Oil Pressure Gauge

[XfireZ51]

Guys,

I've been watching my oil pressure gauge during startup. When I first turn the key and start cranking, gauge bounces to 80 then bounces back towards 0, and then settles to operating pressure. Is this commonnor is it something to be concerned with?

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Guys,

I've been watching my oil pressure gauge during startup. When I first turn the key and start cranking, gauge bounces to 80 then bounces back towards 0, and then settles to operating pressure. Is this commonnor is it something to be concerned with?

Well, Dom, mine doesn't bounce around, far as I've noticed. The pressure sensor it the one one top of the oil filter housing - easy enough to change, if the connector itself is not at fault. AutoZone has 'em.

P.

[tomtom72]

Okay, this is a bit embarrassing but I watch my gauge like a hawk every time I start my car.....and no the gauge is at zero till the psi comes up. It doesn't even flicker when I turn the key to the "on" position.

I would suspect the sender maybe at fault? Or if the harness section for the senders has a grounding issue? What does the oil temp behave like at start?


Tom

[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

Okay, this is a bit embarrassing but I watch my gauge like a hawk every time I start my car.....and no the gauge is at zero till the psi comes up. It doesn't even flicker when I turn the key to the "on" position.

I would suspect the sender maybe at fault? Or if the harness section for the senders has a grounding issue? What does the oil temp behave like at start?


Tom

Guys,

The bouncing ONLY occurs at startup. I crank the motor, needle sweeps to 80, then sweeps back down, then back to 80. Once running and cruising it is fine
and registers proper pressure which is usually right at 60psi.
Could this have anything to do with the Oil Filter? I am
using a silver Fram TG

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Guys,

The bouncing ONLY occurs at startup. I crank the motor, needle sweeps to 80, then sweeps back down, then back to 80. Once running and cruising it is fine
and registers proper pressure which is usually right at 60psi.
Could this have anything to do with the Oil Filter? I am
using a silver Fram TG

I have run the gray fram TG filters and did not experience such an issue, I don't see how the filter could be related. I guess you could swap out the filter for a Bosch or whatever and see if the gauge problem goes away. $3 worth of oil plus the cost of a filter...

[Pete]

Time to change the oil sending unit.
It's common in some ZR-1's I had this a couple FBI Z's had this issue i was one of them.

It's cheap and worth to eliminate the sensor.

I have the tool if you need to change it.

Pete

[XfireZ51]

Pete,

Thanks for that. Sounds like it's the sensor then. I'll pick one up and work the swap into my fall oil change in October.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Guys,

I've been watching my oil pressure gauge during startup. When I first turn the key and start cranking, gauge bounces to 80 then bounces back towards 0, and then settles to operating pressure. Is this commonnor is it something to be concerned with?

No its time to replace the oil sending unit next to the oil filter housing and this is not normal. You will need a special very deep socket. Also depending upon replacement Neifoff etc the unit may be a different size than the one being removed. That has been my experience on my car. GC

[mgg]

Just curious guys, I noticed mine acting up the last time I took it to the drag strip. It would indicate pressure and then slowly ( about 5 seconds ) move to 0. The car was running and idle was fine. I decided not to chance it and did not run again after this occurred. Started the car back up everything was fine as if nothing happened. Has been fine ever since. I wondered if it could be a sending unit . Any thoughts. It is currently working perfectly

[Paul Workman]

They're cheap enough, and AZone will lend you the socket, free of charge. Can't beat that. I would want to make sure as I could that it wasn't a problem with the connection. I hate throwing parts at a problem, but in this case there isn't much to it; the sender (easy to eliminate) or the gauge (not so easy to fix) or a connection (somewhere in between, far as difficulty goes), IMO.

P.