Crazy VATS Problem

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Originally Posted by secondchance

If this was happening to me, I would splice in a VATS bypass and see if this eliminates intermittent issue. If yes, i would suspect periodic CCM malfunction.
Did you notice what the security light was doing on the main cluster?

Clean and switch keys to rule that out.
If iit were starter heat soak, it would happen elsewhere.
If your PKE is still active, yet you are not using your remote, then it is conceivable that the antenna is picking up the EM interference, and is unsure how to deal with it.
Park farther away from the lines to see if that changes anything.

I always used to like battery cutoffs. However, now with all of the complex electronics with dozens of modules, I am not fond of killing power and then restoring it. A lever blade type provides full power immediately upon lowering it.
The knob type can cause momentary connection then loss as you tighten it, then connection etc. Those "jolts" can cause trouble especially if they occur often.
Steady power, with a boost from a very low trickle type computerized charger, such as Battery Tender, or C-Tek, is a feature of my battery "religion".
I also always make a permanent connection rather than using alligator clips.
Lastly, I make the connection to the car before powering up the charger.
Can't say if any of that truly helps absent some scientific study, but it does avoid surges to the electrical system.

Also trying to think what could be different in the gym routine form elsewhere, as you are suggesting that is the only place that it happens.
Certainly the EM field is of some concern, different key than usual?
does it get handled/ stored differently?
Same shoes as always? Are you sure that you are getting the clutch pedal fully depressed?
Is your door opening sequence different at the gym?
Just trying to rule out simple things first.
Keep us posted.
But monitor the security light when you turn the car off, then when you open the door, then after you lock it, and how do you lock it key or door lock switch? Watch the light as you do each and let us know.
Do you toss the gym bag in or pop the hatch?

Marty

[conesare2seconds]

It’s the gym.

I’m kidding. My car stranded me every darn time I took it to the gym, too. I took to carrying a jump pack. Anyway, two thoughts. First, if you are using two sets of mats take one set out and see if there is any difference. You might not be able to depress the clutch pedal fully with a second set. Second, your starter might need a new solenoid or you might need a new starter. If the car starts with a jump it points to the starter, assuming your battery is good.

[lfalzarano]

Jump pack doesn’t work. Only a push start will get you going unless you can wait for 20 minutes


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[KJL]

Originally Posted by DRM500RUBYZR-1

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Clean and switch keys to rule that out.
If iit were starter heat soak, it would happen elsewhere.
If your PKE is still active, yet you are not using your remote, then it is conceivable that the antenna is picking up the EM interference, and is unsure how to deal with it.
Park farther away from the lines to see if that changes anything.

I always used to like battery cutoffs. However, now with all of the complex electronics with dozens of modules, I am not fond of killing power and then restoring it. A lever blade type provides full power immediately upon lowering it.
The knob type can cause momentary connection then loss as you tighten it, then connection etc. Those "jolts" can cause trouble especially if they occur often.
Steady power, with a boost from a very low trickle type computerized charger, such as Battery Tender, or C-Tek, is a feature of my battery "religion".
I also always make a permanent connection rather than using alligator clips.
Lastly, I make the connection to the car before powering up the charger.
Can't say if any of that truly helps absent some scientific study, but it does avoid surges to the electrical system.

Also trying to think what could be different in the gym routine form elsewhere, as you are suggesting that is the only place that it happens.
Certainly the EM field is of some concern, different key than usual?
does it get handled/ stored differently?
Same shoes as always? Are you sure that you are getting the clutch pedal fully depressed?
Is your door opening sequence different at the gym?
Just trying to rule out simple things first.
Keep us posted.
But monitor the security light when you turn the car off, then when you open the door, then after you lock it, and how do you lock it key or door lock switch? Watch the light as you do each and let us know.
Do you toss the gym bag in or pop the hatch?

Marty

Thanks for all the tips. I still turn the battery off when the car is going to be stored for more than a couple of of days. Use a light weight AGM type battery that is relocated behind the Pass. seat. Great battery but they don't well sitting for long periods. I had the forethought to leave in the original battery connections in place in case I ever need to quickly swap in another battery as back up like I did when I went to the C4 gathering last year. Alternator died and I purchased a full size battery to drive home on. Made it from Chattanooga TN al the way to Atlanta on just the battery. I disconnected my AGM battery but it was there for back up. Leaving the original cables also makes it a lot easier to jump if you need to.

Another problem I have that may be related but it has done this sense I purchased the car the car is many times when I start the car it hear the starter solenoid engage but the starter does not turn. It always starts on the second try.

Is there a way to deactivate this VATS system?

[KJL]

haha.....another reason to just not go!! She always starts at the local Tavern!

[secondchance]

Next time the car is not starting take a look at the volt gauge on the instrument panel as to turn the key to start position.
If the needle drops, I would suspect starter failure.
Do you know how old the starter is?

[DRM500RUBYZR-1]

Well, that is an excellent solution to the problem.
Skip the gym, and have a burger and a beer at the tavern instead.
OK,OK, put lettuce on the burger for health reasons......................

Or go with fruits and vegetables instead by ordering either a Bloody Mary or a Screwdriver.

If it is EM field interference, that would be confusing to the PKE system, which even if the VATS were circumvented, might signal the CCM to interrupt the starter circuit. Your PKE continues to work even though you are not activating it with the FOB.
You should read your manual to see if your locking method is activating it, which would then explain it's "confusion" with the EM field it might be "seeing".
There are I believe two antennas that search for signals for the PKE.

The manual will also review how the security light will appear through each method of locking and unlocking. The CCM expects things in a certain sequence. If it receives information out of sequence it can interpret it as a theft.

The VATS "workaround" only sends the CCM s signal that the key was of the proper ohms for the car / CCM. Other theft symptoms such as door opening, would not be affected by the VATS eliminator.

Are you sure that when this happens at the gym that it is different from when the starter engages but does not spin on first try?

Again, keep us posted on progress.

Marty

[Dynomite]

I have battery disconnect on all corvettes and never any issues even if disconnected on daily bases (95' also)

I also recondition starter solenoid points on all starters
which is often an issue on most ZR1s if not reconditioned


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[KJL]

Originally Posted by DRM500RUBYZR-1

Well, that is an excellent solution to the problem.
Skip the gym, and have a burger and a beer at the tavern instead.
OK,OK, put lettuce on the burger for health reasons......................

Or go with fruits and vegetables instead by ordering either a Bloody Mary or a Screwdriver.

If it is EM field interference, that would be confusing to the PKE system, which even if the VATS were circumvented, might signal the CCM to interrupt the starter circuit. Your PKE continues to work even though you are not activating it with the FOB.
You should read your manual to see if your locking method is activating it, which would then explain it's "confusion" with the EM field it might be "seeing".
There are I believe two antennas that search for signals for the PKE.

The manual will also review how the security light will appear through each method of locking and unlocking. The CCM expects things in a certain sequence. If it receives information out of sequence it can interpret it as a theft.

The VATS "workaround" only sends the CCM s signal that the key was of the proper ohms for the car / CCM. Other theft symptoms such as door opening, would not be affected by the VATS eliminator.

Are you sure that when this happens at the gym that it is different from when the starter engages but does not spin on first try?

Again, keep us posted on progress.

Marty

Yes. When this happens nothing happens at all. Just the dash lights come on. I am at the gym now but this time am parking further away. Just got here. Stopped the car and restarted without issue. Will do everything like I did the other day and see what happens.

[lfalzarano]

Just for the record, what was the ambient temperature when you did the restart? What was it, when it did not start if you can recall?


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