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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 23
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okay oh great gurus; my 90 has experienced a no crank when hot twice in the last week. drive 8 to 10 miles, turn off car for 15 to 30 minutes and then no crank. wait 30+ minutes and starts first time. when no crank all electric is fine...everything else works fine.
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Canada
Posts: 309
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Probably a bad solenoid in the starter motor.
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#3 |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: pittsburgh
Posts: 4,633
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Could be the clutch safety switch. Im on my phone now but I'll post the write up when I get home tonight
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It's not the car, it's the people - Doug Johnson 90 r/r "KEYS ON" nick named "T.L.B" |
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#4 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 23
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#5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 9,154
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My moneys on the clutch switch
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GOLDCYLON - 91 ZR-1 #2014 GOLDCYLON - 90 ZR-1 #2794, 4L60e (Formerly Schrade's) GOLDCYLON - 11 CTS-V Arizona State Director ![]() 91 WHITE/BLACK #2014. 380 P&P&PCed,Ported Heads, Jeal Long tubes, Corsa Exhaust/FIKSE FM-5s /LED TLs, LED Headlights, Front Wilwood 6 piston narrowlite calipers and rear Wilwood caliper street shop mod,CNCed Coolant Pipes,TPI Cvr,Filter cover,Stainless Bolts, DRM/DOM PROM /ZFDOC mod build #102,DRLs,BMAD with stainless Debris Screen,Coplan Air Blaster, Pioneer APP Radio 4,Brey-Krause HB,Sub Bar,Fire extinguisher seat mount,DRM Coilovers,LEDs everywhere,Compass mirror (orange),V1 DIC hidden display, Homelink sun visor, Carbon Fiber top x3 and APSIS Carbon Fiber interior, APSIS CF Steering Wheel/NAPA Leather, Banski trailing arms, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension) ZFDoc drive shaft safety loop, raptor shift light (orange),AO engineering louver front plate, Console seat cushion, 96CE seats with black custom Sheepskins, ss billet catch can,Viper remote entry/alarm,Cragar Rear Louvers,LED side louver lights, Dewitts Radiator with SPAL fans and a Woods 160 T-Stat 90 RED/BLACK #2794. 4L60e Automatic Stage V by RPM Transmission, TCI Dedicated TCM, OBX Stainless Headers, Corsa Exhaust, SAN Secondaries and Haibeck PROM, Exotic Muscle Coil overs, LED Interior Lights, LED Tail Lights, LED Headlights, 94 Sport seats with black custom Sheepskins , Cragar rear louvers, GS Front calipers, Banski Trailing arms, APSIS Carbon Fiber steering wheel, Front and Rear Baer Eradispeeds, DRLs, Guldstrand front suspension,urethane bushings from Prothane (total suspension), Dewitt's Raditor with Dual SPAL fans and a Haibeck 170 T-Stat 11 RED/GREY CTS-V |
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#6 | |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: pittsburgh
Posts: 4,633
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Pull driver’s side hush panel. Locate striped purple wire that goes to clutch switch. Look at switch and note the color of wire coming back up.(Yellow??) If you found them—the jumper will go from the Yellow to the purple stripe. You be able to jumper them right there without messing with that ##*!!$ clutch switch. I used a 3 in #12 wire with terminals (from Radio Shack number 64-3133) on the end and unplugged the wires going to switch and plugged in the jumper wire.
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It's not the car, it's the people - Doug Johnson 90 r/r "KEYS ON" nick named "T.L.B" |
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#7 |
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 1,648
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Ahhhhh,,,,,, the DNS.
My favorite topic. ![]() It's a common problem with the early cars. It was so bad that GM eventually changed the wiring harness. I suspect it's simply too much resistance that is temperature related somewhere in the circuit between the ignition key and the starter solenoid. It could be wire related (size or metallurgy) or simply mismatched components, who knows, it just plain happens. Hot restarts simply do not work until the car cools below a threshold temperature. You can chase the gremlin or you can bypass him. I highly recommend that you chase the gremlin first and report back if you find the cure. When you get tired of chasing the gremlin (as I did with no success) well then it's time to apply the DNS mod. DNS = Dreaded No Start TomC 'Crabs
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TomC '90ZR1 #792 Honorary Pirate [B]If it ain't FUN, you're doing something terribly WRONG. [/B] |
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#8 |
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: back in lone pine
Posts: 591
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to test the clutch relay just watch the volt meter when trying to crank the car .when the peddle is depressed the volt meter on the dash should move if it doesnt then the switch has either gone bad or moved .
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#9 | |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 23
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thanks everyone! ![]() |
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