Weird... car dies and won't even crank. Then starts like nothing happened.

[TFENT]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Ha.....a starter issue in a ZR1 is not good as you know the work involved in replacing a starter. Having said that.....low voltage might effect a starter solenoid more when it is hot than when it cools off a bit as you were running the engine for some time before this happened

Well the intake has to come off to do the Alternator too, so kill 2 birds with one stone heh?

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by TFENT

Well the intake has to come off to do the Alternator too, so kill 2 birds with one stone heh?

Actually I think the Alt can be done without pulling the plenum

I need to replace my Alt as well.. but I plan on trying to r&r without pulling the plenum

[Dynomite]

If it started back up like nothing happened meaning it turned over like a full battery with full voltage.......that would suggest battery and alternator are in good shape....it would also suggest starter is in good shape as it is usually solenoids that go on starters.......which can be intermittent problems.

And from this it was a zero ground or a dead short somewhere that killed the engine as others have suggested. Then it prolly did not start again untill the location where it was shorted cooled down..... I am not sure how a poor ground would reactivate itself. If it were just battery cables, seems to me it would run on the alternator. If it did not restart...seems to me it could be battery cables......and on and on.....

As I recall......there might be a delay of 10 minutes on starting after several failed attempts as an anti theft measure...but am not sure.

You and all others reading this can tell I am guessing

This guy (WB9MCW) knows what he is talking about
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...theft+starting

meaning Dynomite

[TFENT]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

If it started back up like nothing happened meaning it turned over like a full battery with full voltage.......that would suggest battery and alternator are in good shape....it would also suggest starter is in good shape as it is usually solenoids that go on starters.......which can be intermittent problems.

And from this it was a zero ground or a dead short somewhere that killed the engine as others have suggested. Then it prolly did not start again untill the location where it was shorted cooled down..... I am not sure how a poor ground would reactivate itself. If it were just battery cables, seems to me it would run on the alternator. If it did not restart...seems to me it could be battery cables......and on and on.....

As I recall......there might be a delay of 10 minutes on starting after several failed attempts as an anti theft measure...but am not sure.

You and all others reading this can tell I am guessing

This guy (WB9MCW) knows what he is talking about
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...theft+starting

meaning Dynomite

I am really curious about this 10 min delay security thing.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

Actually I think the Alt can be done without pulling the plenum

100% correct, need to pull the Air cleaner and Air Horn from the TB although. But the Plenium does not need to be pulled

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by TFENT

I am really curious about this 10 min delay security thing.

Not sure if thats it because the Security light flashing would be all the time. VATS can be bypassed although if you know which key code you have.

[tomtom72]

Originally Posted by TFENT

I am really curious about this 10 min delay security thing.

I think with the VATS system, if a start attempt is made and the CCM does not see the proper pre-programed resistance ( our key pellet ) the system shuts off the fuel pumps for a time period ( not sure how long ). I also understand that any further attempts at starting without the proper pellet will just extend the "no fuel" time period. I think this spoils any attempts to "hot wire" the car? I'm not exactly sure about the last statement, but it seems logical to me?

Anyway, once the VATS is engaged, the only way to defeat it is to have the right key+pellet; or wait the 10 mins to try to start the car using what method I have no idea, maybe by-passing the VATS entirely? I guess I'd better keep my day job as I would starve as a car thief!

FWIW The dash being scrambled + the lights flashing sure sounds like an electrical supply issue ( or a ground issue ) to me. My dash did that when my battery was stone discharged ( I cooked it up & all was fine again )...total jibberish on the LCD + security light flashed. I assume that the power block just aft of the battery has good connections? I suppose if the clutch switch over heats would it mimic a bad connection like a short ( lights flashing & LCD scrambled? ), but that would only apply to starting the car. I think once running, the clutch sw is out of the circuit? We have fuseable links, but can they become intermittent under load? The thing that bothers me is the described volt gauge behavior, it sure sounds like the regulator is maybe going down...not failed totally, but going. That maybe a separate issue though. You can measure the output at the alt terminal with a VOM as you use different systems.

Sorry, I'm not much help. I hate electrical issues!

Tom

[ShawnZR-1]

You've got a bad ground. Check the cable from the battery to the frame/block.

[Ccmano]

Originally Posted by ShawnZR-1

You've got a bad ground. Check the cable from the battery to the frame/block.

And that doesn't mean just check if it's loose. Remove the cable and check for corrosion under the contact area on both ends, including the battery.
H

[SharkPilot]

Years ago I had a strange problem with my '69. At idle the engine would stumble a little just as the headlights and dash lights flickered. This only happened at night and at idle speed and was very intermittant. What I eventually found was some corrosion under a TIGHT ground connection at the battery. This was a side terminal battery behind the seat as all Sharks are.
Once I cleaned the contacts and reattached the cable all was well.
What I deduced from the experience was, the alternator handled all of the electrical loads just fine at higher RPM but once the engine got back to idle speed the alternator couldn't keep up with the demand if the negative cable lost its connection. Once that happened the engine would stumble and lights would flicker. The car never had a start up problem. The engine would crank and start just fine every time.
That car had no electronics or fuel injection at the time so it was much simpler. I would speculate that any interruption in the voltage with our electronicly controlled cars would cause a bit more havoc. Your lights flickering and the dash going crazy are good clues. Perhaps the voltage problem affected the VATS like others have suggested and disabled the car for 10 minutes.
Since your problem happened at or near idle, with the alternator turning its slowest, I would go after a battery connection.
Your low voltage at idle with the turn signals on also suggests a battery connection.

I hope all of this helps a bit and I'll be watching this thread to see what you find.
All the best, SharkPilot