LT5 Assembly Project

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Lee, I have the same issue with my defective rear tires. After Pete's work, I just can't keep them from spinning every single time I drive it!!!!!!

[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by Blue Flame Restorations

Lee, I have the same issue with my defective rear tires. After Pete's work, I just can't keep them from spinning every single time I drive it!!!!!!

Brett,

It sounds like your really complaining about all that power. Pull a couple of
plug wires!

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Brett,

It sounds like your really complaining about all that power. Pull a couple of
plug wires!

It's just aweful!!! Makes me want more cubes.....

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by LGAFF

drove the car 320 miles the last 2 days, runs great....biggest issue is that these tires will never hook; gun it from a roll and the car kicks alittle sideways and burns them up....hope the dyno numbers match the seat of pants o meter.


BLMs at cruise are 116 and 128 at WOT

CONGRATS Lee! It sounds great and I know what you mean with new found power. I'm heading for Nitto NT05Rs to see how they hook up.

[XfireZ51]

Lee,

Sounds like we need to add fuel at idle and lean out cruise. BLMs will always show 128 at WOT because you are now in Open Loop. WB O2 is only way of telling what AFR is at that point.

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by LGAFF

drove the car 320 miles the last 2 days, runs great....biggest issue is that these tires will never hook; gun it from a roll and the car kicks alittle sideways and burns them up....hope the dyno numbers match the seat of pants o meter.


BLMs at cruise are 116 and 128 at WOT

Isn't 116 a bit on the fat side for cruise?

I thought that you need to remove fuel to get to 128.. I always forget, since I have a program I created that does it automatically I never remember the actual formula without looking at my code... LOL

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Lee,

Sounds like we need to add fuel at idle and lean out cruise. BLMs will always show 128 at WOT because you are now in Open Loop. WB O2 is only way of telling what AFR is at that point.

Dom,
What do you recommend for someone wanting to add WB O2 to their car and do you need to install dual bungs and have dual O2 sensors?
Thanks,
Craig

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Dom,
What do you recommend for someone wanting to add WB O2 to their car and do you need to install dual bungs and have dual O2 sensors?
Thanks,
Craig

for an accurate reading, before the Cats.. if you can I feel 2 are better then one..

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

for an accurate reading, before the Cats.. if you can I feel 2 are better then one..

Thanks Jeff. I thought so and a friend said only 1 side really needed but it seemed you need two because even now with tuning it was found I have a problem on the right side with leak causing lean conditions. When I put my headers back in and install X pipe etc. I thought a good time to have the shop put bungs in even if I plug them for now, but could use when doing the dyno tune with WB O2s. I found one the Innovate system with dual O2s, but very pricey.

[LGAFF]

out in the country/corn fields this morning on the way to work.....stopped revd it to 3K dropped the clutch and the car did a water box style burnout without using the brake, just sat and smoke the tires....lovin the car...

Every Z needs porting and cams...