AC Vacuum Pump and Oil

[scottfab]

This is great stuff.
To all who have contributed to this list THANKS!
I've been doing almost right for several decades.
The part I wasn't doing is in blue.
I made a few corrections to the text.
Printing this and putting it with the equipment.

Vacuum the A/C System
1. The A/C connector on the passenger side with black cap (just inside of shock) is High Side.
2. The A/C connector on the Accumulator/Drier is theLow Side.
3. Connect gauges to the Vacuum Pump (yellow line center of Manifold).
4. Connect Low Side (Blue Line) to Accumulator/Drier connection.
5. Connect High Side (Red Line) to High Side connection just inside passenger wheel well (lower line on Evaporator Housing).
6. Open both High Side and Low Side Manifold Valves and turn on Vacuum Pump for 60 minutes.
7. Shut Manifold Valves (then shut OFF Vacuum Pump) and make sure Vacuum does not leak down indicating a System Leak.
8. If NO LEAKS, Install New Accumulator/Drier and repeat this process.

Charge the A/C System
1. With both Manifold Valves closed, hook up a can of R12 to the yellow middle hose (see Note #1 below).
2. Turn the can valve fully counterclockwise to open the valve.
3. With the can upright, crack the fitting on the yellow hose where it attaches to the gauge manifold to purge the air out of the hose, then re-tighten it.
4. You can now invert the can and crack the blue Low Side valve and charge until the pressure equalizes between the can and system (no more flow is felt or heard). Never open the Red High Side valve during the Freon Charging process.
5. Now start your car and set the climate control for Max cooling with blower on high. Ensure that the compressor clutch is engaged at this point (see Note #2 below). You can now charge the remainder of the first can with can in an upright position. Always charge with can upright when compressor is running.
6. Once the first can is in, (you'll know it's all in when you can shake the can and not feel any liquid sloshing in it) you can shut the low side valve and swap to the second can.
7. Remember to purge the yellow line again prior to charging.
8. Continue this until you have added the correct amount of Freon, per the FSM. Once the system is fully charged, shut off the compressor and allow High Side and Low Side pressures to equalize before disconnecting the gauge manifold from the system.
9. Once the manifold is disconnected, cap the high and low side fittings, reconnect the pressure cycling switch and you're done.

2 Stage Vacuum Pump
Manifold and Gauges


Adapter Connections R134a to R12
.R12 Can Connector and Gauge


Notes:
1. Prior to connecting the valve to the freon can, unscrew the valve stem fully(you will see the needle in the valve retract up into the body). Then screw the valve onto the can. Now turn the valve fully clockwise to puncture the can.
2. If the compressor clutch is not engaged, you will have to pull the connector on the pressure cycling valve in the low side line and jumper it. The compressor clutch should now engage.

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Thanks guys for all the technical info related to A/C. Reading all of this made me decide to leave my A/C service to a professional. I have a new compressor waiting to be installed as well as the drier/accumulator, orifice tube, etc. and will wait until I get back to the US. There is a good shop in Hawaii that identified I had leak from my compressor with some dye in freon before shipping the car in early 2011 that I have not addressed since and will use them when I return. My understanding is I also need some special oil for the brand new compressor according to the supplier.

Craig

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Reading all of this made me decide to leave my A/C service to a professional.
Craig

Craig.....After all you have done to your ZR1 yourself.....the A/C should be a cake walk

I made the mistake and I would expect others have done the same (maybe) moving the A/C compressor once too many times. I lift it and swing it over on top of drivers side wheel well when removing engine. What I should have done is tie those A/C lines going to the Evaporator down so they do not move breaking the fitting to the A/C Evaporator (right in front of the passenger side).

I have an A/C Vacuum pump from Harbor Freight, A drier from Ecklers, HVAC A/C Refrigeration Kit AC Manifold Gauge Set from Ebay, and some refrigerant. Maybe get some oil also. I will let you know how it goes

I really like working on the ZR1s and am getting very efficient at removing the windshield wiper motor, removing the A/C cover on the Evaporator, removing the Transmission, and lifting the LT5 out of the ZR1 (yep...with Headers attached)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Craig.....After all you have done to your ZR1 yourself.....the A/C should be a cake walk

I made the mistake and I would expect others have done the same (maybe) moving the A/C compressor once too many times. I lift it and swing it over on top of drivers side wheel well when removing engine. What I should have done is tie those A/C lines going to the Evaporator down so they do not move breaking the fitting to the A/C Evaporator (right in front of the passenger side).

