Update on my hi-miler Z project

[VetteMed]

Tom, I haven't yet tried cleaning the contacts nor applying any dielectric grease. I guess that will be my next step if there's no improvement.

Thanks
Andrew

[Kb7tif]

Well I found out with my system it does not take much to make the actuators bind when they turn, I had several good actuators to swap around and still threw codes. What i finally did was I took out the rubber washer in the actuator (for giggles) and Voila no codes.

What I did was cut a 5MM slice of wood on my table saw and used that as a reference. If the bolts on top are torqued correctly the distance is exactly 5mm. I know this If the actuators dont just drop into place, and there is any problems aligning or forcing the spring clips to lock them in place, system is NOT happy.
I replaced all the gears and didn't even need new actuators just reused the old one (these are stout pieces) Got it all working with no codes then the shocks started to wear and got codes again, Said the &^%* with it took out the BulB on info center the rest is history.

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by Kb7tif

Well I found out with my system it does not take much to make the actuators bind when they turn, I had several good actuators to swap around and still threw codes. What i finally did was I took out the rubber washer in the actuator (for giggles) and Voila no codes.

Good to know - I'll try that if I hit a wall with other options.

[VetteMed]

Relocated the amp today, it was getting way too hot in the storage compartment, so it's now mounted behind the driver's seat.



I also used some open-cell foam to pad the console lid, and take out some of the wrinkles in the Redlinegoods.com console cover.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by VetteMed

Good to know - I'll try that if I hit a wall with other options.

Andrew when I changed my shocks the first time all I saw all these codes as well. The shock height to Actuator is critical. I found sucess after letting the new shock bushing sit with the weight of the car for a few days as they were new as well and needed to compress a little. Using a wrench in the slot on the shock threaded shaft is important in order to prevent the shock stud from turning inside the body of the shock. I adjusted the height on all four corners to 1.5 threads above the top of the nut. Worked like a champ. No cost solution giver her a try. Daryll

[VetteMed]

Originally Posted by GOLDCYLON

Andrew when I changed my shocks the first time all I saw all these codes as well. The shock height to Actuator is critical. I found sucess after letting the new shock bushing sit with the weight of the car for a few days as they were new as well and needed to compress a little. Using a wrench in the slot on the shock threaded shaft is important in order to prevent the shock stud from turning inside the body of the shock. I adjusted the height on all four corners to 1.5 threads above the top of the nut. Worked like a champ. No cost solution giver her a try. Daryll

Thanks Daryll! I will definitely give that a try if the problem persists.

[GOLDCYLON]

Originally Posted by VetteMed

Thanks Daryll! I will definitely give that a try if the problem persists.

Looks real good Andrew a true labor of love.

[VetteMed]

Today, I had to take the dash apart once again, to diagnose inoperative cruise control. Idiot that I am, I forgot to plug the connector back into the cruise control module the last time I had everything all apart.

I also ran new vacuum lines to/from the cruise servo, since the originals were dryrotted badly.

While I had the dash pad off, I removed the "tone generator" module once again. It's very inconsistent in its activity, sometimes it will work, most of the time not. I took the circuit board out of the case, and heated up most of the major solder joints. Seems to work much more consistently now.

Yesterday I had the rear hatch and the side windows tinted. Rear hatch done in one piece, took the installer 3 tries, and it's still not perfect - he says he can fix any issues after the sun has cured it for a few days, but I have my doubts. I'll bring it back to the shop next week, and I have a feeling he's going to need to redo the whole thing.

Rear diff leak seems to be slowing down, maybe the seal is wearing in? Engine oil leak is still pretty persistent, and I'm procrastinating in getting underneath to try to find it. Dipstick is almost a quart low, in only about 400 miles since I topped it up.

[sammy]

you might want to take a look at the oil filter housing and see if that might be your oil leak . i found that to be leaking on both my 90 and 92

[Jim Nolan]

The oil line to the oil cooler on my '92. If it is leaking good luck. Not hard to change but, there is no way to avoid a mess, no matter how neat you are.