TB removal and then some!!!

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by gtcollins@maxnet.co.nz

Hi I would use a strong arm and socket on the nut with a spanner on the other side of it. If you could get 1200fl lbs on to the bolt it would break the bolt off you are losing the torque in the extension if it's super tight you may need a pipe on the strong arm you may need to remove the spring guard and spring if you can't get on to it.
When you put it back together put the bolt around the other way so you don't have to remove the k brase to get the bolt out

Regards Glen Collins



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Originally Posted by Jagdpanzer

I'm with Glen. Best done on a two post lift. First remove the shocks, spindle knuckles, spring guards and spring. If done on the floor or four post lift the front end must be jacked quite high to gain sufficient clearance for removing the spring. Glen advise for turning the bolts around is also spot on. Recommend using a spring compressor for safety sake. Otherwise be careful of the spring forces your dealing with.


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Hello Glen and Phil.....sorry for the delayed reply...as I have been out at the "Corvette Garage" working on the 74.....which has been keep me busy.... going to get back on the ZR-1 this afternoon and weekend.... I have watched another video where the front spring was not removed to remove the lower control arm.....I think all of the tension is off the spring on the driver's side as everything has been removed....as far as that k brace is....maybe I'm not seeing it correctly....but it doesn't seem like it can be removed....so going to try and remove the inner nut sides of the control arm as opposed to trying to remove the bolt from the outer head side.....we'll see what happens....thanking both of you for the replies and suggestions....very much appreciated....

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Image1638589392.100331.jpg


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[1991 Corvette ZR-1]

So what you can do with the lower A arm bolts is remove the nuts then take a ratchet and work the bolt on the loosen direction. While turning it, take a flat blade screw driver and push it under the head of the bolt and pry back towards you. The bolt should slowly come out. Once you have enough space behind it you can get some pliers around the shank and pull against the head of the bolt while still ratcheting the head as well and it should pop out in no time.

Just get the car up on jack stands at the lowest setting and that should be enough height to remove the lower A arm. The springs in the ZR-1 are pretty stiff so it will not curl down too far without any weight on it. The arm will only come down so far even without a spring there due to the design of the craddle.

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Attachment 16831


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That is great Craig...."And then Some".....

Originally Posted by 1991 Corvette ZR-1

So what you can do with the lower A arm bolts is remove the nuts then take a ratchet and work the bolt on the loosen direction. While turning it, take a flat blade screw driver and push it under the head of the bolt and pry back towards you. The bolt should slowly come out. Once you have enough space behind it you can get some pliers around the shank and pull against the head of the bolt while still ratcheting the head as well and it should pop out in no time.

Just get the car up on jack stands at the lowest setting and that should be enough height to remove the lower A arm. The springs in the ZR-1 are pretty stiff so it will not curl down too far without any weight on it. The arm will only come down so far even without a spring there due to the design of the craddle.

The 94 is on the Quickjacks....so it is high enough......great tips.... will definitely try this.....thanks....

[Roadster]

Been really busy lately with the 74 BB...as we're now test fitting the exhaust....but also need to get work done on the ZR-1....so this afternoon and evening I am getting the new rack and pinion ready for install...whenever that time will be...
since I'm using new tie rod ends... there wasn't any reason to disassemble the tie rods off the original rack....besides I needed the total length of the old rack to setup the new one and get as close as I could in the exact length....which I think I accomplished....the old rack measures 57" or 4" 9" from end-to-end and even though the circumstance of the new rod ends might be just a hair difference.... I also have the new rod setup exactly the same...so far so good....I also made sure to the best that I could that the distance from the inner ends of just beyond the rubber boot to the end of the tie rod are as close as they can be from the original rack to the new one....some pics....
Pic #1...original rack on the right... replacement rack on the left...
Pic #2...getting everything in adjustment....strange that on the passenger side of the rack I needed two adjustable wrenches to turn the tie rod. ..
Pic #3...but on the driver's side the tie rod screwed on by hand...
Pic #4...no way I was going to take apart the driver's side to get that rubber clamp cushion off the original and install on the new...
Pic #5...so I cut it to remove....
Pic #6...cleaned up the cushion and ready to install...should be good for another 30 years....
More pics in the next post....
20211211_200701.jpg20211211_200710.jpg20211211_200742.jpg20211211_200756.jpg20211211_201812.jpg20211211_202651.jpg

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[Roadster]

Pic #7...on the new rack and here's where you can see and tell the difference that the two racks are close in production of each other...but there is slight differences here and there.....that cushion does not fit squarely in that space like on the original rack..(or it could be that the rubber boot is not exactly in the same location as on the original rack)...so in order for the clamp to sit correctly....I have to do a slight mod on the cushion by cutting into the end of the rubber so the clamp will fit correctly....
Pic #8...for those who have followed this thread....you will know that I have repainted the plenum for the umpteenth time....there is one tiny flaw on the top...which I may attempt to correct....and then will clear it to get the same look I have on some of the engine and suspension parts....
Pic #9...test fitting the exhaust on the 74...
Pic #10...view from the rear.... plastic ties work really well to keep the pipes suspended and line up everything...back to work on that next week....20211211_203239.jpg20211211_203415.jpg20211209_161755.jpg20211209_161810.jpg

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[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Tom,
Again, as usual, beautiful work!
Hope you actually plan on driving it again once completed!
Will it be on the field at Carlisle in August?
Stay well and keep HAVING FUN!

Marty

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by DRM500RUBYZR-1

Tom,
Again, as usual, beautiful work!
Hope you actually plan on driving it again once completed!
Will it be on the field at Carlisle in August?
Stay well and keep HAVING FUN!

Marty

Hello Marty....thanks for the compliment....still more to do on both the 94 and the 74....and yes I am going to drive them....been long overdue....looking forward to making Carlisle this year....
Hope all is well with you....and I am having fun....even with doing 2 projects at the same time.....

[dredgeguy]

Tom,
Come down to Wazoo land this Sunday for our holiday lunch. It is posted in the Mid-Atlantic section. Would be great to see you, been a longtime!

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by dredgeguy

Tom,
Come down to Wazoo land this Sunday for our holiday lunch. It is posted in the Mid-Atlantic section. Would be great to see you, been a longtime!

Hello Charlie....today is Monday and obviously I just saw this....I appreciate the invite...although I would not have been able to make it as one of my Corvette friends developed Covid last week...and I was around him the week before... even though I tested negative with my home kit....I would have not wanted to take the chance to expose anyone else....crazy times for sure...
Still working on the Z as you can see and will be great to see the rest of WAZOO again in the future....it has been a long time....[emoji16][emoji16]

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