ZR-1 Net Registry Forums  

Go Back   ZR-1 Net Registry Forums > C4 ZR-1 > C4 ZR-1 General Postings

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-27-2008   #11
cuisinartvette
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: San Fernando Valley, CA.
Posts: 896
Default Re: Ball milling reamer??

Have a 36, 37 and 38mm chrome ball. Want to say I got them from McMaster, Ill double check. Ordered them with a freind years ago.

On the bit you need a way to control where it cuts, dragging ot through wont work. I use a good ol fashioned grinder and an assortment of carbides.
__________________
1990 ZR1, 142,000 miles-Black on black
4.09's Haibeck chip, 3"exh, K&N, meth inj.
cuisinartvette is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2008   #12
IowaZR-1
 
IowaZR-1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Iowa aka "one big cornfield"
Posts: 341
Default Re: Ball milling reamer??

Quote:
Originally Posted by IowaZR-1 View Post
You might want to look into extrude honing.
http://www.gethoned.com/process.html
I was wrong after seeing several of the threads posted.....die grinding/polishing by an experienced grinder is the only way to go.
IowaZR-1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2008   #13
Polo-1
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Washington
Posts: 955
Default Re: Ball milling reamer??

I think it needs to be ground out by hand, then if you have the money to spend.... ex honing would be icing on the cake.
Polo-1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2008   #14
flyin ryan
 
flyin ryan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Edmonton, Alberta or Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 2,741
Default Re: Ball milling reamer??

Quote:
Originally Posted by IowaZR-1 View Post
die grinding/polishing by an experienced grinder is the only way to go.
you said it, 100%. it's funny, the people i deal with & talk to daily in the higher end porting world is in fact rather small, the upper echelon of porters in North America ALL have the same opinion of the Extrude Hone process...it's a joke. i will say, on the outside, to people who are not semi experianced it does seem like it's a GREAT idea...it's like saying a bigger port will flow more air, while it MAY, that doesn't mean it will accelerate hard or quick, more often than not it will be the opposite...slow moving lazy air speed. i tell people all the time...you want the smallest port that moves the most/fastest mixture...not JUST air, MIXTURE!, Fuel & Air. i wish i could lay out some quick & easy mathematical equations or some simple guidlines to help, but there simply aren't any. it's a complex issue, which is why so many people have trouble. i'll lay out what i consider the five most important variables used to tune the induction system:
1. Average velocity;
2. Individual instantaneous velocities;
3. Shape/design (maximize a homogenous velocity profile over the ENTIRE port & at the same time promote efficient flow);
4. Rate of velocity change; & last
5. Airflow;
If a person follows these five variables you'll soon find out the most important rules of designing an induction system are: Velocity, Velocity, Shape, Velocity &, finally, Airflow.
I try to keep my engine building arm out of this forum, for the most part, but i hate seeing people going down the wrong road, so i apologize for partially stealing this thread. it wasn't intended. i could have jumped in many times in the past but i just let it go...can't educate everybody. i still don't know why some people think they can port out of the blue just by picking up a die-grinder? i call them carbide cowboys. you know what they say...a little bit of knowledge is dangerous...so true. one last thing...i PORT, not polish! i make the intake tract as rough as possible, the ONLY time i will lightly polish is on the exhaust port side & the only reason for that is so the carbon will have a harder time sticking to the port walls & building up over time on a street driven engine. absolutly nothing to do with so called flow. i've said enough
__________________
There are no limit's mans ingenuity, just as mans ingenuity will never conquer the forces & behavior of this planet...Smokey Y.
flyin ryan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2008   #15
tpepmeie
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Fishers, IN
Posts: 815
Default Re: Ball milling reamer??

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyin ryan View Post
1. Average velocity;
2. Individual instantaneous velocities;
3. Shape/design (maximize a homogenous velocity profile over the ENTIRE port & at the same time promote efficient flow);
4. Rate of velocity change; & last
5. Airflow;
Haven't I read that exact same quote/order of things from Darin Morgan over on SpeedTalk? I won't say who's doing my induction system, but I can assure you that he is following this very good advice.

