Replaced battery, now will not run

[FormulaReed]

About 2 weeks ago, I replaced the TPS, plugged in my scanner and set the TPS voltage. Car was running good. Went for a drive, turned her off and on and everything was fine.

The forecast was calling for some snow and I knew that I would not be driving the corvette for awhile so I took the battery out and plugged it into a float charger.....

Well, today the weather was great and I wanted to take the vette for a spin, nut when I put the battery back in it cranked fine, started up but than died. I tried a few more times and got the same thing. I can smell fuel, so I think it's getting fuel.

Any ideas? It wants to run, but it turns off like the ignition is being cut.

My car is a 1991.

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[RussMcB]

Sorry no one smarter than me has responded yet. :-)

That rings a bell, like maybe one fuel pump cuts off after starting?

Maybe the FSM has a troubleshooting guide to help identify the problem.

Good luck. I'm sure someone will be along shortly who can offer a better answer.

[Paul Workman]

Originally Posted by FormulaReed

About 2 weeks ago, I replaced the TPS, plugged in my scanner and set the TPS voltage. Car was running good. Went for a drive, turned her off and on and everything was fine.

The forecast was calling for some snow and I knew that I would not be driving the corvette for awhile so I took the battery out and plugged it into a float charger.....

Well, today the weather was great and I wanted to take the vette for a spin, nut when I put the battery back in it cranked fine, started up but than died. I tried a few more times and got the same thing. I can smell fuel, so I think it's getting fuel.

Any ideas? It wants to run, but it turns off like the ignition is being cut.

My car is a 1991.

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What does the scanner tell you?

Start with the scanner and verify too, FUEL AIR SPARK and get back to us!

[viper107]

could just be that the idle air motor has to relearn itself from the battery being out of the car(unhooked)

[ZWILD1]

I don't think the battery being out should have affected it. I have had a battery that not used more than every 2 weeks needed to be charged. I charged the battery again and then left both terminals off for just over a month. This past Monday I went to our local Chevrolet dealer and bought a new Delco battery. Hooked it up and the car started right up no issues.

[FormulaReed]

I got some time today to work on my z, and here's what happened.

I hooked up my scanner tools and tried to start the car. It did exactly the same thing, it would crank over, fire and die.

No codes were showing, the first picture is what the scanner was reading. The iac position was reading 150 steps and the desired idle speed is 3187.5 rpm. I tried to start it a few times but it started to smell like un-burned fuel and I did not want to back fire the car and damage something.

I went back in my house to check if the iac position was right. I went back to my car about 10min later and tried again.

This time it started but was misfiring bad, but kept running. I snapped the 2nd photo when that was happening. No check engine light.

It settled down and idled fine. Sounded good. I reved it a few times and it responded like it should. Sounded good and was acting like it wanted to go for a drive. I snapped the 3rd photo during that.

What do you all think? Is my iac sticking and causing it to not start? It never threw a check engine light the whole time. Should I replace the iac?

Thanks in advance.Screenshot_2020-02-09-12-33-57.jpegScreenshot_2020-02-09-12-48-35.jpegScreenshot_2020-02-09-13-01-05.jpeg

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[Ccmano]

So the first one was with the engine not running and the two other were with the engine running? Notice the battery voltage on the first one. 11.4 volts. The voltage is higher on the second two because the alternator is charging while running. That battery is either bad or seriously discharged. Low voltage batteries can cause a these weird things. Step one is get a volt meter and get a reading on the battery without the engine running (static) if it’s anything less than 12.4 volts the battery either needs a serious charge or it’s bad. A float charger won’t do. Once you have a good battery in place try starting the car again see what happens.
H

[FormulaReed]

Correct, the first one is when it would not start. The battery is under a year old and was charged the first time this happened. I think it was low from trying to start it last week, not chargeing it this week, and i had given it a few tries before I did the screen shot.

After I posted it went for a drive and all semed well. Turned it off and on a few times, and it acted ok.

I want to figure out why it was not starting though.

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[Ccmano]

Originally Posted by FormulaReed

Correct, the first one is when it would not start. The battery is under a year old and was charged the first time this happened. I think it was low from trying to start it last week, not chargeing it this week, and i had given it a few tries before I did the screen shot.

After I posted it went for a drive and all semed well. Turned it off and on a few times, and it acted ok.

I want to figure out why it was not starting though.

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Just because the battery in it is under a year old doesn’t mean its good. Now that you’ve driven it the alternator has charged it some and brought back some of the charge. It may keep starting for a while until the battery is discharged again. The battery is the first thing that has to be eliminated in determining a starting issue. Based on those voltages your battery is still suspect. Take it to an Autozone store or where you bought it and have a capacity test done. If it’s good get a solid charge on it. Then if the issue continues you can keep looking. Granted there are several known issues that can cause this but without eliminating the battery first you may be spending a lot of time, money and frustration for nothing. It’s a step by step process, the battery is step one.
H

[FormulaReed]

Got it. I will take the battery to the place I got it from and see what they say.

Thanks

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