Locobob's Interior Mod Thread

[Locobob]

Did a shake down drive yesterday.... let the problems commence.

Engine RPM whine through stereo speakers

Headlight switch is not lighting up when lights are on

Custom shift boot doesn't fit right, leather binds up when trying to shift into 1st, 3rd and 5th.... back to the upholstery shop grrrr

About 30 minutes into my drive all my new gizmos died. Lost exhaust cut out control, radar detector, TPMS and back-up camera. The common link to these is the I CONV PL 15 amp fuse. The pink/black acc.wire from this fuse provides direct power to the exhaust cut outs and back up camera and also triggers the relay which the radar detector runs off of. My TPMS is powered by an "add a fuse" which is directly plugged into the I CONV PL. Not sure if I'm trying to run too much off this circuit or if something shorted out. I strongly suspect the exhaust cut outs as looking at my diagrams it appears that I forgot to add a secondary fuse on this circuit.

So pretty frustrated at this point, guess I should have done more testing before putting the interior panels back on... time to pull everything back apart arrrrgggg!

[tf95ZR1]

Loco, whenever you deviate from stock you are going to run
into obstacles. That's what engineers get paid for. What you
are doing separates you from the boys. Hang in there:
LOOKS GREAT!

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by Locobob

Engine RPM whine through stereo speakers

Check your grounds on your equipment. What do you have and where is it placed. What wires are you using and how are they ran in the car?

Originally Posted by Locobob

About 30 minutes into my drive all my new gizmos died. Lost exhaust cut out control, radar detector, TPMS and back-up camera. The common link to these is the I CONV PL 15 amp fuse. The pink/black acc.wire from this fuse provides direct power to the exhaust cut outs and back up camera and also triggers the relay which the radar detector runs off of. My TPMS is powered by an "add a fuse" which is directly plugged into the I CONV PL. Not sure if I'm trying to run too much off this circuit or if something shorted out. I strongly suspect the exhaust cut outs as looking at my diagrams it appears that I forgot to add a secondary fuse on this circuit.

Yeah that is way too much for a 15a fuse.. How are the Cut-outs wired?

I would buy a small fuse panel and run a heavier wire from the Fusible link block then run things off of there.. if you need then to run @ key on only, then use a relay controlled by the I CONV PL fuse to energize the relay to apply power tot he new fuse panel.

[-=Jeff=-]

fuse blocks:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bs...6-20/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30002/overview/

just a couple

[Locobob]

Originally Posted by tf95ZR1

Loco, whenever you deviate from stock you are going to run
into obstacles. That's what engineers get paid for. What you
are doing separates you from the boys. Hang in there:
LOOKS GREAT!

Yeah I knew there would be issues to sort out.... just not so damn many
My extra gizmos worked great and looked awesome for that 30min....

[Locobob]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

fuse blocks:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bs...6-20/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30002/overview/

just a couple

You know that is a really good idea, perhaps I should move my relay and run a fuse block in the rear storage compartment with power coming from the 30amp power seat circuit which is underutilized now that I pulled out the power seat tracks. I was trying to cram everything under the rear of the shifter bezel and that is proving to be a frustratingly tight fit.

[Locobob]

I suppose I could also run a new lead right off the battery kill switch as its right behind the rear storage bins, then I would have unlimited power for a fuse block.

[Locobob]

Originally Posted by -=Jeff=-

Check your grounds on your equipment. What do you have and where is it placed. What wires are you using and how are they ran in the car?

I'm still using the bose speakers/amps with a PAC OEM-1 adapter so the ground is as stock - just runs in and out of the adapter. Kinda sounds like only the rear speakers are whining - need to check that a little closer and confirm if that is the case.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Locobob

Side of panel just kinda floats in the air but doesn't appear that will create any problems, wasted some time fixing this tab.

Just fixed my broken tab (the one on the hush panel with two holes that holds up the hush panel). Your tab is too short in and out (some of the horizontal part must have broken off). I sanded a little block of wood at the appropriate angles and using JB Weld.....welded the tab bottom to the block of wood and the block of wood to the hush panel. The little block of wood was about an inch long or a bit longer and a wedge shape since that tab is not perpendicular to the hush panel plastic side. This reinforced the joint where it originally broke.

Very Interesting Thread...thanks

[Locobob]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Just fixed my broken tab (the one on the hush panel with two holes that holds up the hush panel). Your tab is too short in and out (some of the horizontal part must have broken off). I sanded a little block of wood at the appropriate angles and using JB Weld.....welded the tab bottom to the block of wood and the block of wood to the hush panel. The little block of wood was about an inch long or a bit longer and a wedge shape since that tab is not perpendicular to the hush panel plastic side. This reinforced the joint where it originally broke.

Very Interesting Thread...thanks

This is where the tab seemed to want to fit, I'm guessing it's because I'm putting a 94+ panel on a 91, my stock original panel has a tab the jogs inward then up.