Alternator going bad?

[-=Jeff=-]

I bought a 140A Stator and a rebuild kit ( Bearings, brushes, rectifier and regulator) with a few bit and pieces.. I will assemble everything in the one Alternator I have apart.. then assemble when I get the one off the car.. unless I find a good price on a failed one (I need the rotor and a way to get mine off the housing

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

I bought a 140A Stator and a rebuild kit ( Bearings, brushes, rectifier and regulator) with a few bit and pieces.. I will assemble everything in the one Alternator I have apart.. then assemble when I get the one off the car.. unless I find a good price on a failed one (I need the rotor and a way to get mine off the housing

Please take pics and keep us informed how it goes. I am interested in the 140A version as I have a spare to rebuild.
As posted before, I did a rebuild with a kit with lower amp diodes.
Alternator Rebuild

[-=Jeff=-]

yeah I am looking forward to getting the pieces

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by scottfab

Please take pics and keep us informed how it goes. I am interested in the 140A version as I have a spare to rebuild.
As posted before, I did a rebuild with a kit with lower amp diodes.
Alternator Rebuild

what size wrench for the front keepers? that has to come off/ loose before removing the rotor?

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

I bought a 140A Stator and a rebuild kit ( Bearings, brushes, rectifier and regulator) with a few bit and pieces.. I will assemble everything in the one Alternator I have apart.. then assemble when I get the one off the car.. unless I find a good price on a failed one (I need the rotor and a way to get mine off the housing

If you find a later core you want to look for a "tapered collar" that was used for pulley retention. A conventional attempt to remove with a puller will only tighten the grip. Later Cadillac and few trucks I believe. You would see it when the nut is removed.

[-=Jeff=-]

later rotor will not work due to the difference of bearings in the back housing

[WVZR-1]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

later rotor will not work due to the difference of bearings in the back housing

Yes I believe the later rotors had 17mm shaft and you could use an earlier rotor in them with a bearing race but of course not the other way. I had a couple technicians that always built their alternator needs from my cores for their personal use and I had a pretty good understanding of the internals for many years. In '92 we quit offering pieces for anything newer and everything was a "hands on" for familiarity.

In about an hour maybe just a bit more they'd have an alternator built from 2, have it checked and I'd have my cores back assembled. I don't remember buying an alternator for myself either. Used a few new parts but never an alternator.

It's also difficult to relate to early and late CS144 because all LT5's are referred to as early but on the drive end only a '90 is shown as having the bearing retained by the three screw plate and '91 is show as using the other style retainer with no screws when you break down the production number. I'd be interested in having a production number directly off of a '95 alternator (not a service number but a real production one). There's the rotor dimension, the spacing either 89mm or 93mm I believe of the center to the foot mounting hole also to be considered for some. Then when the battery was moved inside the car on the Cadillacs and Oldsmobiles the regulators changed because of the cable run.

[FU]

Dave (WVZR-1) your incredible.

[-=Jeff=-]

Alternator died in it today. good thing I was a mile from home..

gauge dropped to about 10ish volts and stayed there, guess my ZR-1 will NOT be at Marc's on Sunday

[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

Alternator died in it today. good thing I was a mile from home..

gauge dropped to about 10ish volts and stayed there, guess my ZR-1 will NOT be at Marc's on Sunday

So now you know.