Black Tag going into '94 Z

[Ccmano]

When it comes to all things ZF I go with Bills recommendations. I use the fluted bronze. Haibeck is not wrong. The latest TSB from GM on the subject I believe recommended the roller type. Either will be just fine. Use what you ordered. I assume you read this?
http://zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/a...0in%202019.pdf
H

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Ccmano

When it comes to all things ZF I go with Bills recommendations. I use the fluted bronze. Haibeck is not wrong. The latest TSB from GM on the subject I believe recommended the roller type. I either will be just fine. Use what you ordered. I assume you read this?
http://zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/a...0in%202019.pdf
H

Pilot Bearing

It has been suggrested to NOT use the needle bearing as it is a needle type bearing designed for 6.2L diesel trucks which have a limit of only 4,000-4,500 rpms. The theory is that those little needles will turn at over 7,000 rpms. It has therefore been suggested the ideal bushing replacement is a bronze type with three grooves (or flutes) spiraled inside and is available under the GM part number 10125896.

This really only applies to drag racing where you drop the clutch at high rpms. At all other times the RELATIVE rpm difference between the transmission spline and the flywheel are low and much less than 4,000 rpm. The needle bearing pilot would be the best choice for most applications excluding drag racing.

When I install the needle pilot bearing I pack the bearing with greese

[A26B]

I made a cut-away bellhousing and acquired a case with input shaft & both large & small guide tubes, to develop the RAM Clutches applied to several different combinations of flywheels.

You can see that there is no way the face of the pilot bushing is going to contact the input shaft shoulder at the splines.

These photos came from that set up.

[Corvette95]

Thanks Jerry, your site is a wealth of information, and you provide it for free...THANKS! I know these types of jobs are simple for most, other than the last LT5 swap (that I did on floor on stands) back when I had my shops with lifts, I had to do my LT1 5 TIMES because I kept getting chatter, that was of course using a spec clutch, I am reusing all current clutch and pressure plates, going to absolutely follow torque loosening sequence, mark the clutch and flywheel and torque then in sequence and hope for not chatter. I see different recommendation on pilot bearing to lube or not to lube?

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Corvette95

I see different recommendation on pilot bearing to lube or not to lube?

Depends on which type of Pilot Bearing you select (Needle Bearing or Oil-Lite Bearing).

What causes a Oil-Lite pilot bushing to fail? Grease applied to the inside diameter surface of an oil-lite (oil saturated) pilot bushing is the number one cause for Oil-Lite pilot bushing failure. Grease applied in a Oil-Lite pilot bushing eventually dries up and clogs the otherwise normally self-oiling pours of the bushing.

This does NOT apply to a needle Bearing Pilot Bushing which like any needle or ball bearing needs lubrication.

[Ccmano]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

What causes a Oil-Lite pilot bushing to fail? Grease applied to the inside diameter surface of an oil-lite (oil saturated) pilot bushing is the number one cause for pilot bushing failure. Grease applied in a Oil-Lite pilot bushing eventually dries up and clogs the otherwise normally self-oiling pours of the bushing.

This does NOT apply to a needle Bearing Pilot Bushing which like any needle or ball bearing needs lubrication.

Absolutely right! Lube the needle (roller) bearing, do not under any circumstances lube the bronze (Oil-lite) bearings, fluted or plain.
H

[wfot]

One thing I found was that the early throw out bearings are WAY more plentiful than the blue tags. black tags numbered in the 4 thousands and the blue tags were barley 1500 made I believable. And I believe someone bought up all of the remaining blue tag GM/Good throw outs and they were like 200+ years ago - my personal rant grrrrr

Also agree about the cheap china bearings break after a few thousand miles (read this) and most people use original bearings with moderate mileage as they are pretty tough to beat.

but the biggest thing for me was that it is near impossible to find a good quality blue tag throw out. If I were you keep the black tag in tact and use a more plentiful and not china throwout bearing.

my 2 for today
John

[Corvette95]

When I installed the blue tag transmission, it was in conjunction with new motor mounts so they were not bolted on the bottom allowing me to raise the motor, I have read in solutions one method is to loosen motor mounts, other says it is not necessary. Well I have the motor mounts shimmed and placed exactly where I want them to give me header clearance to steering shaft and used Bill B c beam plates when I reinstalled the c beam and I checked the clearance, so my question is do I need to unbolt the two bottom bolts of the motor mounts to raise engine ? If I can do it with them left tight I will since it took a bit of time to get perfect adjustment. Thanks

[Corvette95]

Do I need to pull the flywheel to replace pilot bearing since I am not replacing clutch?

[Jagdpanzer]

No


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