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#1 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mystic CT
Posts: 2,625
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Winter project: powder coat top end
Can the left side cam cover be removed and reinstalled without disconnecting the AC lines to the compressor? I know about moving the brake master cylinder etc. Any tips and tricks? Thanks! Last edited by Mystic ZR-1; 11-13-2014 at 07:08 PM. Reason: ... |
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#2 |
![]() Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 2,169
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Yes just unbolt the AC compressor and move it out of the way some say it is easier if you remove the brake bosster also. . On the right if you look close part of the heater box is removable also.
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Steve 1990 Steel Blue/Black #2355 1990 Red/Red #1473 1991 Quasar /Black #118 Sold 1991 Turquoise/Black #766 Parted Out 1993 Yellow/White #179 Sold 1990 Black/Gray #1361 Headers/4:10s Sold |
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#3 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mystic CT
Posts: 2,625
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That makes sense, didn't occur to me to just move it out of the way
once the plenum is off. ![]() Thanks! |
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#4 | |
![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Dakota/California
Posts: 3,807
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You do not necessarily need to remove the Brake Master Cylinder but does help to remove the C-Frame from Transmission so you can tilt/lower the engine. See Item #1 Removing Cam Covers (Engine In Car) for Inspections of Camshafts
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Left Clickable links ![]() -Solutions- LT5 Modifications/Rebuild Tricks Low Mileage ZR-1 Restoration 1990 Corvette (L98) Modifications LT5 Eliminated Systems LT5 Added Systems LT5/ZR-1 Fluids 1995 LT5 SPECIFIC TOP END REBUILD TRICKS Last edited by Dynomite; 11-14-2014 at 07:34 AM. |
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#5 |
![]() Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Ledyard,CT
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#6 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Mystic CT
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#7 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Murrieta, CA
Posts: 240
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If I were to do it my approach would be to leave to brake booster alone. Your time and fussing around under the dash will be considerable with R & R. Like Clint said... drop the exhaust, drop the C beam and lower the trans enough to gain access to the rear of the motor. Make sure you have a good torx setup and a sure way to apply pressure down on the cam cover bolts before attempting to unscrew them. I would also soak them for hours with the best loosening agent you can come up with... opinions will vary on what to use. Take your time and good luck with it. A nice powder coated engine is a very gratifying project imho.
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91 ZR-1 #661 Watsons, 3" exhaust, Borlas... Hurst, 4.11s, Samco, RD radiator, gel coated motor... turquise / black |
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#8 |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: San Diego Ca
Posts: 152
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I have never done this but got it from a good source. if you take out the motor mount bolt one at a time & jack the motor up with a piece of wood you can access all the torx bolts!!!
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#9 |
![]() Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Murrieta, CA
Posts: 240
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You only have to much room to go up. It seems you might end up pinching some things.
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91 ZR-1 #661 Watsons, 3" exhaust, Borlas... Hurst, 4.11s, Samco, RD radiator, gel coated motor... turquise / black |
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#10 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Squires (near Ava MO in the Mark Twain N'tl Forest) - Missouri
Posts: 6,466
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Likewise... I think it was Jeff Flint that recommended that method, but removing the heater shroud cover is required to allow the motor to be tipped toward the right, IIRC. Maybe some day... Bob G has one of the prettiest powder coats I've seen, if you like silver. It looks (to me) like a tiny silver metal flake. Really nice!
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