Where does your clutch engage on the pedal? High or low? ---

[Z06scentair]

Originally Posted by alwayscode390

That's if you try to force it into gear though, right? ---

You don't want the clutch to come apart period. It could cause all kinds of concern for your underpants!

That being said, mine lets out around middle of travel.

[alwayscode390]

Usually it would be pretty obvious that there are issues though, its not something that just happens overnight ... right?

First thing to notice would be grinding gears easier? ---

[TheBlackPearl]

Mine engages at about 1/2 to 5/8 of pedal travel from the floor. I believe it used to be higher until I changed the clutch fluid.

[csavaglio]

I slipping clutch isn't engaging. You won't notice grinding. If your hydraulics are going, they won't fully disengage the clutch, so that's when you get grinding. You can test for slippage by driving about ten MPH, put it in 5th and floor it. If it builds rpm slowly, its ok. If it slips, it'll build rpm faster as though you're revving it with the clutch pedal half engaged.

The best thing to do is talk to Jim at Power Torque Systems it the ZF Doctor.

[alwayscode390]

OK, well the last few times I drove the car I noticed it was hard to get it into reverse ... almost taking two hands.

It seems to be intermittant, but I have been missing 3rd ... almost like its locking me out or notchy to go into gear , taking more force than it used to.

This is the kicker ... now my pedal seems to be engaging almost to the floor, like the complete opposite as before. I hear a slight click sound also when the pedal is let out about 1/2".

There is no clutch smell, the fluid under the hood looks good, and there is no slipping under load in a high gear.

I am thinking I have a clutch linkage adjustment necessary? Maybe a lock nut is loose?

Thanks for your suggestions! ---

[nelson007]

My 93 and 95 are both midway. My 2012 ZR1 is about the same as your Viper.

Nelson007

Originally Posted by alwayscode390

I have noticed my clutch lets out really high up , almost where the pedal is fully disengaged (maybe an inch from the top).

Is this typical for our systems?

The clutch on my Viper engages really low , about an inch off the floor (opposite of the ZR-1).

I wasn't sure if this may be a clue that I am about ready for a new clutch? I don't notice it slipping at all , so it may be normal ... but I was just curious enough to ask you guys.

The car has 44k miles on it , and got the LPE topend package installed at 23k miles ... so not sure if its the original still or not.

I tend to get the loud transmission sound after everything is warmed up too. I think my flywheel weights are flopping around if its even the dual mass anymore.

If it is time for a clutch and flywheel replacement, whats everyones favorite aftermarket combination to look into?

Thanks! ---

[mike100]

Originally Posted by alwayscode390

OK, well the last few times I drove the car I noticed it was hard to get it into reverse ... almost taking two hands.

I am thinking I have a clutch linkage adjustment necessary? Maybe a lock nut is loose?
---

Is your clutch hydraulic fluid topped off and bled?, outside of the throw-out bearing fork, there isn't any mechanical geometry to it outside of the clutch disc thickness. I would bleed it. a bad clutch would still release and it should never be hard to select a gear.

[alwayscode390]

Not sure if its bled or not , but its topped off and clean looking.

It may have air in it ... the guy who owned it before me posted on here that his kid drove the car one night and came home with NO fluid in the reservoir. Not sure how he fixed it or what he ended up doing in that situation though.

The thing that kills me is the car has driven fine for the past 2 years I have owned it ... its just this past month the clutch is acting funny.

Thanks for pointing out a possible issue ---

[alwayscode390]

I read up on Bill's ZFDOC site , and I am starting to think I am having clutch hydraulic master issues.

He says " The preemptive dog teeth are most susceptible to damage when the clutch hydraulic system becomes degraded. The sensation of NOTCH SHIFTING is more prevalent when the sliding collar's preemptive dogteeth become worn or badly deformed. Advanced stages of preemptive dog tooth wear may result in GEAR ENGAGEMENT DIFFICULTY due to metal burrs restricting normal movement of the sliding collar. A healthy clutch hydraulic system should provide silk-smooth gear engagement. "

I just hope I caught it in time before any kind of damage has happened.

How many hours is a clutch replacement? How about the time for the clutch master cylinder replacement?

As far as trying to bleed the system first, I have never done that before ... what is the process? THANKS!!! ---

EDIT : I just emailed Jim at PowerTorque too ---

[alwayscode390]

"Try to put it into reverse when it first gets started.
If you have difficulty getting into reverse there’s a very good chance that the clutch master cylinder is not at 100%."

This was a good page too : " http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2007...1996-corvette/ "

It says to replace the slave and master at the same time. Looks like that is where I will be starting ! ---