WTB: Camshaft spocket bolts

Does anyone have for sale or a source for stock bolts? I tried to buy the upgraded ones from Marc and ordered 2 months ago; he said he still won't have any for another 2 months.

Thanks,

Great, looks like we are going to get the shaft from ARP for a while. I need a couple of sets as well.

Thanks Jeff........it is looking like it will be a lot longer than anticipated to get this LT5 back together. Waiting on 4 bolts...........................

Dynomite,

If I were you I would place the order with Marc H or see if you can be on a list. If you don't need them soon (in the next few months) maybe no issue. I hear you on the upgrades and I gotta figure out when to stop.

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I sent Marc an e-mail this afternoon telling him to sent me the 4 bolts he was going to send you

Actually...I am kidding you...but I did send Marc an e-mail regarding those bolts (his are "High Quality" over standard issue)

I also asked Marc about those J37305, J37326, and J38098 top end tools for timing as the phone number for Bill on this registry no longer exists

The cost of those three tools from Hands on Tools is not to be believed

I got my stock exhaust removed today and had a time trying to slide the whole welded assembly out from under the Z in between my floor jacks

The installation of the SW exhaust will go a lot better since they are in several sections. SW Headers installation tomorrow

And...yes...I am having more fun than one should have customizing the Z....so time is not an issue .

Sounds like you are making a lot of progress. I'll PM you Bill's phone number.

[flyin ryan]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Just to confirm what you said in this thread regarding camshaft sprocket bolts. Marc Haibeck says it will be two months for the camshaft sprocket bolts

Is there any other source for these bolts

Marc also said he made his own J37305 chain pre-tensioner tool and J37326 Timing pins.

Marc did not use J38098 crankshaft locator but used a piston stop to find TDC and then a degree wheel to find 51 deg before TDC which I assume is where the crankshaft locator stops the crankshaft. That process is described here http://www.zr1specialist.com/HAT%20Web/articles/timing_camshafts.htm

I am thinking the piston stop method might be a bit more exact (a deg or two) than using the crankshaft locator but the former method is a bit more complex.

At the moment I prefer the simpler method ShawnZR-1 suggested in the following thread http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...t=10288&page=8

For which Marc says Bill Kirchhofer (I now have his phone number) has the tools if I can find him

The Crankshaft locator is not a must have, do the 51°BTDC & look in the side of the block where the tool would go to verify, can see the notch in the crankshaft quite easily. The tool is O.K., but I find the 51° deal to be just as easy, I have dial indicators going anyways , just the way I like doing it. Just saying don't get hung up waiting for that tool if you can't get your hands on it.

[flyin ryan]

Originally Posted by Dynomite

Well....I did it......just as in above post I located 51 deg BTDC.......I checked the valves on number 1 cylinder and they were both closed with the exhaust to open next which means compression stroke so I do have 51 deg BTDC on compression. I then aligned my 51 deg BTDC mark with the zero mark on timing plate (51 deg BTDC on number 1 cylinder)...and guess what

I checked holes where cam pins are suppose to be.....PERFECT without even having to drop a cam pin in....but then I do not have my chain manual tensioners in place but the method works perfectly as cited above.

I would go with visual on those cam pin holes because with a pin installed there is play between pin and hole and the cam might be turned a bit one way or other (which you can see without the cam pin in place but cannot see with the cam pin installed). I do not need J37326 Timing pins and I do not need J38098 crankshaft locator

Keep in mind the cam shafts rotate 180 deg everytime the crankshaft rotates 360 deg. Also, the cam shafts are very small in diameter compared to the pully on front of the engine so a couple deg on the pully you will not see the cam shaft pin hole move hardly at all.

I think this has got to be within 1 deg as the timing marks on the timing plate are within 1 deg. My original mark on the front pully was exactly TDC on number 1 cylinder (you have to make sure you are on compression) when aligned with the "0" mark on the timing plate.

If this is all wrong.....I have to hit the books

Sounds like you've got it figured . BTW, when I posted earlier, I wasn't talking about doing it 'In the Car', but maybe you can....

Got my camshaft sprocket bolts today from Marc H. I ordered an extra set and hope I won't need them by getting it right the first time.........

Thanks anyway!

Originally Posted by Dynomite

I assume you are installing new timing chain tensioners? If not...make sure you reset them after you remove them I am still trying to figure out exactly how to reset them

I took the LH (Drivers side) chain tensioner apart (pulling on the cylinder and piston with both hands) making sure I did not put any marks on the piston or cylinder with any tools. I ended up with a cylinder, piston, spring, and two spring clips.

I moved the larger clip from the wide groove to the narrow groove on the piston toward the outside end of the piston (This larger spring clip was in the wider groove when I took it apart).

I then installed the piston into the cylinder (coil spring first) compressing the larger spring clip into the narrow groove so it goes inside the cylinder. It snapped into place inside the cylinder. But...there is maybe 5 or 6 rings inside the cylinder and the clip snapped in the first ring only.

Do I keep compressing the piston into the cylinder a bit more and will the spring clip snap into the next ring inside the cylinder? Do I then keep compressing the piston into the cylinder untill maybe 1/4 inch of the piston is showing outside the cylinder?

There is a smaller clip on the lower end of the piston also which I did not move. Does this stay in place on the end? Or ....was I suppose to move that to the same groove as the bigger spring clip?

Yes, I am and figured I better do this right. I did end up buying the new design for the right side too. I'm glad Jeff posted that video for you on the other post and sure does make it look easy........I'm sure it is not. Jeff makes everything look easy............

[Dynomite]

Originally Posted by HAWAIIZR-1

Yes, I am and figured I better do this right. I did end up buying the new design for the right side too. I'm glad Jeff posted that video for you on the other post and sure does make it look easy........I'm sure it is not. Jeff makes everything look easy............

Well...I was about to buy a new tensioner for $250 but thought I would try resetting the old one as it looks pretty good. I am not sure what I am doing at the moment

Yes....Jeff (Jeffvette) helps all of us out a lot and that is MOST appreciated.