Spark plug questions

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by hiperf406

Well got all my plugs changed & took car for a drive. Before I changed the plugs the car had a significant miss in it - which I attributed to my injectors as am still still running original injectors. On my test run car ran great no miss at all & it seemed to pull stronger. The plugs looked good with a light brown color to them. It took longer to change # 8 than to do all the rest !

lorne #1748

For what its worth, I've NO problem with either #7 or #8.

I bought a Craftsman plug socket with the swivel on it, and using a short extension it all follows easily down the hole, leaving the end of the extension just above flush with the cam cover (when seated fully over the plug) where an additional swivel may be installed. Or, depending on the length of the extension, swivel-head ratchet easily accesses it, no problem!

Maybe its all relative. After changing plugs on my LT1 Vette, changing the #8 on the LT5 is nothing in comparison!

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

For what its worth, I've NO problem with either #7 or #8.

I bought a Craftsman plug socket with the swivel on it, and using a short extension it all follows easily down the hole, leaving the end of the extension just above flush with the cam cover (when seated fully over the plug) where an additional swivel may be installed. Or, depending on the length of the extension, swivel-head ratchet easily accesses it, no problem!

I'll take a pic of it and post it later.

Blackhawk 5/8" Spark Plug Swivel Socket 3/8" Drive

[csavaglio]

I just did mine and I was surprised about the #8 after all the negative stuff I've heard. I had no problem. It did take longer than the others, but, being the first time, it took a little experimenting to get the right combo of extensions and u-joint.

After dealing with LT4's, LT1's, L98's, and an L98 with long tubes where I had to run shorty plugs and make a plug tool just to get to them (a short plug socket with a notch cut in one side to slide sideways onto the plugs since the headers didn't allow a direct approach), the #8 on the LT5 was barely noteworthy. The only motor I've had that was easier was a stovebolt 6.

Personally, I've never run fancy plugs, although I run platinums in my LT4 since they're a bit more of a chore to change. I am running platinum rapid fires, but on this motor, I still don't mind changing the plugs once a season (don't mind the minor expense and it's not hard).



Chris

[scottfab]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

F
....snip....
Maybe its all relative. After changing plugs on my LT1 Vette, changing the #8 on the LT5 is nothing in comparison!

I think that is it in a nut shell. I've never had an engine that was so easy
to change plugs as the LT5 is. The only plug offering any complication is #8 and it is equal in difficulty to the easiest plug on my Explorer.
It truly is just relative.

[Racinfan83]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Blackhawk 5/8" Spark Plug Swivel Socket 3/8" Drive

I got one of those and it made the job a hella lot easier. The only issue I had was the plugs wouldn't stay in the socket - but a strip of electric tape inside the socket fixed that issue...

[XfireZ51]

Originally Posted by Racinfan83

I got one of those and it made the job a hella lot easier. The only issue I had was the plugs wouldn't stay in the socket - but a strip of electric tape inside the socket fixed that issue...

You can use a piece of hose to screw plug into hole, then use socket to give it the final torque. I use telescoping magnet handle to pull plug out of well.

[Schrade]

I was sinking some new plugs in an LT1 once, and one of 'em didn't feel 'right' (had anti-seize, and didn't quite feel cross threaded). I backed it out and tried again, still funny-feeling. I got near the bottom, and it really was gettin' tough.

Then it seemed like it broke loose. I got a sick feeling in my gut. Screwed in in a little more, and it locked down. I left it, and it was probably under torque spec.

I'd rather blow a plug, than buy another head.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Racinfan83

I got one of those and it made the job a hella lot easier. The only issue I had was the plugs wouldn't stay in the socket - but a strip of electric tape inside the socket fixed that issue...

Those swivel Spark Plug Sockets have a nice rubber insert. My only issue was that the spark plug held on to the insert separating the short wobble extension from the end of the swivel socket when done inserting the spark plug. A little white grease on the rubber insert cured that issue

[Hog]

Just for clarity, a spark plug should NEVER be broken loose with the engine hot. The risk of removing teh aluminum threads along with the plug.

There were some mid 90's 4 cylinder engines that had shop instructions that recommended that the car sit for 24 hours before attemptuing to remove the sparkplugs.

I once had a buddy that came to my shop and wanted to change the plugs. It was a GM product that had the Quad 4 engine. I told him to "at least wait a few hours to let it cool down."
Hje said " No its OK, lets do it now, it'll be OK".

So he went and got the sparkplug sockets and 3/8 ratchet and an extension. He is struggling, and I laugh and continue working away on my truck down in the pit.

After a few minutes I hear "Oh SH*T, damn ^*(^&&( curse, curse, curse".

I get out from under my truck and I see that he had a 1/2" drive 3 foot long Johnson bar, with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter on it. He holds up the plug, and it had a bunch of aluminum on it.

I didnt even say I told you so. At least he stopped, and didnt try the next plug. The car sounded like a tractor as he pulled out of the driveway.

I'm not sure what the LT5 recommendations are, my point is to just execise caution and leave the Johnson bars in the toolbox.lol

[Hog]

Specced a 1991 LT5

ACDELCO FR2LS Copper Core
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 05614062, 05614285, 5614062, 5614285, FR1LS $1.58


ACDELCO RAPIDFIRE PLUG "#5"
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s):
19145287, 19238456,19250964,19308030 0.045" $3.59 or ($3.25 from GM Parts Direct)


ACDELCO 41800 Platinum
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s):19238465, 19250972, 19305821, 88901006
0.35"gap $5.02 ($5.33 from GM Parts Direct)


Specced for 1995 LT5

ACDELCO PLATINUM PLUG Part # 41913
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s):05614355, 19158035, 19208528, 5614355
0.35" gap $1.74


ACDELCO RAPIDFIRE PLUG 0.035" ACDELCO "8"
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s):19145290, 19238459, 19250967, 25171347
0.35" gap $2.05


ACDELCO #41963 PLATINUM PLUG
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 05614355, 19158035, 19158040, 19208528, 19208532, 19244470, 25178637, 41913, 5614355
$5.02



ACDelco Spark Plug Rebate
Offer expires 12/31/2014

Get up to $2 per plug back by mail in rebate.
• Professional Iridium ($2 per plug)
• Professional Platinum ($1.50 per plug)
• Rapidfire ($1.00 per plug)
• Professional Conventional ($.50 per plug)


AC/Delco Mail in Rebate for lugs
http://www.acdelco.com/pdf/2014-Spar...Rebate-Pad.pdf


Heck for the price of the Copper Cores, you can swap out a full set of 8 every year for $12.50. We have spark plugs up here that go for 20+ dollars a piece.

The Copper Core plugs conduct electricity better than the rare Earth elements(REE). This would NOT be noticeable via a "Seat-Of-The Pants"(SOTP) dyno test.
The REE's have the advantage when it comes durability. Hence why they became OEM almost across the board as GM increased it warranty from 3years 36,000 miles, up to 5 years/100,000 miles.

Knowing you have to change a Copper Core plug more often can be viewed as desireable as it forces you to pull them and inspect them. While you are at it, you might as well do a compression test while you are at it.