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#11 | |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,156
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The Center caps are OEM GM HHR/Cobalt 2.25" Center caps http://www.ebay.com/itm/MONTE-CARLO-...117113&vxp=mtr I removed the tang on the back side of the OEM caps as the clip diameter is too small.. I then removed the mounting ring from the Shelby cap (just taped). I then used 3M Acrylic body molding tape and put the Shelby mounting ring on the OEM cap and got what you see there in the pic. Shelby Cap ![]() Compared ![]()
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1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Shelby Series 1 - Wilwood Brakes Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#12 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 450
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I had a set of Fikse FM10s on another car, polished and clearcoated. The most beautiful automotive jewelry I've ever had, looked absolutely amazing. And the biggest pain to clean, ever. I'll never do that again, sticking to simple easy to clean wheels. But if I were you I'd paint and clear them, and give them a good coat of wax. That will make them easier to clean despite all those bolts.
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#13 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,884
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I'm all for the paint VS powder-coat for a couple of reasons, todays product can match the durability of the powder-coat and the finish can be "controlled". generally speaking a powder-coat finish is a what you get is what you got. It's very difficult to control the product.
Primed, colored and cleared with the proper product and cure you will I'd think have a much more pleasant experience. Buy yourself some 2 1/4" center cap blanks and color them when you're doing the centers. I have center caps with the ZR-1 in the "correct font type" in my A-mold caps colored in black. It's doable but with a 2 1/4" center cap it would require a rather diminutive size I believe. |
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#14 |
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 3,087
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A PC finish can be wet sanded and polished,one of the NOS 91 wheels I got a few years ago didnt shine like the other 3 so I hit it with some polish and the shine came out.The only benefit of a powder coated wheel is drop it off,call me when its done.If it were me Id get a nice color mixed up and shoot the centers myself but not sure if you are in a position to do any painting.Ive got a set of brushed wheels Im going to have clear coated in PC only because I dont have a place to shoot them myself.
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#15 | |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,156
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this is the finish I am after...
![]() I was curious if the Duplicolor Hyper silver would be close but there is no metallic in it even though it states: Quote:
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1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Shelby Series 1 - Wilwood Brakes Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#16 |
![]() Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Crystal Lake, IL
Posts: 7,180
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Looks like Silver Sparkle PC
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LGAFF 90 #966-150K miles-sold 92 #234-sold 1987 Callaway TT #17 1991 ZR-1 #1359 |
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#17 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,156
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Your guy do that color?
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1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Shelby Series 1 - Wilwood Brakes Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#18 |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,884
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Just as easily could be a more conventional painted finish!
Regardless of the decision the "PRODUCT" is the determining factor for durability, the "APPLICATOR" is the determining factor of the quality of the finish! It's generally accepted that a quality painter (applicator) with the correct environment can produce a finished product of better visual appearance, the product of choice determines durability. Higher metallic finishes seem to all have certainly more "eye appeal" than a PC piece. The preparation, the prime, and the cure results in similar durability to powder coated finishes. Powder coat is not all the same. There's different product of various performance levels just as there is for conventional refinishing. There's urethane, epoxy and other product just as in refinishing products. I believe that most high-silver powder coats require also a clear application. It's not as simple as: Last edited by WVZR-1; 11-01-2013 at 12:22 PM. |
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#19 |
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Bartlett, IL
Posts: 7,156
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yes I understand that..
I am not sure what I will do.. I have contacted a wheel re-finisher.. $110 per wheel, I give them the center sections of the wheels I called a body shop, his rough quote was $650 total (again I supply the center only) what I want is it to MATCH what I have in both Color/metallic as well as smooth shine.. I am leaning towards painting them or having the Wheel re-finisher do them. If I knew I could get a dead on 100% match I would just get the front 2 redone, as those are the ones that need it
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1990 Corvette ZR-1 #1051 Watson Headers (2" Primary) - Flowmaster Cats - Borla Catback Late Model IH - Plenum Coilovers - 4.10s Shelby Series 1 - Wilwood Brakes Custom Interior NCM Lifetime Member #978 |
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#20 | |
![]() Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,884
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An exact/dead-on match isn't near as critical for wheel centers as it is for adjacent panels, the offset of the center, the reflection of the polished rim section all distort the final appearance and then there's the "sunshine" or the "overcast"! If the re-finisher is local carry a wheel to him and have a conversation "toe - toe". The re-finisher I'd generally say would be the better choice. Their equipment is meant for the particular refinishing that they do. In a shop environment you've got a large booth that needs to also be productive, it's difficult to do the prime and cure, the color/clear and cure in a shop that also needs to be productive. Last edited by WVZR-1; 11-01-2013 at 01:00 PM. |
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