Update on my hi-miler Z project

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by VetteMed

Found the large diameter vacuum hose disconnected from the check valve. This supplies vacuum to the HVAC system and the cruise control system. Reconnected, along with a ziptie and some silicone adhesive.

Still had that nagging rough idle... until I realized the sloppy fit of the brake booster hose at the plenum nipple. I fit a hose clamp there, snugged it down, and voila, smooth idle!

Very nice find Andrew!!! Any photos of these areas?

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Very nice find Andrew!!! Any photos of these areas?

Unfortunately, I didn't snap a picture... I'll do so the next time the plenum is off The brake booster line is self-explanatory I think

[cvette98pacecar]

Originally Posted by ZZZZZR1

Wow love that integration!!!

I would love to do that with my Z but where do you put the head unit?

I hit my display in the rear view mirror in the BMW. (with help from Yun)




Also love the headliner install!!!!! Impressive!

David

Very impressive.

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Mine rides the hump behind the IP and points out the solar cutout (there is a flat spot there) and I carry an extra hat to conceal if officer friendly shows up. I dont like my concealed display location. It would be nice if we could cut out a portion of the DIC and insert from the backside of the cover.

That was my first thought, to leave it really 100% concealed behind the DIC. However, then the mute button becomes inaccessible, AND, the faceplate of the V1 concealed display is convex, which makes for some challenges in mounting behind a flat piece of plastic. So, I went for what I thought was the next best thing...

[tf95ZR1]

[tomtom72]

Andrew, that new head liner looks great! Nice work man!
Thanks for the tips on the install too!

Tom

[VetteMed]

Thanks for the comments, guys!

I decided to revise the installation of the concealed V1 unit today. I think it looked a little cobbled together before.

Here's what I came up with today:



A little more hidden, fit and finish is a little better. Of course, now the DIC cover plate with the ZR-1 logo is basically junk, but, it was a learning experience

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by VetteMed

Thanks for the comments, guys!

I decided to revise the installation of the concealed V1 unit today. I think it looked a little cobbled together before.

Here's what I came up with today:



A little more hidden, fit and finish is a little better. Of course, now the DIC cover plate with the ZR-1 logo is basically junk, but, it was a learning experience

Looks great so whats removed from the rear of the DIC to make this happen?

If nothing me next lol

I have a spare DIC and a conceal unit to modify

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Looks great so whats removed from the rear of the DIC to make this happen?

If nothing me next lol

I have a spare DIC and a conceal unit to modify

Well, that area is where the LTPWS lights reside. The upper left is empty in '91 but presents an issue with routing of the RJ connector on wire leading to the concealed display. Regardless of which side is chosen, the corner of the stock DIC lens must be cut away, as it's opaque.

I went to Office Depot and bought an Avery "document holder", it's made of translucent textured plastic, smoke colored, and about the same thickness as the stock DIC lens. This was cut to the same size as the original DIC lens.

I also had Office Depot print up a transparency sheet (like used for presentations with an overhead projector), but all that was printed was a dark gray solid background color. This in effect created a thin dark-tinted plastic sheet. This lies over the stock DIC cover, then the thicker textured plastic goes on top of that. This arrangement allows the driver to see the stock warning lights, and the V1 display, but prevents discerning that there's anything behind the lens that doesn't belong there

I used a hot knife attachment for my soldering gun, to melt away the white plastic of the DIC light compartments. It looks like an eggcrate, you need to remove the 'ribs' between the compartments to allow the concealed display to fit.

This arrangement requires that you remove the circuit board from the V1 display housing. I hacked up the front-most black plastic part of the V1 display, and epoxied the individual sections (directional arrows, other LED surrounds), to the circuit board.

I cut the hole for the button, using a razor blade and a lot of patience.

There's a lot of trial and error fitment needed. I fudged the final result with some black butyl windshield sealer rope, to help prevent light leakage from the cut sections of the DIC into the area around the V1 display. I didn't take pics because frankly, it looked terrible until the cover was back in place

-Andrew

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by VetteMed

Well, that area is where the LTPWS lights reside. The upper left is empty in '91 but presents an issue with routing of the RJ connector on wire leading to the concealed display. Regardless of which side is chosen, the corner of the stock DIC lens must be cut away, as it's opaque.

I went to Office Depot and bought an Avery "document holder", it's made of translucent textured plastic, smoke colored, and about the same thickness as the stock DIC lens. This was cut to the same size as the original DIC lens.

I also had Office Depot print up a transparency sheet (like used for presentations with an overhead projector), but all that was printed was a dark gray solid background color. This in effect created a thin dark-tinted plastic sheet. This lies over the stock DIC cover, then the thicker textured plastic goes on top of that. This arrangement allows the driver to see the stock warning lights, and the V1 display, but prevents discerning that there's anything behind the lens that doesn't belong there

I used a hot knife attachment for my soldering gun, to melt away the white plastic of the DIC light compartments. It looks like an eggcrate, you need to remove the 'ribs' between the compartments to allow the concealed display to fit.

This arrangement requires that you remove the circuit board from the V1 display housing. I hacked up the front-most black plastic part of the V1 display, and epoxied the individual sections (directional arrows, other LED surrounds), to the circuit board.

I cut the hole for the button, using a razor blade and a lot of patience.

There's a lot of trial and error fitment needed. I fudged the final result with some black butyl windshield sealer rope, to help prevent light leakage from the cut sections of the DIC into the area around the V1 display. I didn't take pics because frankly, it looked terrible until the cover was back in place

-Andrew

Just called ya. So does this block the LWPTS section? Yep?