Cheap "thrill" ho-boy.

[XfireZ51]

Brett,

When I have read the spec on these, they mention needing to pout a 6" slab to support them. They don't work for a standard garage cement floor? For most work, they look ideal.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Paul Workman

I've NO ceiling height to allow a post lift, but I'm seriously in the market for a "Kwiklift", soon as funds allow! Be safe out there, my friends! (Now, excuse me while I find some clean underwear!!)

Paul.....I have a KwikLift and I use it with front raised as I can just park on KwikLift and roll under front checking engine with very nice KwikLift Creeper. Got to have the Creeper also.
Oh.....and get a couple of the yellow chocks which are always used when ZR-1 is parked on the ramps raised or not



With both ends raised very easy to roll under the ZR-1 at any location (yellow chock shown behind rear wheel)



See Lifting and Towing the ZR-1

See ZR-1 Transmission Install and Lift Tricks

[JimZRyd]

Glad you're ok! I was just out in my garage this morning planning how I'm going to lift mine up in order to install my coilovers and a few other goodies. I have a set of race ramps and I'm very confident with them. I usually drive up on them and then jack it off the ramps, replacing the ramps with jack stands, usually 4 up front. Then comes the fun part, getting the rear up and doing the same with the stands. Gotta be safe out there fellas!

[Jim Nolan]

I had a Eagle scissor lift and the only problem with them is anything up the center, trans/clutch, is impossible. They are good for anything on the outside ie. brakes and such. Not knowing what the thickness of my floor I got hold of large 1/2 inch aluminum plates to put onder the steel wheels and the front feet and never had an issue.

Jim

[Blue Flame Restorations]

Originally Posted by XfireZ51

Brett,

When I have read the spec on these, they mention needing to pout a 6" slab to support them. They don't work for a standard garage cement floor? For most work, they look ideal.

Probably best for a thicker floor but I know of a local shop that's used theirs on a 4" slab for years. I agree with putting steel plate underneath the rollers, no matter what the concrete thickness may be.

[Bearly Flying]

maybe those flat 2x4 "shims" that slide under the wheels might be a good interim solution...along with the redundant floor jacks for us paranoid DIY'ers.

I would be very cautious there... Sliding shims under the wheels will provide extra room, but your suspension might still be unloaded. If something shifts or fails the car could still bounce down enough to create problems.

Even on my lift, I am nervous. I have secondary safety pins that install through the columns below the sliders. Just in case.....

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Hey P,

Glad to hear that you are okay despite that scare. I was just under mine a few weeks ago to check the suspension and rear diff too in preparation for my HOD session at Laguna Seca next month.

I understand your feeling and kind of feel the same way. I was terrified when I was in Japan for 3 years thinking about being under a jacked up car and tremors from earthquakes. Now I move to another earthquake area here in CA. I'm so paranoid and always shaking the car before going under, but still worried. I have decent jack stands, but really need to buy better quality (not made in China). I have my heavy duty 5 tons from Napa that I bought years and years ago (can't find that quality any more), but they require jacked up very high at the lowest setting. They have such a wide base that get in the way sometimes, but I trust them most as long as sitting properly on the stands.

Now that I am in the upper 48 I need to get at least a Kwiklift (so glad they came back). There was an awesome deal a few months ago from a local seller that I missed out on for $500 and looked like new with all the extras. Really considering construction inside the garage to open up the beams to allow a lift. Kind of like the idea better of the Kwiklift, but would like to bring the other ZR-1 into the garage for storage and stack so I don't have to get rid of the 90.

Thanks for refreshing my mind about safety. Take care and see you next month at BG.

[A26B]

I had a KwikLift before I bought the 4 post, and I only bought it because I needed to put another car in the garage. The KwikLift is an absolutely secure way to have access to the underside at a perfect creeper height. You can remove the front supports to lay the rest down flat & park on top when not in use. Great piece of equipment.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Billy Mild

How does everyone lift their car? I usually do driver side, then lift the passenger side. I have seen on some cars where they lift the front then the back of the car. Is there a right or wrong way to do it?

I wish I could get a MaxJack System, but that just isn't in the budget.

I'm with you about lifting the sides and the only way I would attempt. I have never read about lifting front and back so curious to know. It seems like the body does not have the strength to do so that way. I remember buying a device to put on the jack to lift the rear by the diff, but never did use it oddly enough. I like the idea of that MaxJack system too, would just like to stack cars if possible since I don't have enough real estate to build another garage.

[C4Ray]

I think Race Ramps are safer than jack stands.