Winter storage

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Originally Posted by ghlkal

FWIW ... I've stopped using a fuel stabilizer. I used to put it in my cars and small engines (generator, lawn mower), but I always had a hard time starting them in the Spring. I began using Seafoam and haven't had any issues starting in the Spring.

Although I store my Z with a full tank, I've heard people comment that GM recommends less than a half tank. It has something to do with the sending unit. IDK

I start my Z up once a month in the winter and get it to operating temperature.

Obviously YMMV

I have not heard of this suggested procedure for C-4's.
The sending unit is rather similar to earlier cars, and absent someone who has seen such a service bulletin or suggested procedure, I have always preferred to keep that entire unit immersed in gasoline, so as to minimize the chance of rust forming on it, when it sits in air as opposed to fuel.

What I also suspect, again not certain, but suspect, is GM has suggested that C-5's with fuel sensors in the tank are prone to sulfur contamination from the fuel, and therefore might benefit from nor being in contact with the fuel if left sitting for long periods.
The sulfur coats the sensor causing erratic fuel level indication.
GM suggests using Chevron fuel treatment with Techron as a remedy or preventative measure. It has shown an ability to remove the sulfur coating enough to restore the sensors accuracy in a number of cases, as well as to prevent it from getting contaminated.

My suspicion, is that C-5 situation, over time, has co-mingled to other generations, and become like folklore, albeit, erroneously.

Full tank, therefore, seems best for C-4's and older cars, and using "something" to reduce or eliminate the propensity of fuel to become varnish, also seems like a great idea.
Lastly, the alcohol in today's fuels introduces another set of concerns, which again may benefit from some of the treatments already mentioned.

I have admitted in the past, that I once put the Ruby away, thinking it would be for a couple of months. It turned into two years, and I had done nothing other than a full tank of gas. (OK, so shoot me).
When I finally rolled it out and hooked up a battery pack to it, I went to just bump the key to just turn it over, and that LT-5 fired right up, like I had just parked it an hour ago.
Again, not recommending that storage mistake, but til this day I remain amazed at that, and still find it hard to believe!

In the end, storage procedures are akin to discussing religion and politics.
Everyone believes what they believe, and few will change their minds absent some hard facts.

I will close with this. Having seen very many examples of low mile cars that have been in repeated winter storage, fuel seems to be the least of the problems.
What I see far too often, are cars that are left in, I guess, older garages, where there is no vapor barrier beneath the concrete. Cars that are stored in those conditions are beautiful when you look at them from the topside.
You then put them up on the lift, and the disappointment is immediate.
Everything metal is a mess! Rust, corrosion, etc, everywhere you look.

9 out of 10 of my buyers today, now insist on pictures of the undercarriage, especially when they are buying from pictures and not coming to inspect the car in person.
Let's just say far more value is lost from that undercarriage condition than from fuel storage.
While it may not be good to trap the moisture in or on the concrete for mold or other reasons or issues, just know that if something is not done, you need to treat those metallic pieces somehow, if you want to preserve maximum value of your toys.

It is sad to see a low mile well preserved car with extensive and expensive damage underneath due to it sitting in such conditions.

Might as well have driven it in the snow and salt!


Marty

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by DRM500RUBYZR-1

Having seen very many examples of low mile cars that have been in repeated winter storage, fuel seems to be the least of the problems.
What I see far too often, are cars that are left in, I guess, older garages, where there is no vapor barrier beneath the concrete. Cars that are stored in those conditions are beautiful when you look at them from the topside.
You then put them up on the lift, and the disappointment is immediate.
Everything metal is a mess! Rust, corrosion, etc, everywhere you look.

9 out of 10 of my buyers today, now insist on pictures of the undercarriage, especially when they are buying from pictures and not coming to inspect the car in person.
Let's just say far more value is lost from that undercarriage condition than from fuel storage.
While it may not be good to trap the moisture in or on the concrete for mold or other reasons or issues, just know that if something is not done, you need to treat those metallic pieces somehow, if you want to preserve maximum value of your toys.

It is sad to see a low mile well preserved car with extensive and expensive damage underneath due to it sitting in such conditions.

Might as well have driven it in the snow and salt!


Marty

Marty........I think the condensation under a ZR-1 has less to do with a vapor barrier and more to do with a very cold concrete floor that remains cool for a long time after the ambient temperatures have risen. The warmer air carries more moisture under the car where that air is rapidly cooled and moisture condenses on any surface available and in this case the undercarriage of the ZR-1. The MATS prevent that cold floor from cooling the warmer air under the ZR-1 and the condensation is prevented.

Any very cold unheated concrete floor will exhibit the same conditions. The higher the undercarriage is from the floor seems to reduce the condensation as shown in the photo below whereas a Toyota Tacoma does not suffer the same situation as it has about twice the undercarriage clearance as do the ZR-1s.

A moisture barrier will not stop a concrete floor from sweating. It will stop the mitigation of ground water through a slab if done correctly. Sweating is caused by a combination of concrete temperature and weather conditions. If the concrete is cold enough and the temperature and humidity high enough the slab will sweat, regardless of a barrier.

[ghlkal]

Originally Posted by DRM500RUBYZR-1

What I also suspect, again not certain, but suspect, is GM has suggested that C-5's with fuel sensors in the tank are prone to sulfur contamination from the fuel, and therefore might benefit from nor being in contact with the fuel if left sitting for long periods.


My suspicion, is that C-5 situation, over time, has co-mingled to other generations, and become like folklore, albeit, erroneously.

Yes, I remember the C5 issue and it may well be that it has been applied to the C4 erroneously.

It's hard to get good, solid answers, isn't it?

[Tripler]

Our garage is asphalt . Will we have the same issues as a concrete slab garage with condensation or moisture ? I am thinking perhaps not because asphalt is porous to some extent tho the winter time may make it's characteristics more concrete like .

[BigJohn]

Asphalt gets sticky in hot sun!

[rush91]

This is what I have always been told about fuel injected cars....... Clear your windows of ice / frost, and be on your way.

http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cult...m-up-your-car/

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by rush91

This is what I have always been told about fuel injected cars....... Clear your windows of ice / frost, and be on your way.

http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cult...m-up-your-car/

I Like it

[BigJohn]

All I get on that link is a Reesie's advertisement!

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by BigJohn

All I get on that link is a Reesie's advertisement!

Link works fine here

Here's the Real Reason You Should Never Warm Up Your Car
It takes longer, wastes fuel, and actually increases the wear and tear on your engine

[Ami Workman]

Originally Posted by BigJohn

All I get on that link is a Reesie's advertisement!

I was able to open the article, no problem ☺