Alternator upgrade

[-=Jeff=-]

Since I revived this thread.. I ended up finishing my rebuild of an Alternator I started 5 years ago.. car was dead, I needed an alt and bought a reman @ the local parts stoe

I bought several parts to upgrade my old one, but every time I tested it, it did not work. Last weekend I went through all the Rectifiers and checked them, I used a stock Rectifier and stock regulator, new brushes, new rotor I bought 5 years ago, along with a 140-150A Stator. Basically all new except Rectifier, Regulator and case. Assembled it and it worked

I just purchased a 200a Capable Rectifier and the correct brush holder. I spoke with a a guy at Quick Start (alternatorparts.com) he said the 124A stock units were more like 105-110A and the CS144 is 60% max at idle. So with the parts I have and the new Rectifier, I should have an improved idle current. Once I get it together I will install it and add a 8ga power wire from the alt to the Junction block and see how it does

[Locobob]

I'm seriously thinking about this, getting pretty sick of my alternator randomly dropping voltage at stop lights and my stereo shutting off. I've already tried rebuilding it but obviously didn't catch all the problems. I like the idea of a 200amp unit, I have some more electronics mods planned and that would give me some extra breathing room.

[Locobob]

Welp I'm going to get me one of these. Can anyone tell be the thickness of the spacer needed? Also why go down to a 2.3in pulley from the stock 2.6? Are you just trying to get a little more oomph at idle over and above the already increased output of the 200amp alternator to run the spal fans?

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by Locobob

Welp I'm going to get me one of these. Can anyone tell be the thickness of the spacer needed? Also why go down to a 2.3in pulley from the stock 2.6? Are you just trying to get a little more oomph at idle over and above the already increased output of the 200amp alternator to run the spal fans?

I can measure the spacer thickness and post it.
Quality power recommended smaller diameter pulley. According to QP, their alternator can handle higher RPM. I went with the largest diameter pulley offered by QP. Of course, higher RPM means more amp at idle.

[secondchance]

Spacer is 1/4” thick.

[Locobob]

Originally Posted by secondchance

Spacer is 1/4” thick.

Thanks, got one on the way. Hopefully I can squeeze it in by pulling just the throttle body, I've already hit my quota for plenum pulls this year lol

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by Locobob

Thanks, got one on the way. Hopefully I can squeeze it in by pulling just the throttle body, I've already hit my quota for plenum pulls this year lol

With 21.3" pulley, you will need 80" belt.

[Locobob]

Originally Posted by secondchance

With 21.3" pulley, you will need 80" belt.

I don't think I can fit a 21.3" pulley under my hood lol
When I talked to Kevin he said the belt difference would be just over a quarter inch, I may be able to use what I have as I erred on the tight side with the belt.

[1LEZ]

Originally Posted by secondchance

I think below is the one I ordered.
https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/ite...-7.2-Mount.htm

Invoice says 8112-ND-200A, rear post 6S 2.3" pulley and W3030D harness.
Again, passenger side post needs a spacer and thread needs to be bored out for our LT5. Cost was $485 including the harness.

Talk to Kevin. He was very helpful.

Can you tell if this works for a 1990 car? Thanks for the write up!

[secondchance]

Originally Posted by 1LEZ

Can you tell if this works for a 1990 car? Thanks for the write up!

As far as I know, yes. No difference in alternator physical dimensions or any mounting points.
Throw in 2 Spal fans and fear of overheating becomes a distant memory.