Whats going to go out first,master cylinder or slave..............

[Z51JEFF]

Tom and everybody,thanks for the tips.

[tomtom72]

Originally Posted by Z51JEFF

Tom and everybody,thanks for the tips.

Not a problem Jeff! That is what we are all about.

Just another fwiw. Not that this isn't obvious, but you can use a small grinder to dress the back side of the mounting ears on the cast slave cylinder so enough threads show for the nuts to grab well. If you grind till the thickness is reduced by 1/2 it looks like it could be good to go. I may find out this weekend if the weather holds to the forecast....it'll be "work outside" nice! In any event I'll post my results.


Tom

[Dynomite]

Just tell me where I can get a GOOD Master Clutch Cylinder and Clutch Slave Cylinder

Originally Posted by Z51JEFF

The brake fluid can be DOT-3 or DOT-4.

Which do you use for clutch.....DOT-3 or DOT-4. I think DOT-4 is required for brakes....is that correct?

DOT 4 has higher temp specs (dry/wet boiling points) that will cut fade chances over DOT 3 if you do HD driving (mountains, trailer pulling, tracking the car), otherwise there is no difference between DOT 3 and DOT 4.

[tomtom72]

Cliff,

The cast units I just bought I bought at RockAuto.com. They were cast types. Now they only list one slave and mine seems to be out of stock. It was a wagoner cast type slave. The only one that they seem to have right now is the DOM type packaged by Dorman.

The master is a wagoner cast type master cylinder, CM120165 = P/N.


Tom

The weather will be nice this weekend so I will have a punch list to do. While I'm at it I will try my best to take pictures of my block numbers and the Oil Pan (?) numbers, or is it the Girdle number(?) I'm looking for?

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by tomtom72

Cliff,

The cast units I just bought I bought at RockAuto.com. They were cast types. Now they only list one slave and mine seems to be out of stock.

Tom

Originally Posted by Z51JEFF

Id look everywhere before I bought anything from thepartsladi again but I do like there guarantee, I do not know a single vendor (including those on this forum) for which someone at sometime has not had what they call a bad experience find a part elsewhere for a cheaper price and we will TRY and beat it. Best price so far for AC Delco is $58 for the master and $80 for the slave but Ive only just now starting looking into this.

I like thepartsladi for speed and shipping to my door. I have never had any issues with thepartsladi

Tom: The Slave shown here on Ebay is a cast version (and for ZR1) and I can only assume it is what you have

The Master shown here is for a C4 (L98) but is the same as that for a ZR1?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400082402981&viewitem= &sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350265573292&viewitem= &sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Also, I have often wondered beside the obvious engine differences, what are the other differences between a 1990 C4 (L98) and a 1991 ZR1. What is interchangeable?

The clutch slave and master seem to be identical as well as the tops for example. Are the lights/light motors the same and what other parts are interchangeable?

[tomtom72]

Cliff,

Just to clear this is what I believe to be the facts about ZR-1 vs L98/LT1/LT4 hydraulic clutch parts....no difference among the masters. The slaves I think are not different mechanically. The rub seems to be with the ZR-1's bell housing slave cylinder mounting stud length, our studs seem to be shorter vs the other motors. That difference I believe to be the issue in using a cast slave as the studs on a Z's bell housing are not long enough. I have to admit that the issue about the length of the studs is purely guess work on my part. I do know that the hydraulic system is the same on C4's with a zf box.

As to your other Q about what other parts are swappable? I should think anything except for our specific body parts, door skins, rockers, wheel house liners, 1/4 panels, rear bumper, side moldings, backup lights & lic plate frame, transmission input shaft collar & T/O bearing & clutch fork & pivot. That's off the top of my knuckle head...


Tom

[Z51JEFF]

Thomas,did you ever get these installed?Im going to do this here pretty soon and just might buy the Wagner parts.One question,can the old slave and master...........that just doesnt sound right................be pulled out of the car intact without removing the hose?I dont like the idea of dripping brake fluid.When I get ready to do this Im going to come back and revisit this thread looking for some tips.

[tomtom72]

Hi Jeff, no I never got around to my car....till today, later in the afternoon I'm going to do my punch list. R&R master & slave, and new water pump hose & new serp belt and replace all my screw clamps with the OE clamps on all the cooling hoses, and r&r the plenum cooling hoses, and knock sensor....

I've been distracted helping Lou with his Z, and also a lack of motivation on my part to do much on my car.....I guess I'm not liking working "al fresco" too much now a days.......it used to be okay when I was in my 20's...spoiled I guess.

I don't really see how you can get the slave up past the exhaust system, but I could be dead wrong on that. I never thought about it to tell the truth.

Usually I just use paper towels to drain the M/C because it ain't much. Break the line and put a cut off water bottle under it & let it drain while I slide under and work on getting the line off at the slave and the nuts off of the slave mounting studs. With the line open @ the M/C, the line & slave drain pretty fast.

If you have a mity-vac you could hook it up to the slave's bleeder and suck all the fluid out from there. I have all these spare bleeders from the old slaves that I use to plug the M/C's line bung and the slave's line bung that I never give it much thought about spilling fluid at either end.


Tom

[Z51JEFF]

I just got the new parts,dissapointed to find out MADE IN CHINA but they look exact as every other cast part Ive seen,had I known these were MADE IN CHINA I would have looked for U.S. made.Ill start on this job this week sometime,Ive got a one car garage so its always a challenge.Anybody want picture of anything?

[GOLDCYLON]

Hmm mine was made in the United Kingdom did you go with a different seller? GC