Plenum Pull...Parts List Varification...

[| 1990 ZR-1 |]

Originally Posted by Z51JEFF

I didnt see anybody comment about coolant.You might need to drain about a half gallon.It would be interesting to see what everybody thinks is the biggest pain in the *** about doing this job.Ive done it 6 times and the one part I dread the most is getting the spark unit plugged in.You can check the secondaries with the plenum off.You need to hook up the fuel rails,make sure it is completely tight,no leaks.There is a pink wire at the second plug at the ECM I think.With the key on,ground this wire and the secondaries will open.If you want to check this out let me know and Ill check out a DVD I have that has the info on the system checks.One other item thats important,clean out the drain hole at the rear of the valley.This is to keep from flooding the starter.Its a small hole maybe about the size of a 1/4-20 bolt.Its been awhile so not sure on the size.

Thanks Jeff. I read about draining the coolant. I also already checked the secondary falvew with the plenum on. They seem to work fine.

Should I replace the drive belt? I'm assuming it's a litte easier to do so with the plenum off.

[A26B]

Originally Posted by | 1990 ZR-1 |

The FIC injectors will be here tomorrow, and if Jerry's gaskets get here before the weekend, I'm hoping ot be done by the end of this weekend.

Your gasket/seal order should be delivered to you tomorrow as well.

[| 1990 ZR-1 |]

Originally Posted by A26B

Your gasket/seal order should be delivered to you tomorrow as well.

Great news Jerry! Thanks for the confirmation.

[ittlfly]

Originally Posted by Z51JEFF

I didnt see anybody comment about coolant.You might need to drain about a half gallon.It would be interesting to see what everybody thinks is the biggest pain in the *** about doing this job.Ive done it 6 times and the one part I dread the most is getting the spark unit plugged in.You can check the secondaries with the plenum off.You need to hook up the fuel rails,make sure it is completely tight,no leaks.There is a pink wire at the second plug at the ECM I think.With the key on,ground this wire and the secondaries will open.If you want to check this out let me know and Ill check out a DVD I have that has the info on the system checks.One other item thats important,clean out the drain hole at the rear of the valley.This is to keep from flooding the starter.Its a small hole maybe about the size of a 1/4-20 bolt.Its been awhile so not sure on the size.

Jeff...didn't I see somewhere that someone had used a slightly larger drill bit to enlarge the drain hole slightly to make the draining easier?? Or was I just smoking my own shorts.

[tomtom72]

Originally Posted by ittlfly

Jeff...didn't I see somewhere that someone had used a slightly larger drill bit to enlarge the drain hole slightly to make the draining easier?? Or was I just smoking my own shorts.

I think there is a mod that makes another hole near the original one, bigger of course, and at an angle so the effluent runs down behind the flywheel unless you fab up a drain pipe like the OEM pipe. I never did that trick when I did my clean up. I just don't know if it would matter.

Gary, re your serp belt Q. Do you see any cracking on the ribbed side, on the smooth side? Is it chaffed at the edges? Do you know how old it is? I changed my OEM/BG one when I got my car in the winter of 04-05. It looked fine but it was 14.5 yrs old & had 7400 miles on it. I'm changing out the replacement shortly because it has gone 38k miles and it's 6 yrs old....jez I've had my car that long! Time flies when you're having fun I guess!....they are expensive. If it breaks I kind of doubt that the old nylon trick will work to get you home. JMHO.


Tom

[Z51JEFF]

Originally Posted by | 1990 ZR-1 |

Thanks Jeff. I read about draining the coolant. I also already checked the secondary falvew with the plenum on. They seem to work fine.

Should I replace the drive belt? I'm assuming it's a litte easier to do so with the plenum off.

The belt is an easy job with the plenum on,providing you get the right belt.Theres one belt,might be a Gates not sure that would not go on the car regardless of what I tried.The Goodyear belt went on the car no problem.As far as the drain hole,Ive read about people opening it up abit,I just cleaned it out and ran some water in the valley to make sure it was completely clear.

[| 1990 ZR-1 |]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

I think there is a mod that makes another hole near the original one, bigger of course, and at an angle so the effluent runs down behind the flywheel unless you fab up a drain pipe like the OEM pipe. I never did that trick when I did my clean up. I just don't know if it would matter.

Gary, re your serp belt Q. Do you see any cracking on the ribbed side, on the smooth side? Is it chaffed at the edges? Do you know how old it is? I changed my OEM/BG one when I got my car in the winter of 04-05. It looked fine but it was 14.5 yrs old & had 7400 miles on it. I'm changing out the replacement shortly because it has gone 38k miles and it's 6 yrs old....jez I've had my car that long! Time flies when you're having fun I guess!....they are expensive. If it breaks I kind of doubt that the old nylon trick will work to get you home. JMHO.


