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#1 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Northridge, CA
Posts: 1,454
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I happened to be reading an old (1989) ZR-1 magazine article
from England where they were testing the new ZR-1. They put the car through (their) paces to compare with other cars. The numbers weren't quite up to the Chevrolet reported numbers. As far as drag racing type times, they attributed this to Jim Ingles driving/testing abilities for Chevrolet. They didn't want to flog the car(s) that much. But this is my question: Jim Ingles was there in England with the cars. He demonstrated for them (evidently, numerous times with a great picture on the magazine cover) his warming up the tires burn-out technique. He would dump the clutch from moderate revs, THEN STEP ON THE BRAKE with his left foot while keeping the accelerator to the floor. They said he kept it up to redline for up to 10 sec. Never heard of this, just a line lock which only locks up the front wheels. Wouldn't this fry/wear out the rear brake pads? Stall the engine? ![]() ![]() ![]() PS: They also said he power shifted which they did not want to do. Last edited by tf95ZR1; 04-23-2012 at 08:26 PM. Reason: Wanted 2 |
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#2 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: pittsburgh
Posts: 4,624
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yes it wears the rear pads, no it doesn't stall the motor...if done correctly. this is how you do a standing burn out when you don't have a line lock
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It's not the car, it's the people - Doug Johnson 90 r/r "KEYS ON" nick named "T.L.B" |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: May 2011
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 2,466
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Install the Line lock, the parts are going to cost you about 150.00 and I have a cool way to wire it when you are ready so you dont have to buy a push button switch.
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Jupiter, Fl.
Posts: 813
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Heating them up without a line-loc is easy, once you get the feel of it.
Use second gear instead of first to spin them faster. Then lightly touch the brake (with left foot) to keep the car from rolling. Buzz them for 5-10 seconds, I just count to seven slowly. Then roll up to the line and stage. This is where you need your line-loc (good for .10 sec.) to lock those front wheels while you take the slack out of all the universal joints by just releasing the clutch enough to feel the pull on the rear tires. With good, sticky tires, hold the revs to 4K. When you see the last yellow light up, leave smoothly, don't dump the clutch. Once you're down under 2.0 seconds for the first 60ft., you are getting the feel of it. BTW, the "Jingles" technique that I've seen is to get the car rolling in reverse, then dump the clutch and fry the tires. Aaah, the luxury of beating the snot out of all these badass cars without owning them. |
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#5 | |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Cresson, TX
Posts: 970
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,156
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__________________
1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Shelby Series 1 - Wilwood Brakes Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#7 | |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,683
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#8 | |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Jupiter, Fl.
Posts: 813
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I forgot to mention the water. My technique is to drive around the water box, not through it, (don't want to get those big front tires wet and take water to the starting line), then back into the water to wet the rear tires only. Then forward so that you're not sitting in the water. Then light 'em up. This allows the tires to break traction easily, and when you let up on the brake they're rolling forward into the dry area. |
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#9 | |
![]() Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,314
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#10 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: pittsburgh
Posts: 4,624
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hey hey hey, what's wrong with pipes!
__________________
It's not the car, it's the people - Doug Johnson 90 r/r "KEYS ON" nick named "T.L.B" |
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