TOP END REFINISHING

[carter200]

Originally Posted by Schrade

I was thinking of how to label the faces of the coolant pipes to break up the Red Gloss - they're kinda' obnoxious right now; got any snappics there carter?

Photochop ideas... first coat still smells like paint - still curing.

I can machine the coolant pipes as you have them marked but NOT the air horn. I have tried one with bad results. The coolant pipes would look great with my engraving done with my design and painted all black including the Bowie.

[carter200]

Originally Posted by Schrade

Could you work with my Red, with Yellow Bowtie, with Black LT 5?
http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1382166489

If not, how deep is the etch? I can do the Yellow myself, upon return here...

Sorry if this is 'mod' talk there Darryl, instead of top-end breakdown stuff; I'll get w/ Mr. C off boards...

Yellow and black will be fine.....

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by Schrade

Could you work with my Red, with Yellow Bowtie, with Black LT 5?
http://www.zr1.net/forum/attachment....1&d=1382166489

If not, how deep is the etch? I can do the Yellow myself, upon return here...

Sorry if this is 'mod' talk there Darryl, instead of top-end breakdown stuff; I'll get w/ Mr. C off boards...

I would know 'NOTHING... NOTHING' about mods

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

I would know 'NOTHING... NOTHING' about mods

What are mods????

[Schrade]

Starter. Another BEAR. Especially when you try to TIGHTEN, and not LOOSEN one of the bolts - dumbace

Double box wrench. Couldn't do diddly with torque wrench / 1/2" - 3/8" drive adapter / 8" ext / u-joint / 13mm - probably didn't have enough pieces in the sequence .



Separation



into the drink for a brush-off, then set to dry + Shop-Vac excess solvent.

[XfireZ51]

Deleted thumbnails.

[Franke]

Yep, I agree with Dyno. I think glycol anti freeze + heat will eat away at the paint over time. Its best to have the hoses clamped on to metal instead of paint in my opinion. You could try it and see but no warranties. They sure are purdy though.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Franke

Yep, I agree with Dyno. I think glycol anti freeze + heat will eat away at the paint over time. Its best to have the hoses clamped on to metal instead of paint in my opinion. You could try it and see but no warranties. They sure are purdy though.

I agree with Franke the pipes should not be painted where the hose clamps go.....Powder Coat OK but not paint. Then I would use a thin coat of Permatex inside the hose before I slip them on the pipes. Clamps as close to the raised ring on the end of the pipe as possible. Leave the paint on the portion of pipe up to where the clamp would be on the pipe.

[Dynomite]

Now do not move that AC compressor around too much without tying down the hose ends going into the Evaporator. You do NOT want any bending on those pipes going into the Evaporator or they could break like mine did

Oh.....on the painted pipes....I mean to say I would not have the hose clamp over a painted pipe.....Leave the paint on the portion of pipe up to where the clamp would be on the pipe. You can see with the SAMCO hose clamps being right next to the raised portion of the pipe.

Now on another point.....SAMCO Silicon hoses are more elastic and flexible with temperature than rubber hoses and I have had SAMCO hoses slip on me especially with Permatex on the pipe/inside the hose. I still use a bit of Permatex but am careful where I place the Hose Clamp.

Originally Posted by Schrade

Got it Cliff; once they cure, I can put a razor to the ends...

We'll try this with the A/C comp (this was LT1 cleanup)

[Schrade]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Now do not move that AC compressor around too much without tying down the hose ends going into the Evaporator. You do NOT want any bending on those pipes going into the Evaporator or they could break like mine did

Oh.....on the painted pipes....I mean to say I would not have the hose clamp over a painted pipe.....Leave the paint on the portion of pipe up to where the clamp would be on the pipe. You can see with the SAMCO hose clamps being right next to the raised portion of the pipe.

Now on another point.....SAMCO Silicon hoses are more elastic and flexible with temperature than rubber hoses and I have had SAMCO hoses slip on me especially with Permatex on the pipe/inside the hose. I still use a bit of Permatex but am careful where I place the Hose Clamp.

What is Permatex? I know the brand name, but which of their products are you referring to, for the coolant pipe-to-hose connection seals ?

I've always slipped hoses back on with silicone fluid, or Trans-X ...

(story about Trans-X - I had a 60k '89 T-Bird auto, bought for a song in '93, with Ford TSB tech service bulletin for the auto valve body seals, that made it skip second gear (I didn't know about it). AAMCO said $1k to rebuild. A FORD shop tech told me the known issue, said (quietly) put in a bottle of Trans-X. I did. In 4 - 5 shift cycles, first drive, it shifted PERFECT. Trans-X does wonders on latex.......... )