Tom

Tom, the belt definitely looks old and is cracked, so I'll pick one up from Autozone and will swap it out.

BTW. I took the plenum off last night in less than 30 minutes!! I think I was so nervous that I overprepared and just carefully followed the FSM steps. My garage looked like a surgery room with all the right tools layed out strategically. It's a mess under there, so I have a alot of cleaning up to do tonight, and I'm hoping to finish everything up tomorrow since I'm off.

Quick queston regardinh the "drain hole" you guys keep referring to. Where exactly is it located?

[ittlfly]

Originally Posted by | 1990 ZR-1 |

Tom, the belt definitely looks old and is cracked, so I'll pick one up from Autozone and will swap it out.

BTW. I took the plenum off last night in less than 30 minutes!! I think I was so nervous that I overprepared and just carefully followed the FSM steps. My garage looked like a surgery room with all the right tools layed out strategically. It's a mess under there, so I have a alot of cleaning up to do tonight, and I'm hoping to finish everything up tomorrow since I'm off.

Quick queston regardinh the "drain hole" you guys keep referring to. Where exactly is it located?

It's under the starter.

[tomtom72]

Originally Posted by | 1990 ZR-1 |

Tom, the belt definitely looks old and is cracked, so I'll pick one up from Autozone and will swap it out.

BTW. I took the plenum off last night in less than 30 minutes!! I think I was so nervous that I overprepared and just carefully followed the FSM steps. My garage looked like a surgery room with all the right tools layed out strategically. It's a mess under there, so I have a alot of cleaning up to do tonight, and I'm hoping to finish everything up tomorrow since I'm off.

Quick queston regardinh the "drain hole" you guys keep referring to. Where exactly is it located?

Good job! The drain hole is exactly where ittlfly said.

[| 1990 ZR-1 |]

Gentlemen, the beast is back!!

I finally finished everything up over this weekend, and what a difference! I believe my secondary injectors were pretty gummed up and were not operating properly. Now I definitely feel a difference between Normal and Full Power modes. I took her for a test drive the roads were slightly damp, and at 50 mph in 3rd gear the rear tires broke loose!! The power is definitely back, and the engine sounds strong and healty. It revs up very quickly, feels very responssive and light on it's feet. Now I just need to detail her and get her ready for the May 14th car show in Medford.

Special thanks to Tom for all his help and for being patient with me. Also thanks to everyone else who contributed to this thread.

Here's what I've done this weekend.

1. Replaced Primary and Secondary injectors with FIC Lucas Disc type injectors (very impressed with their packaging btw, primary and second injectors were in their own protective boxes clearly marked "Primary" and "Secondary", and each box contained a hand written flow chart. All injector O rings were included.

2. Removed the coil packs and the starter, and cleaned out the valley from debris and oil. The coils, the starter, and the stock wires are in great condition and look brand new once cleaned, therefore I chose not replace them at this time.

3. Blew through the drain hole with compressor (no debris there). I did not want to drill a secondary drain hole since I don't want any water or oil to leak on to the bell housing. IMO the stock drain hole is big enough in case a little bit of water gets in there, and I like how there is a drain tube connected to it that drains everything out from under the transmission housing.

4. Tightened the IH bolts to 20 lbs. They were very loose.

5. Zip tied all secondary vacuum connections for better seal. The vacuum was holding up well prior to this, but now it holds even longer.

5. Assembled the plenum and fuel lines with Jerry's Gasket and O ring set (great fit and fast shipping)

6. Replaced the spark plugs with AC Delco Part # 41-602 from AutoZone. Set the gap to .035

7. Replaced the drive belt with Dayco Belt Part # 5060805 from AutoZone

8. Replaced the Fuel Filter with Part # FF3504 from AutoZone

9. Changed the oil and oil filter with Amsoil AMO 10w40 Synthetic (2.5 gallons), and Bosch filter part # 3401

10. Ordered new Tires to be able to put the power down onto the pavement!! Nitto NT05 Summer Maximum Performance. Stock front and rear measurements. Will be delivered this Tuesday.

Quick note:
After everything was assembled and when I started the car, it still idled roughly. I was basically having the same symptoms as before. It was #6 injector again. It wasn?t "ticking" at which point I could only assume that there was no power getting to it. I traced my steps back to when I was measuring the injector resistance and thought that maybe I bent the ECM connector A8 (#6 cyl) with the pin I used, and now there was no contact. Sure enough that?s exactly what the issue was. So technically all my original primary injectors were fine including #6. It would have been a weird coincidence if #6 injector died right after I measured the resistance. So a word of caution, do not stick a large pin into the ECM connector when measuring the injector resistance. Otherwise you?re taking a chance of loosening the connections.