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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Speedway, IN
Posts: 135
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There have been many comments and options regarding LT Engine paint over the years. The original paint has not been available for several years, but if you are only seeking to match the appearance of the stock finish, Duplicolor Engine Paint in Cast Aluminum DE1650 is pretty available for $5-$6 per can at Advance Auto Parts.
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#2 |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 3,087
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Lingenfelter also sells the same shade of silver.Cant remember what I paid for a can but I do know it was alot more than $6.00.
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#3 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: pittsburgh
Posts: 4,624
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the black lettering is basic bbq black paint I've recently learned.
I really with they would have taken 15 seconds and cleared the damn motor prior to assembly
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It's not the car, it's the people - Doug Johnson 90 r/r "KEYS ON" nick named "T.L.B" |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chester, Virginia
Posts: 457
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I've seen the letters looking really good but I've been hesitant to paint them. How does everyone do it, with a fine artists small brush dipped carefully? I'm not a very good "finish" person so it's been left alone so far.
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#5 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 2,646
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Fill in the letters with what ever paint color you prefer then after a few hours wipe off the top surface with a neatly folded shop towel soaked in mineral spirits or paint thinner to remove the excess paint.
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Phil Wasinger 1994 Torch Red ZR-1 WAZOO Member George Braml Intake Last edited by Jagdpanzer; 02-27-2013 at 02:16 PM. |
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 1,453
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I'm right there with you Lance, I can't do the small detailed work like that. My guess would be a fine brush and just wipe any overlap paint quickly before it sets.
I removed my parts and sent them to the pro (Mark H.) and they came back looking awesome. Rich
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chester, Virginia
Posts: 457
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Jag,
Thanks. I will try that next time I have a little time. Mine are in good shape but could be crisper. I can try that with one and see if it's in my skill range. Sounds pretty doable to me given their countersunk nature. If I were a carpenter they would characterize me as a rough carpenter able to build floors and walls and roofs but would hire someone other than me to do the finish trim work on the house! |
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#8 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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I agree w/ Phil. I had good luck too brushing the paint in with an artist's brush (round, 1/8") and immediately wiped the excess off with a QTip dampenened with acitone (finger nail polish remover).
Far as Duplicolor goes, you will get some yellowing with the heat. I believe Lee has an alternate recommendtion. Last edited by Paul Workman; 02-27-2013 at 02:31 PM. |
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Chester, Virginia
Posts: 457
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Paul, et al,
I actually bought some q tips that are about 7 or 8" long on wood sticks which I use in the shop that would work for that. They are quite rigid which helps big handed oafs like me. The other tools recently bought I find handy especially with the work I've been doing on trim inside and the radio area over the tunnel where screws like to fall and hide is a 24" long extendable pointer with a nickel sized round magnetic head on it. I dropped one screw and it was blind down there but stuck that in and found it as it "clanked" to the magnet and probed further and found the other three missing screws from prior owner's who had dropped them in there. It is extremely handy. I also now have two 12" long forceps, one straight, one curved for extending my reach into small areas better than big hands. Cost on Amazon for the pair: $12. |
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#10 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 2,646
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I see Jerry now carries engine paint
http://jerrysgaskets.com/store2/root...roducts_id=658
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Phil Wasinger 1994 Torch Red ZR-1 WAZOO Member George Braml Intake |
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