07-29-2021 | #41 |
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Beautiful Bavaria
Posts: 523
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Re: New ZR-1. New Issue. Stalling Once Warm.
Your Code 61 indicates trouble in the Secondaries system, probably because there is a vacuum leak avoiding the ports to open properly. Is the vacuum pump (located in the very front right corner under the hood) running at startup for a few seconds and then cycling every few seconds? If not it may already be stuck or burnt, if yes and it keeps running there is a vacuum leak.
As far as the injectors are concerned you will find a good guide how to measure their resistance here: http://zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles%20index.htm Marc's page is generally a great source of highly valuable information and so is Marc himself of course. You may consider his service to resolve your issues. If your car shows injector issues these have to be resolved immediately as faulty injectors can cause a lot of trouble down the road. Again, good luck! Sent from my SM-G991B using ZR-1 Net Registry mobile app
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ZR-1 #638/1991 |
07-29-2021 | #42 | |
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 84
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Re: New ZR-1. New Issue. Stalling Once Warm.
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As far as start a procedure: If I turn on the car but not the ignition, there is a clunk coming from the front of the car. It cycles about every three seconds. For at least 25 to 30 seconds it does not stop. I don't know how long it would continue beyond that. I would compare the clunk noise to the dull cocking of a rifle. Last edited by Atari_Prime; 07-29-2021 at 01:02 PM. |
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07-29-2021 | #43 | |
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 84
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Re: New ZR-1. New Issue. Stalling Once Warm.
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07-29-2021 | #44 |
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Beautiful Bavaria
Posts: 523
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Re: New ZR-1. New Issue. Stalling Once Warm.
Codes are in the shop manual (which I highly recommend) in the Central Control Module (CCM) diagnosis section (and in the article linked earlier). However I'm speaking about a 91, maybe it's different in your 94 case. In my case it was a faulty secondary vacuum selenoid and stuck check valve leading to an inoperable pump which in turn leads to a lack of vacuum at persisting WOT condition in high gear acceleration (4th+). Then the engine control sets a rev limit, too.
As said you can easily verify the correct vacuum operation by monitoring the pump (or pull the vacuum line off the pump and hook up a manually operated pump to see how well vacuum is held) When your car is that low mile (like mine is, only 18.5k mls of which the last 1000 took 10 years) it's recommendable to first fully service everything and then carefully wake her up. I found a lot of issues, oil & vacuum leaks, defect sensors, selenoids, Stone Age fluids etc. If the secondary system was never used it's very likely that the secondary intake section is packed with deposits and needs to be carefully cleaned by driving with secondaries active for an extended period. I just pulled my plenum to fix that defective selenoid and took the chance to inspect primary and secondary intake valves with an endoscopic camera. There is A LOT of deposits though they actually were used. Primaries instead a super clean. Again, given that I just made the same experiences like you, I really recommend to work though the car first and then put load on her.
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ZR-1 #638/1991 Last edited by Matt B; 07-29-2021 at 07:50 AM. |
07-29-2021 | #45 | |
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 84
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Re: New ZR-1. New Issue. Stalling Once Warm.
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I have read through the article prior, that's where the info about the ECM codes not being visible comes from. And I couldn't find code 61, strange. A local club member had some simple advice for me that wasn't too far off of one of your recommendations. He said to put in some injector cleaner and go drive it for an hour at freeway speeds and then put another bottle and do it again. Soon I am going to try to change out the serpentine belt. Hopefully won't be too difficult if I can figure out the tensioner. |
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07-30-2021 | #46 |
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 84
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Re: New ZR-1. New Issue. Stalling Once Warm.
I found some more codes, but not 100% sure they are correct for the year.
Some information indicates the following: H58 (EBCM Assembly fault) H83 (low brake fluid) ...what is an EBCM? Electronic Brake Control Module? Anyway, going to check the fuses, and have the brake fluid flushed on Monday. Hopefully be able to pull more codes too with a reader. Maybe some tests will show what's up. |
07-30-2021 | #47 |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Mullica Hill, New Jersey
Posts: 2,593
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Re: New ZR-1. New Issue. Stalling Once Warm.
It is exactly what I expected to be problematic.
THE EBTCM essentially pumps the brakes to avoid lockup in a panic stop and depending upon year, assists in traction control. Your first two posts (although difficult to track due to multiple threads), clearly stated that you sensed the brakes were on. Congratulations, you were correct. Change out the fluid using the procedure in the FSM doing so carefully. I would also inspect or replace your brake hoses and carefully evaluate the performance of your master cylinder as well as the EBCM. Hopefully overheated brake pads were causing your smell, which may also need to be replaced due to the overheating. Again overheated clutch or brake linings have a distinctive odor. Correct these things before moving on to engine performance issues. Keep us posted on findings and progress. Marty |
07-31-2021 | #48 | |
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 305
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Re: New ZR-1. New Issue. Stalling Once Warm.
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