04-29-2014 | #21 |
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 85
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Re: Questions/Help on buying a ZR1
[QUOTE=cvette98pacecar;201977]Clint, I can answer that question. The big fat azz and LT5 engine.
Peferctly said!!!!
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Dr. Pete "Frankenstein's" Ported and Polish combo Cam retiming & Chip Tune Corsa Exhaust No Cat SW Stainless Long Tube Headers MSD Coils DRM Coil Overs Hurst Shifter ZF Doc Beam Plates Center Force Dual Friction |
04-29-2014 | #22 |
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 24
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Re: Questions/Help on buying a ZR1
Car has a B&B exhaust, color is black it was repainted due to pin striping or moldings that looked like crap (owner said). I did not want to drop over 20K on a car which eliminated all the 20 and 30k mile ones, and I found this one for 18k and talked him down a little. I like the car, and the restoration he put into it like starter, weatherstrips, gaskets, powdercoated engine etc. Hopefully it will save me $$$$ down the road it i purchase it.
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04-29-2014 | #23 |
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pendleton, IN
Posts: 3,904
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Re: Questions/Help on buying a ZR1
J-Bonez, I truly hope you find the right car soon so you can enjoy the LT5 Premagrin experience.
Welcome to the Brotherhood!
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1988 KOH Prototype EX5023 sold 1990 ZR-1 #444 Convertible 1990 ZR-1 Black #966 1991 ZR-1 Quazar Blue #296 1957 Duntov SS Project |
04-29-2014 | #24 |
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: AZ
Posts: 860
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Re: Questions/Help on buying a ZR1
Oh yeah, Brett's telling you the absolute truth about the PermaGrin, J-Bonez...first time that thing crosses the 4000RPM threshold with the hammer down, your eyes are gonna get REALLY WIDE!!
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04-30-2014 | #25 |
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tinton Falls, NJ
Posts: 1,177
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Re: Questions/Help on buying a ZR1
Hey Bonez, where in NJ are you?
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04-30-2014 | #26 | |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,493
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Re: Questions/Help on buying a ZR1
Quote:
Yep. IF the secondaries are not opening, it will die @ or near 5000 rpm, but so it will if the intake accordion "snorkel" collapses, BTW. But, NEITHER of these are difficult to remedy, in and of themselves - but if there is an Service Engine Soon light (SES), the secondaries will not come on and rpm may be curtailed until the cause of the SES light is corrected. So, when you turn the key to "ON", look for the SES light to come on (bulb test) for a couple seconds. If it does not come on, either the bulb is bad, OR removed...pretty rare (but it has happened). This chart from Marc Haibeck's site will provide some more info, including clues about possible differential gear change, and/or tach calibration. (Note: After 20 or so years, the tach calibration often drifts by some percentage - to error some % higher than it should. It is not a big deal to fix it; a Do It Yourself (DIY) kind of project actually. But, I mention it because the mph vs. tach value chart values might not agree, and tach cal can make one think the differential gear is not stock. ) I agree, the best bet is to recruit one of the members here to check it out - maybe before you spend the $$ for transportation to see it yourself, no? Just a thought.
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Good carz, good food, good friendz = the best of timez! 90 #1202 "FBI" top end ported & relieved Cam timing by "Pete the Greek" Sans secondaries Chip & dyno tuning by Haibeck Automotive SW headers, X-pipe, MF muffs Former Secretary, ZR-1 Net Registry |
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04-30-2014 | #27 |
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: I live at Devens, one run at a time
Posts: 455
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Re: Questions/Help on buying a ZR1
Here's a couple pointers from my wife's adventure flying out and driving back an un-seen car.
When you turn on the key (not starting) make sure you see all the warning lights (look for missing bulbs - a clue somebody fixed something the easy way) On test drive make sure you put some miles and start cycles on it, so a code comes back if happened to be freshly reset. Know your emissions inspection needs, chipped LT5 may be trouble on roller/sniffer test. Fill the tank and use the trip odo - the senders in these degrade with alcohol in fuel. Speaking of alcohol in fuel it may have been mentioned above or in links but look for fresh fuel injectors in the recent work or paper trail as these degrade with alcohol too, of course it may not be a problem in the fuel mix where the car is. Other than that it's really just normal used car stuff, but for sure a local ZR-1'er would be great to have looking/listening and rendering opinion on what's "normal". on edit - the more I think about it you probably already know to look for jacking damage as that's pretty popular on C4s. Other C4 things to consider are condition of suspension bushings as they're all aging, and the usual door/window/latch stuff. Good luck! - Jeff
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[I]91 ZR-1 #1840, autocrossing in SCCA BSP. FIC S/S's DRM chip/Watson/Borla/lid/LW batt&headlights, springs, shocks, pads & lines, quick rack & Turn One, camber brace, 32/22mm sways, A/C halfway deleted 17x11 & 12 CCW's, 315 & 335 Hoosier A6s [/I] Last edited by batchman; 04-30-2014 at 02:02 PM. |
04-30-2014 | #28 |
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Ledyard,CT
Posts: 8,251
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Re: Questions/Help on buying a ZR1
I got $3.30 would that help?
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04-30-2014 | #29 |
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mystic CT
Posts: 2,633
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Re: Questions/Help on buying a ZR1
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04-30-2014 | #30 |
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Kalamazoo MI
Posts: 1,753
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Re: Questions/Help on buying a ZR1
The car is in Detroit? I'm somewhat close in Kalamazoo
I also hear I worked on this car but it's not ringing any bells with me. I have had my hands on Amit of 1990 ZR-1s and a few 91s but don't recall a 92
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JOHNNY P Currently own 90 ZR-1 #845 DRM 500 engine package 90 #226 Parts car Hit me up if you need anything. Last edited by phrogs; 04-30-2014 at 11:09 PM. |
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