I have an A/C Vacuum pump from Harbor Freight, A drier from Ecklers, HVAC A/C Refrigeration Kit AC Manifold Gauge Set from Ebay, and some refrigerant. Maybe get some oil also. I will let you know how it goes

I really like working on the ZR1s and am getting very efficient at removing the windshield wiper motor, removing the A/C cover on the Evaporator, removing the Transmission, and lifting the LT5 out of the ZR1 (yep...with Headers attached)

You might be right and that is what I thought, but I admit I don't know diddly squat about air conditioning systems. I do have an article saved from one of the Corvette magazines that I thought would help. More research and I might be comfortable tackling the job. I just want it right and A/C is important to have in the summer months here and in Hawaii year round. Take care and best wishes with the repair.

[vilant]

I was going to recharge my A/C myself. For $20 you can get yourself certified, to remove and recharge, it's an online course http://www.macsw.org/MACS/Section_60...d-27fd9b9153f6.
Not sure what the rules are in Japan but here in the U.S. this is all you need to do it legally. There's other Youtube videos and online courses to learn more, along with your FSM. Why pay someone you don't know, when you could spend roughly the same amount and learn yourself? You can't trust anyone more than yourself. The most expensive part is the equipment, but you will own it and always have it.

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by vilant

I was going to recharge my A/C myself. For $20 you can get yourself certified, to remove and recharge, it's an online course http://www.macsw.org/MACS/Section_60...d-27fd9b9153f6.
Why pay someone you don't know, when you could spend roughly the same amount and learn yourself? You can't trust anyone more than yourself. The most expensive part is the equipment, but you will own it and always have it.

Thank you Joe (vilant)
That is some good stuff right there

In my case I have several vehicles where the A/C is not working as well as it should and it is relatively expensive to have others do it. I guess that is why we do our own mechanic work on the LT5

Also........ on the LT5 it is rare to find a mechanic familiar enough to know it will be done the right way.

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

You might be right and that is what I thought, but I admit I don't know diddly squat about air conditioning systems.

Me neither....but then again I did not know diddly squat about the LT5 a couple years ago (some say I still do not know diddly squat)

[HAWAIIZR-1]

Originally Posted by vilant

I was going to recharge my A/C myself. For $20 you can get yourself certified, to remove and recharge, it's an online course http://www.macsw.org/MACS/Section_60...d-27fd9b9153f6.
Not sure what the rules are in Japan but here in the U.S. this is all you need to do it legally. There's other Youtube videos and online courses to learn more, along with your FSM. Why pay someone you don't know, when you could spend roughly the same amount and learn yourself? You can't trust anyone more than yourself. The most expensive part is the equipment, but you will own it and always have it.

Thanks for the info and something to consider. Some things are best left to experts too, but only if you can find the right shop/person to trust.

[-=Jeff=-]

Originally Posted by vilant

I was going to recharge my A/C myself. For $20 you can get yourself certified, to remove and recharge, it's an online course http://www.macsw.org/MACS/Section_60...d-27fd9b9153f6.
Not sure what the rules are in Japan but here in the U.S. this is all you need to do it legally. There's other Youtube videos and online courses to learn more, along with your FSM. Why pay someone you don't know, when you could spend roughly the same amount and learn yourself? You can't trust anyone more than yourself. The most expensive part is the equipment, but you will own it and always have it.

I took my 609 Cert 2 years ago.. It is also open book at least when I took it.. fairly easy test to take

[Jagdpanzer]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

(yep...with Headers attached)

Is there any special trick to doing that?
and what headers are you using?

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by Jagdpanzer

Is there any special trick to doing that?
and what headers are you using?

Yep.....there is a trick or two
The LT5 has to be tilted to the rear considerably and the LT5 has to be prevented from rolling from side to side.
Leave the Fuel Rails, Plenum, and Bell Housing OFF untill after the LT5 is installed in the ZR1.

SW Offroad Headers. As you know it is difficult to install headers with LT5 in the ZR1. With engine out I was able to install 14 of the 16 header bolts with locks (on each Header) in just a few minutes.

1. You definitely need a load leveler (to UNLEVEL or tilt the LT5 to the rear).
2. You CANNOT use the standard lift eyes for the LT5 because as you load UNLEVEL (Tilt engine to the rear) the engine rotates if you lift LT5 on diagonals.
3. You have to lift with nylon straps around Flywheel (rear) and around Harmonic Balancer (front). Actually around more stuff on front.
4. You have to remove the A/C Temperature sensor cover (passenger side firewall) and Wiper Motor (Drivers side firewall).
5. You DO NOT have to remove the hood and the ZR1 can sit on the level.

A/C Temp Sensor........................Wiper Motor.............Do NOT use standard Lift Eyes installing LT5 with Headers



Installing Headers
Installing Engine In ZR1
Lifting The LT5