According to this expert, The worst spots on the LT5 induction tract are the head-to-housing interface, and the too large bowl areas beneath the valves. The head-to-housing area is troublesome in that to make the air follow the awkward turn, the cross-section area of the port has to be slightly larger than optimal. I will say, overall, these heads will still be smaller & faster than current thinking in LT5 port work. Cant wait to get them back!

Todd
tpepmeie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2008   #16
flyin ryan
 
flyin ryan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Edmonton, Alberta or Phoenix, Arizona
Posts: 2,741
Default Re: Ball milling reamer??

Like i said the porting world is small. funny you should mention Darin though, we talk every few days. all the higher end guys' thinking runs along the same lines. Tom Slawko, Ron's, Carl Foltz, Curtis Boggs etc. sounds like you've got a good guy doing your stuff, which is good to see. seems like there is a bubble around the LT-5 world. that's why i try to stay out of these type discussions on here, i don't want to step on any toes, so to speak. i always tell guys, an engine doesn't know what name is on the valve cover or in this case a cam cover. treat each port to itself & follow proper principles & techniques, things will work out for themselves. don't do something just because so & so did it & you are led to believe it is correct. i never 'assume' anything.
__________________
There are no limit's mans ingenuity, just as mans ingenuity will never conquer the forces & behavior of this planet...Smokey Y.
flyin ryan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2008   #17
tpepmeie
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Fishers, IN
Posts: 815
Default Re: Ball milling reamer??

I found the reference. Here is a very good article by Darin on the subject.
http://www.competitionplus.com/2006_...der_heads.html

One of those guys you mentioned is taking my LT5 heads to the next level! A long R&D project, which hopefully is nearing completion.
tpepmeie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2008   #18
Jagdpanzer
 
Jagdpanzer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 2,661
Default Re: Ball milling reamer??

Quote:
Originally Posted by tpepmeie View Post
I found the reference. Here is a very good article by Darin on the subject.
http://www.competitionplus.com/2006_...der_heads.html

One of those guys you mentioned is taking my LT5 heads to the next level! A long R&D project, which hopefully is nearing completion.
tpepmeie:
How long before you will have your new engine running?
Jagdpanzer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2008   #19
XfireZ51
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Chicagoland, IL
Posts: 9,708
Default Re: Ball milling reamer??

FR,

Given that our manifolds are dry, how does that change the principles of
porting? Or does it? What's your view on direct injection and any
modification it suggests for porting?
XfireZ51 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2008   #20
LGAFF
 
LGAFF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,194
Default Re: Ball milling reamer??

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyin ryan View Post
i still don't know why some people think they can port out of the blue just by picking up a die-grinder? i call them carbide cowboys. you know what they say...a little bit of knowledge is dangerous...so true. one last thing...i PORT, not polish! i make the intake tract as rough as possible, the ONLY time i will lightly polish is on the exhaust port side & the only reason for that is so the carbon will have a harder time sticking to the port walls & building up over time on a street driven engine. absolutly nothing to do with so called flow. i've said enough

I did my own intake and got 391 rwhp without even tunng the car yet, I'm not a pro but I am $1200-$2400 richer than if I sent it out. I also did an intake which I sold to Hans(CCMANO) and will be interested how his car does with the port job.....have another intake that I bought and am working on it now. There is a learning curve with it but as with anything to me there is a diminishing return on everything......how much extra time, cash etc to pick up a few more ponies.... I was also able to recreate the smooth finish of the extrude hone with lots of WD40 and 800, 1000, 1200 grit paper but what is it really worth?????? I did it on my intake but would not do it again.

LGAFF
"carbide cowboy"
LT-5 hack
92 ZR1
#234
LGAFF is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:25 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright ZR-1 Net Registry 2020