed my headers couldn't get the keepers on. The clip was thicker than the groove it goes in. So in other words, I paid $75 for header bolts.

02-04-2014	#7
GOLDCYLON Join Date: May 2007 Location: Peoria, AZ Posts: 9,155	Re: Headers install tips? Cliff??? Remove the inner fenders for more room. __________________ GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V

02-04-2014	#8
mike100 Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: San Marcos CA Posts: 1,802	Re: Headers install tips? Cliff??? Getting the original manifolds off are the biggest challenge. You need to remove the fender liners as previously mentioned and some fasteners are easier to see with the engine raised up an inch or two so you need to take off the motor mount studs. I also found more room by removing the frame K-member reinforcements down below as well. The next biggest issue is the dipstick and then how to connect the rest of the pipes to the headers. There's a good amount of room to slap on the headers once the original parts are removed. The original manifolds only used 7 fasteners to attach to the head- you do not have to use all 16. basically you can't get them all unless the engine is out of the car...if you get about 10 or so, you should be fine. I had to retighten a few of mine about 2 times until the gasket was set from heat cycles. you need one o2 sensor extension on the p/s. It is the oddball 3-wire plug only used for a couple of years by GM until they went to 4-wire O2 sensors. I couldn't find an off-the-shelf unit so I made my own out of GM weather pack parts at Napa (I made a post somewhere about that I think). I also bough some heat sleeve for both O2 harnesses since the new pipes route differently and the O2 sensors are farther downstream exposing the wire harness a little more.

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