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Old 12-31-2018   #1
Subfixer
 
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Default Starting the mods

First mod I'd like to attack will be headers, so here are the questions...


Will Stainless Works Headers/Cats bolt up to the stock exhaust?
I want to keep the nice "quiet" stock exhaust.


I'm pretty good with a wrench, but is header install a one man job?


I thought I read somewhere that there are 2 different size resonator internal ID's.


Which years had the larger internal ID?


Mark's chip is also in the plan, but the top end porting will have to wait until next year. Maybe by that time I'll have saved enough for a 415...


Enough questions for now.
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Old 01-01-2019   #2
secondchance
 
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Default Re: Starting the mods

SS works header will bot up to stock exhaust.

Can be installed by one person. Removing and reinstalling exhaust may be challenging.

I think 93 and later Zs have larger resonator internal diameter.
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Old 01-01-2019   #3
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Default Re: Starting the mods

The toughest part of the header job is getting the OEM exhaust manifolds and associated emissions hardware out. I’ve done several by myself. It’s tight especially on the passenger side. If your patient and take your time is pretty straight forward. Removing the engine mount nuts and K members and lifting the engine slightly helps a lot. Inspect the engine mounts while your in there dollars to doughnuts one or both are broken. The 90-92 exhausts had a restricted resonator. If your keeping the stock exhaust swap that out for a later one, x pipe or Dynomax Ultraflow Welded X resonator. Exhaust system fabrication to some degree is unavoidable when your doing headers.
Have fun.
H
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Last edited by Ccmano; 01-01-2019 at 12:11 PM.
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Old 01-01-2019   #4
Vette73
 
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Default Re: Starting the mods

A 415 build will cost more than what you paid for the car....I think I saw that Vettes Drs.wanted like $22,000 for a ZR-1 build ...Better off contacting Pete, Haibeck or evolution motorsports if you want to build HP...
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Old 01-01-2019   #5
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Default Re: Starting the mods

If I had the bucks I’d be doing Pete’s 391...
H
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Ported Intake, Degreed Cams, OBX Headers & Exhaust, Fidanza FW, Secondary Delete, Custom tune, C6 GS Wheels. Sold
08 C6 Z51 Crystal Red Metallic Sold Vararam Intake, Tune, Sold
05 C6 Z51 Red/Black Sold
90'ZR-1 #1723 Black/Gray Sold but not forgotten
91' Z51 L98 White Vert. My First, you always remember your first. Sold.
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Old 01-01-2019   #6
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Default Re: Starting the mods

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ccmano View Post
The toughest part of the header job is getting the OEM exhaust manifolds and associated emissions hardware out. I’ve done several by myself. It’s tight especially on the passenger side. If your patient and take your time is pretty straight forward. Removing the engine mount nuts and K members and lifting the engine slightly helps a lot. Inspect the engine mounts while your in there dollars to doughnuts one or both are broken. The 90-92 exhausts had a restricted resonator. If your keeping the stock exhaust swap that out for a later one, x pipe or Dynomax Ultraflow Welded X resonator. Exhaust system fabrication to some degree is unavoidable when your doing headers.
Have fun.
H

Everything is tight in there...…..
What other emissions hardware gets removed? AIR plumbing? Can I keep that stuff?
I've been looking for a stock replacement 93-95 resonator, but they seem to be non-obtainable. Hopefully something like the Dynomax will keep the "drone" out.
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1992 ZR1 #442, 2 tops, White, White, Haibeck 415, 3.90 gear, Coilovers
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2021 Audi Q3, 2.0T, 8 spd Tiptronic, Navarro Blue metallic, Pearl Beige
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Old 01-01-2019   #7
-=Jeff=-
 
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Default Re: Starting the mods

when do you need the 93-95 resonator. I am quite sure I still have one, however I will not be able to get at it for a while.. due to a medical issue with my right foot..
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Old 01-01-2019   #8
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Default Re: Starting the mods

It’s really the air injection plumbing mostly. It runs under the engine to the passenger side. You can also remove the air pump in the driver side well next to the radiator. Good spot for an oil catch can when the air pump is out. I think Dominic (Xfirez51) is (or was) running the Dynomax resonator. Keep in mind stock pipes are 2.75” diameter, an unusual size. Most aftermarket exhaust items are either 2.5 or 3.0”s. Requires some adaptation. Unless your good at welding it’s best to let an exhaust shop do it. I’m a terrible welder. I usually cut all the pieces, fit everything together, spot weld it in place and let a shop do the final welding.
H
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90'ZR-1 #1461 Red/Black
Ported Intake, Degreed Cams, OBX Headers & Exhaust, Fidanza FW, Secondary Delete, Custom tune, C6 GS Wheels. Sold
08 C6 Z51 Crystal Red Metallic Sold Vararam Intake, Tune, Sold
05 C6 Z51 Red/Black Sold
90'ZR-1 #1723 Black/Gray Sold but not forgotten
91' Z51 L98 White Vert. My First, you always remember your first. Sold.
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Old 01-01-2019   #9
EvanZR1
 
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Default Re: Starting the mods

I second the vote for a 391 from Pete. Very, very happy with mine, and the best $/HP you can get from an engine build. Honestly though, if your engine doesn’t need a rebuild, your best route is headers and ported top end.
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Old 01-01-2019   #10
Subfixer
 
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Default Re: Starting the mods

Quote:
Originally Posted by -=Jeff=- View Post
when do you need the 93-95 resonator. I am quite sure I still have one, however I will not be able to get at it for a while.. due to a medical issue with my right foot..


Will not be needed until sometime in the spring. Unheated garage up here, so I'll wait for milder weather before taking things apart.
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1992 ZR1 #442, 2 tops, White, White, Haibeck 415, 3.90 gear, Coilovers
2018 Audi RS5, 2.9 V6 Twin Turbo, Auto, Black, Black
2021 Audi Q3, 2.0T, 8 spd Tiptronic, Navarro Blue metallic, Pearl Beige
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